Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Borshch: The Beating Heart

Updated June 12, 2026

Borshch in its real plurality: the red beet borshch soured with beet zakwas, the spring zeleny borshch of sorrel and egg, the chilled summer kholodnyk, the goose-broth Poltava pot, the white Carpathian ferment, and the southern fish borshch of river and sea. One dish, many arguments.

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Chernihivskyi Borshch (чернігівський борщ, summer borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Chernihivskyi Borshch (чернігівський борщ, summer borshch)

A northern summer borshch should taste like the garden leaned over the pot: beet-crimson, bean-thick, sharpened by tart apple, with courgette softening into the broth.

Poltavskyi Borshch (полтавський борщ, goose-broth borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Poltavskyi Borshch (полтавський борщ, goose-broth borshch)

Goose fat beads gold on a beet-crimson surface, and soft halushky swell in the pot like little promises. This is Poltava's borshch, rich, sour, and built for a full table.

Halytskyi Borshch (галицький борщ, beet-kvass borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Halytskyi Borshch (галицький борщ, beet-kvass borshch)

This western borshch is not thick. It is ruby-clear, sour from beet kvass, sweet from slow roots, and clean enough that people in Halychyna drink it as much as eat it.

Borshch (борщ, red beet soup) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Borshch (борщ, red beet soup)

Beets hit slow-sweated zasmazhka and the broth goes dark ruby, sour from beet zakwas, sweet from bone and garden, thick enough for the spoon to stand up straight.

Khersonskyi Borshch (херсонський борщ, catfish borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Khersonskyi Borshch (херсонський борщ, catfish borshch)

The Dnipro feeds this borshch, not the barn: beet-crimson broth sharpened with fermented tomato, then poured over baked som, catfish, rich enough to make meat unnecessary.

Hutsulskyi Bilyi Borshch (гуцульський білий борщ, Hutsul white borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Hutsulskyi Bilyi Borshch (гуцульський білий борщ, Hutsul white borshch)

White where the lowland pot runs red, this Carpathian borshch is sharp from oat sour, sweet from white beet, and finished with dill-green brightness.

Kholodnyk (холодник, chilled beet borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Kholodnyk (холодник, chilled beet borshch)

The shocking thing is the color: cold beet-crimson soup, sharpened with beet kvass and softened with soured milk, eaten when the kitchen is too hot to light.

Hrybnyi Borshch (грибний борщ, mushroom borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Hrybnyi Borshch (грибний борщ, mushroom borshch)

Dried porcini stain the pot almost black before the beets turn it crimson. This is fasting borshch with no apology in it: deep, sour, dill-green, and rich without a bone.

Pivdennyi Rybnyi Borshch (південний рибний борщ, southern fish borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Pivdennyi Rybnyi Borshch (південний рибний борщ, southern fish borshch)

Where eel once swam, the southern rivers left us a beet-red fish borshch, lean and bright, soured with fermented tomato and finished with a zasmazhka that refuses to disappear into the pot.

Kholodnyi Zeleny Borshch (холодний зелений борщ, cold green sorrel borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Kholodnyi Zeleny Borshch (холодний зелений борщ, cold green sorrel borshch)

Sorrel turns the broth sharp and green, then the cold smetana softens it. This is summer borshch for a table under leaves, tart enough to wake you properly.

Bessarabskyi Borshch (бессарабський борщ, fish borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Bessarabskyi Borshch (бессарабський борщ, fish borshch)

The catch goes into the pan before it ever meets the pot, so Danube fish stays whole in a tomato-red broth sour enough to wake the table.

Mariupolskyi Borshch (маріупольський борщ, goby borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Mariupolskyi Borshch (маріупольський борщ, goby borshch)

Small Azov gobies go into the pan first, crisp-edged and sweet, then slip into beet-crimson borshch so the sea seasons the whole pot quietly.

Zeleny Borshch (зелений борщ, sorrel spring soup) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Zeleny Borshch (зелений борщ, sorrel spring soup)

The first spoonful tastes like the garden waking up: tart sorrel, soft potato, yellow egg, cold smetana, and dill so green it argues with winter.

Kholodnyk na Kefiri (холодник на кефірі, kefir cold borshch) - Chef Lesia

Chef Lesia

Kholodnyk na Kefiri (холодник на кефірі, kefir cold borshch)

The beet bleeds into the kefir and the whole bowl turns raspberry-pink, cold enough to fog the spoon, sharp with cucumber, scallion, and dill.

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