Chapter XIII

Soups

Soups are divided into two leading classes, viz.:—

1. Clear soups, which include plain and garnished consommés.

2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.

A third class, which is independent of either of the above, inasmuch as it forms part of plain, household cookery, embraces vegetable soups and Garbures or No. 268, Gratins soups. But in important dinners—by this I mean rich dinners—only the first two classes are recognised.

When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and the other thick. If only one is to be served, it may be either clear or thick, in which case the two kinds are represented alternately at different meals.

In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of procedure for consommés and thick soups; I explained how the latter might be converted from plain purées into veloutés or creams, or from veloutés into creams; and all that now remains is to reveal the recipes proper to each of those soups.

Remarks.—In the course of the recipes for consommés, given hereafter, the use of Royales (Nos. No. 206, Ordinary Royale to No. 213, Various Royales) and of Quenelles, variously prepared (Nos. No. 193, Chicken Forcemeat with Panada and Butter to No. 195, Fine Chicken Forcemeat or “Mousseline” and No. 205, Forcemeat Balls or Quenelles), will often be enjoined. For the preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will have to refer to the numbers indicated.

The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calculated to be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and the quantity of Royales is always given in so many dariole-moulds, which contain about one-eighth pint, or baba-moulds, which hold about one-fifth pint.

Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not necessarily have been effected in these moulds, for very small “Charlotte” moulds would do quite as well. But I had recourse to the particular utensils mentioned above, in order that there might be no sort of doubt as to the exact quantity of royale it would be necessary to prepare for any one of the soups.

Clear Soups and Garnished Consommés

Special Cold Consommé for Suppers

Remarks Relative to the Consommés.—I gave the recipes of these consommés in Part I. of this work (No. 6, Special Consommés for Suppers), and shall now, therefore, limit myself to the following remarks, which are of paramount importance:—

1. These consommés must be perfect in limpidness and quality.

2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet not too pronounced.

3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the best possible quality. Rather than make use of inferior wines, the presence of which in the soup would tend to depreciate its quality, completely discard wine flavourings.

4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.

Thick Soups

In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.

With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer to that part of the book for them.

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