Game Glaze

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •4-quart (3.8 L) wide, heavy saucepan
• •2-quart (1.9 L) heavy saucepan
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Muslin or cheesecloth
• •Shallow skimming spoon
• •Heatproof spatula
• •Heatproof measuring jug
• •Tablespoon-size silicone freezer mold

Instructions

1. 1

   Inspect the stock

   Lift away every trace of solid fat from the cold Brown Game Stock (No. 8), then pour the stock into a wide 4-quart (3.8 L) heavy saucepan. It should tremble like a soft jelly when cold, evidence of the gelatin that will give the glace de gibier its body. If it is liquid but deeply flavored, you may still proceed, though the yield will be smaller and the reduction longer. Do not season it.

   A broad pan accelerates the first reduction, but leave generous headroom. Stock rises as it reaches the boil, and cleaning the stove contributes nothing to the sauce.
2. 2

   Begin the reduction

   Bring the stock to a boil over medium-high heat, then lower it to a lively, controlled simmer. Skim away foam and beads of fat as they gather, using a shallow spoon without stirring the sediment back through the liquid. Reduce until about 1 quart (950 ml) remains, roughly 45 to 75 minutes depending on the width of the pan. The surface should move steadily, not thrash against the sides.

3. 3

   Strain and transfer

   Following the staged reduction used for Meat Glaze (No. 15), pour the reduced stock through a fine sieve lined with damp muslin or cheesecloth into a clean 2-quart (1.9 L) heavy saucepan. Do not press on the trapped solids; pressure forces cloudiness and stale-tasting sediment into the glaze. This single transfer replaces the brigade's succession of smaller stewpans because the home batch is already modest, while preserving the filtration the original method requires.

4. 4

   Wane the heat

   Return the strained stock to a moderate simmer and reduce it to about 2 cups (475 ml). Lower the heat again, then continue at the gentlest simmer your stove can hold. Stir occasionally with a heatproof spatula, reaching into the corners, but leave the dried ring on the sides of the pan where it is; scraping it down can introduce scorched flavors. Watch the pan continuously once the volume approaches 1¼ cups (300 ml), because the reduction quickens sharply at the end.

5. 5

   Test the glaze

   Dip a cold metal spoon into the glaze and lift it out. The glace de gibier is ready when it evenly veneers the spoon in a dark, glossy film rather than running away in watery tracks, usually at about 1 cup (240 ml). If it suddenly turns tarry or clings in heavy sticky ridges, lift the pan from the heat and stir in hot water 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) at a time until the smooth coating returns. Ça se rattrape. If the bottom catches, immediately pour the clean upper glaze into another pan without scraping, then taste it; the unburnt portion can continue, but genuine bitterness cannot be hidden.

6. 6

   Strain and cool

   Pass the finished glaze through a clean fine sieve into a heatproof measuring jug. Pour it into a shallow container or tablespoon-size freezer molds and cool promptly, uncovered at first, then cover and refrigerate. It will set into a firm, dark jelly when cold. Use it by the teaspoon or tablespoon, melting it into a finished pan sauce, jus, or braise and tasting between additions; glace de gibier gives depth, but it should never announce itself as a separate layer.

Chef Tips

• •Use unsalted Brown Game Stock (No. 8). Reduction concentrates everything without discrimination, and an already salted stock may become unusable before it reaches the spoon-coating stage.
• •Choose heavy stainless steel or a lined copper saucepan with a pale interior. You need to see the color deepen and catch the first sign of sticking; a thin pan or dark nonstick lining conceals both.
• •Begin with 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) of glace de gibier for each cup (240 ml / 240 g) of sauce, let it dissolve, then taste. Add more only if the sauce still lacks game depth.
• •A firm set in the refrigerator is desirable. It proves the glaze carries enough gelatin to lend body and gloss without flour, roux, or cream.
• •If the final yield is greater than 1 cup (240 ml) and the glaze runs from a cold spoon, reduce it further. If the yield is smaller and the glaze is sticky while warm, restore it with a little hot water.

Advance Preparation

• •Brown Game Stock (No. 8) may be made and frozen well ahead. Thaw it completely in the refrigerator so the solid fat can be lifted away cleanly before reduction.
• •Refrigerate the finished glace de gibier in a tightly covered container for up to 5 days, or freeze it in tablespoon portions for up to 3 months.
• •Once frozen solid, transfer the portions to a labeled freezer container. Melt a portion directly into a simmering sauce, then taste before adding another.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 15g)