Aubergines à la Turque

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •4-quart (3.8-litre) heavy saucepan
• •Clip-on frying thermometer or instant-read thermometer
• •Wire rack set over a rimmed sheet pan
• •Long-handled spider or slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Slice and season

   Peel the aubergines completely and trim their stems. Cut each one lengthwise into exactly six even slices, about 6 to 8 mm thick, then match the twelve slices into six pairs of similar size. Season both sides with 1 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper only when the oil is nearly ready. Salt left sitting draws water to the surface, and wet aubergine makes the flour gummy rather than delicate.

2. 2

   Give the first fry

   Pour the frying oil into a heavy saucepan, leaving the pan no more than half full, and heat it to 175°C (350°F). Put the dredging flour in a shallow dish. Flour each aubergine slice lightly, shake it thoroughly, and fry two or three at a time until flexible, tender, and pale gold, about 2 to 3 minutes, turning once. Do not brown them deeply because they must face the oil again. Drain them flat on a wire rack and skim loose flour from the oil. If the first batch drinks oil and turns limp, stop and restore the temperature before continuing; blot those slices, then return them to the hot oil for twenty seconds. Ça se rattrape.

3. 3

   Bind the pairs

   Let the slices cool until they can be handled. Mix the pasteurized raw yolks with about three-quarters of the grated cheese, then add more cheese gradually until the preparation is very firm and holds its shape when the spoon is turned. Spread a compact layer over six slices, leaving a narrow bare border, and cover each with its matching slice. Press gently from the centre outward, scrape away anything forced from the seams, and chill the parcels for 15 minutes. If a pair slides when lifted, separate it, work more of the reserved cheese into its filling, reassemble, and chill again. The firm binding is not scaffolding. It is the dish.

   The finished parcel should lift by one end without the other slice moving. If it behaves like two pieces, it is not ready for the fryer.
4. 4

   Choose the coating

   For the batter finish, whisk the whole egg with ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g) of the cold water and the tablespoon of oil. Add the batter flour and ¼ teaspoon of the salt, whisking only until no dry flour remains. The batter should fall like thick cream and leave an opaque coat on a spoon; loosen it with the reserved water a teaspoon at a time if necessary. For the book's alternate finish, omit the batter. Roll each cold parcel lightly in the remaining dredging flour, coat it thoroughly with the prepared Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), then cover it in the fine dry breadcrumbs. Let a crumbed parcel stand for 5 minutes so its crust grips.

5. 5

   Fry the parcels

   Bring the clean oil to 185°C (365°F), hot enough to set the coat immediately but below its smoke point. Dip one chilled parcel at a time into the batter, cover every seam, let the excess fall away, and lower it into the oil away from you. Fry no more than two at once, turning carefully, until evenly crisp and deep gold, about 3 minutes. The filling at the centre should reach 71°C (160°F). If a seam begins to open, lift the parcel out, let it cool for a minute, patch the gap with thick batter, and fry it again. Ça se rattrape. Drain on the rack and season with the remaining salt.

   Allow the oil to return to 185°C (365°F) between batches. Cool oil gives the batter time to absorb fat before it can become a resisting crust.
6. 6

   Fry parsley and serve

   Turn off the heat and let the oil fall to about 170°C (340°F). Lower the thoroughly dry parsley into the oil in two small batches with a long-handled spider, standing back as it may spit. Fry for 5 to 10 seconds, only until crisp and intensely green, then drain and salt very lightly. Line an oval platter with a clean folded napkin, arrange the aubergine parcels over it, and pile the fried parsley beside them. Serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use a young, firm Gruyère or Comté and grate it just before mixing. Ricotta, fromage blanc, and cream cheese carry too much moisture for this binder; they loosen under heat and allow the slices to part.
• •Choose straight, medium aubergines of similar size. Very round specimens produce tiny end slices and broad middle slices that refuse to pair neatly.
• •The source calls for smoking oil because the coating had to set on contact. Actual smoke means the oil is breaking down, so use a thermometer and hold it at 185°C (365°F). Fidelity lies in the immediate crust, not in alarming the household.
• •Serve these without an added sauce. The yolk-and-cheese centre and very green fried parsley are the intended finish; a dry Crémant alongside supplies all the brightness the plate needs.

Advance Preparation

• •The aubergine slices may receive their first fry up to 6 hours ahead. Cool them completely, refrigerate them between sheets of parchment, and blot away any surface moisture before filling.
• •The filled parcels may be assembled and chilled for up to 2 hours. Keep them covered and cold, but make the batter shortly before the final frying so its coat remains light.
• •Do not complete the second frying ahead. These parcels are at their best during the brief interval when the crust is crisp and the cheese centre remains soft.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 270g)