Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Central Mexican Breads

Updated May 27, 2026

The bread shelf of the central highlands, from CDMX and the State of Mexico to Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Morelos. The daily bolillo and telera, the pulque-leavened breads of Tlaxcala and the wood-fired pan de burro of Tehuacán, the hand-pressed corn tortillas of native Cónico and Chalqueño landraces, the highland wheat tortilla of the Hidalgo Sierra, and the great enriched showpieces: conchas, pan de muerto and rosca de reyes. The nixtamal grammar of the milpa highlands and the wheat that the Franciscans planted beside their convents, on one shelf.

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Rosca de Reyes del Centro de Mexico - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Rosca de Reyes del Centro de Mexico

Central Mexico's Epiphany bread, orange-scented and enriched with butter, crowned with ate, candied fig, and sugar paste, then cut at the table to decide who hosts the tamales.

Pan de Muerto del Valle de México - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Pan de Muerto del Valle de México

CDMX and Estado de México's Día de Muertos bread, an orange-blossom egg loaf shaped with crossed bones, brushed with butter, and buried in sugar for the family altar.

Tortillas de Trigo de la Sierra Hidalguense - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Tortillas de Trigo de la Sierra Hidalguense

Hidalgo's Sierra Alta wheat tortilla is not a northern import. Pulque, manteca de cerdo, and a clay comal give it the tender chew that belongs beside barbacoa de hoyo.

Tortillas de Maíz Blanco Chalqueño - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Tortillas de Maíz Blanco Chalqueño

Estado de México's central-highland tortilla, made from white Chalqueño corn nixtamalized with cal, ground fresh, pressed thin, and cooked on a comal until it puffs.

Tortillas de Maíz Azul Cónico - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Tortillas de Maíz Azul Cónico

Central highland blue corn tortillas made from Cónico landrace maize, cooked with cal, ground to fresh masa, pressed by hand, and puffed on a hot clay comal.

Tlaxcales Tlaxcaltecas - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Tlaxcales Tlaxcaltecas

Tlaxcala's corn cakes, ground from maíz sazón with piloncillo and canela, pressed into triangles, and toasted slowly on a clay comal until the edges smell like a highland market.

Gorditas de Nata Hidalguenses - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Gorditas de Nata Hidalguenses

Hidalgo's sweet comal cakes, built from fresh nata de leche and wheat flour, cooked low and patient until the outside turns golden and the center stays soft.

Cocol de Anís Hidalguense - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Cocol de Anís Hidalguense

Atotonilco el Grande's dark rhomboid roll, sweetened with piloncillo and loud with anise, baked until the sesame catches color and eaten with café de olla, atole, or thick nata.

Conchas de Vainilla y Chocolate - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Conchas de Vainilla y Chocolate

Ciudad de Mexico's panaderia bun, enriched with egg and butter, covered with vanilla and chocolate sugar paste, then scored like a shell before baking soft and golden.

Telera Poblana - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Telera Poblana

Puebla's central-highland telera is a soft, flat wheat roll marked into three sections, built to hold a real torta without tearing, collapsing, or pretending to be a bolillo.

Bolillo Capitalino - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Bolillo Capitalino

Ciudad de Mexico's everyday pan de sal, shaped like a small football, slashed once, baked crisp outside and airy inside for molletes, tortas, and the first bread of the morning.

Pan de Burro de Tehuacan - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Pan de Burro de Tehuacan

Puebla's Tehuacan valley bread, built from wheat flour, piloncillo, manteca de cerdo, and masa madre, stamped with a donkey so it can travel from San Jose Miahuatlan to the mercado.

Pan de Pulque de Tlaxcala - Chef Lupita

Chef Lupita

Pan de Pulque de Tlaxcala

Tlaxcala's fiesta bread from San Juan Totolac, raised by fresh pulque and its xaxtle, sweetened with piloncillo, seeded with sesame, and baked dark in a wood-fired horno.

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