
Chef Juliette
Almond Pudding
Six almond-lined moulds, gently poached until softly risen, with white-wine sabayon scented by orgeat. The lesson is simple and exact: the bain-marie must tremble, never boil.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2536, Soufflé Praline, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Soufflé Pralin rises on a vanilla base scented through with caramelized almonds, then comes to the table tall and tender beneath a crisp scattering of grilled almonds.
Soufflé Pralin (caramel-almond soufflé) teaches that a soufflé cannot hide a rough base. Egg whites give it height, but the base gives every bite its texture, so the finished Pralin (No. 2352) must infuse in warm milk before it meets yolk or white. Stir it dry into the preparation and it stays gritty. That isn't economy, merely disappointment.
The classical pastry station assumed vanilla soufflé preparation and Pralin ready in brigade quantities, with a salamander close at hand for grilling the almonds. At home, four ramekins, one saucepan, and the oven broiler do the same honest work. The prepared brigade mise en place is scaffolding and can go; the milk infusion and careful folding are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
When it is right, the soufflé rises butter-gold above its dish, tender at the centre and fragrant with caramelized almond, while the grilled almonds give the soft crown a crisp finish. Infuse the Pralin until the milk feels smooth, then strain it carefully. That is the one step that matters most.
Soufflé Pralin belongs to the Parisian dining room and the classical pâtisserie repertoire, where hot sweet soufflés travel directly from oven to table. Its Pralin (No. 2352) is the fine caramel-almond powder used in custards, ices, and soufflés, not the pink praline associated with Lyon. The dish shows confectionery entering the hot dessert canon, with caramelized almond first drawn into milk and then lifted by beaten egg whites.
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
softened and divided
Quantity
1/4 cup (60 ml / 50 g)
divided
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 245 g)
Quantity
1
split lengthwise and scraped
Quantity
2 ounces, about 1/2 cup (120 ml / 57 g) Pralin (No. 2352)
Quantity
1/4 cup (60 ml / 30 g)
Quantity
4
separated
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
1/4 cup (60 ml / 25 g)
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttersoftened and divided | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| granulated sugardivided | 1/4 cup (60 ml / 50 g) |
| whole milk | 1 cup (240 ml / 245 g) |
| vanilla beansplit lengthwise and scraped | 1 |
| Pralin | 2 ounces, about 1/2 cup (120 ml / 57 g) Pralin (No. 2352) |
| all-purpose flour | 1/4 cup (60 ml / 30 g) |
| large eggsseparated | 4 |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
| blanched sliced almondsroughly chopped | 1/4 cup (60 ml / 25 g) |
Set an oven rack near the broiler and spread the chopped almonds on a small baking sheet. Broil them for 30 to 90 seconds, watching without looking away, until deep gold at the edges. Transfer them immediately to a cool plate so the hot metal doesn't carry them from toasted to burnt. Move the rack to the lower-middle position and heat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
Use 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the softened butter to coat four straight-sided 6-ounce (180 ml) ramekins, brushing firmly upward from base to rim. Add 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 13 g) of the sugar, turn the dishes until their interiors are evenly coated, and tap out the excess. The butter and sugar give the batter something to climb; patch any bare spots before proceeding.
Put the milk, vanilla seeds and pod, and Pralin (No. 2352) in a saucepan while the milk is still cold, then whisk them together before applying heat. Bring the milk slowly to just below a simmer, whisking often, and hold it there for 2 minutes. Cover, remove from the heat, and infuse for 15 minutes before discarding the vanilla pod and passing the milk through a fine-mesh sieve. The caramel should dissolve and the almond should scent the milk without leaving coarse grit. If it still feels sandy, rewarm it gently, whisk vigorously, and strain it once more. Ça se rattrape.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a clean saucepan over medium-low heat. Stir in the flour and cook this pale roux for 1 minute without letting it brown. Add the warm infused milk in three portions, whisking each smooth before adding the next, then cook for about 2 minutes until the base is thick, glossy, and pulling cleanly from the pan. Cool for 5 minutes, then whisk in the egg yolks one at a time. If a few yolk threads form because the base was too hot, pass it through the sieve while still warm. Let the finished base cool until barely lukewarm.
Put the egg whites and salt in a spotless, dry bowl. Beat until they hold soft peaks, then add the remaining sugar gradually while continuing to beat. Stop when the whites are glossy and hold a medium-firm peak whose tip bends slightly. Dry, clotted whites won't fold gracefully, so stop before they lose their sheen.
Whisk one quarter of the beaten whites into the lukewarm base to loosen it. Fold in half the remaining whites with a broad spatula, cutting through the centre, sweeping along the bottom, and turning the mixture over itself. Add the final whites and fold only until the large streaks disappear. Divide the batter among the ramekins, filling them to within 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the rims. Level the tops, wipe the rims clean, and run a thumb around the inside edge to form a shallow channel that encourages an even rise.
Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and bake for 13 to 15 minutes without opening the oven during the first 11 minutes. The soufflés are ready when they stand well above the rims, their tops are butter-gold, and their centres retain a slight tremble. Carry them directly to the table and strew the grilled chopped almonds over the tops at the last moment. A soufflé waits for nobody, which is part of its charm. À table!
1 serving (about 145g)
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