Soufflé with Filbert

Soufflé aux avelines (hot filbert soufflé) teaches one true thing: lightness begins with a smooth foundation. The milk must take the caramel and hazelnut perfume of the filbert Pralin (No. 2352), then pass through a fine sieve before flour touches it. Leave the smallest grit behind and the finished soufflé will tell on you.

The original entry assumed a pastry pantry already holding finished Pralin (No. 2352), a fine sieve, and hands free to beat whites at the last instant. At home, use that finished referenced preparation, an electric mixer, and one 1.2-liter dish in a thoroughly preheated oven. No saucier or stockpot enters the matter, and no salamander is needed. A brigade's standing mise en place is scaffolding; infusing, straining, folding, and baking without delay are the dish. This version is scaled for four, one cook, one stove, one evening.

When it is right, the crown rises well above the rim, bronze over ivory, with the fragrance of toasted filberts and caramel reaching the table before the spoon does. Take most care over the straining. Once that milk is perfectly smooth, the rest is disciplined folding and the nerve to leave the oven door closed.