Souffléd Pudding à la Reine

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.5 litre (6 cup) smooth-sided tube mould with a fixed bottom
• •Deep roasting tin large enough to hold the mould
• •Medium heavy-bottomed saucepan
• •Electric hand mixer or stand mixer
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Butter and coat mould

   Heat the oven to 325°F (160°C) with a rack in the lower middle, and put a kettle of water on to heat. Use half the softened butter to coat every part of a 1.5 litre smooth-sided tube mould, including the tube and its seam. Chill it for 5 minutes, then apply the remaining butter over the first coat. Combine roughly one-quarter of the chopped pistachios and macaroon crumbs, scatter them into the mould, and turn it until the base, sides, and tube are covered. Tap out only the loose excess. Heavy buttering is structural here, not decoration.

   A dark, intricately patterned Bundt tin clings to the nut layers and hides the pudding's clean shape. A plain metal tube mould gives the best release.
2. 2

   Cook the panade

   Warm the milk with half the granulated sugar until the sugar dissolves and the milk is very hot. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat, stir in the flour, and cook for 90 seconds without allowing it to colour. Whisk in the hot milk gradually, then stir over medium-low heat until the panade, the cooked flour-and-milk base, becomes smooth, glossy, and thick enough to pull cleanly from the sides of the pan. Remove it from the heat and beat in the vanilla and salt. If the panade has lumps, whisk it firmly and press it through a sieve now; once the eggs enter, rough handling costs lift. Cool for about 5 minutes, then beat in the four yolks one at a time.

3. 3

   Fold the soufflé

   Whip the four egg whites in a perfectly clean bowl until they hold soft peaks. Add the remaining pudding sugar gradually and continue whipping only until the whites are glossy and make a softly hooked peak. Dry, clotted whites don't fold cleanly. Stir one-third of the whites into the warm panade to loosen it, then fold in the remainder in two additions with broad turns from the bottom of the bowl. Stop as soon as no large white streaks remain. A few fine streaks are safer than a perfectly uniform but deflated mixture.

4. 4

   Build the layers

   Mix the remaining pistachios and macaroon crumbs together and divide them into two portions. Spoon one-third of the soufflé preparation into the mould without pressing it down. Scatter over one portion of the nut mixture, keeping a narrow margin at both the outer wall and central tube, then repeat with another third of the preparation and the remaining mixture. Finish with the last preparation and smooth it lightly. The mould should be no more than three-quarters full. Cover it loosely with a pleated sheet of buttered parchment and foil, leaving space for a modest rise.

5. 5

   Poach in bain-marie

   Set the mould in a deep roasting tin and place the tin on the oven rack. Pour in enough near-boiling water to reach halfway up the mould, taking care that none enters the pudding. Poach for 45 to 55 minutes, until the pudding has risen slightly, feels resilient at the thickest point, and a fine skewer emerges with moist crumbs but no liquid batter. An instant-read thermometer should register about 180°F to 185°F (82°C to 85°C). The water should tremble, not boil fiercely. If it begins surging, lower the oven to 300°F (150°C) and replace a mugful of bath water with cool water; this protects the edges while the centre catches up.

6. 6

   Make the crème anglaise

   While the pudding poaches, heat the milk with all but the reserved tablespoon of cream until small bubbles gather at the edge. Whisk the yolks, sugar, and salt in a bowl until smooth, then pour in the hot dairy gradually while whisking. Return everything to the saucepan and stir constantly over low heat until the crème anglaise coats the back of a spoon and a finger drawn through it leaves a clean path, about 180°F to 181°F (82°C to 83°C). Remove it from the heat and whisk in the prepared Pralin (No. 2352) until evenly dispersed. If the custard shows its first fine grains, take it off the heat immediately, whisk in the reserved cold cream, and strain it into a cool bowl. Ça se rattrape. Hold the sauce warm over barely warm water.

7. 7

   Unmould and serve

   Lift the mould from the bain-marie, remove the covering, and let the pudding settle for 8 to 10 minutes. Loosen only the top rim and the tube with a thin knife; don't saw down the sides and cut through the coating. Centre a warm serving platter over the mould and invert both together in one confident movement. If the pudding resists, wrap the mould in a hot damp towel for 20 seconds and try again. If a small layered section tears, press it back into place while warm and veil the seam with a spoonful of custard. Pour a little pralin custard around the base, serve the rest from a jug, and cut generous wedges. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The macaroons are dry almond macaroons, crisp and plain, not filled Parisian macarons. If yours are fresh and chewy, dry the broken pieces in a low oven before crushing them or the layers will become gummy.
• •Use the nougat-powder form of Pralin (No. 2352), the version intended for custards and soufflé preparations. The separate egg-white icing preparation bearing the same title is not the component called for here.
• •Choose a fixed-bottom tube mould with simple sides. A springform leaks in the bain-marie, while deep decorative ridges give the fragile macaroon layers too many places to catch.
• •Serve the pudding warm rather than fiercely hot. Ten minutes of settling lets the egg structure firm enough to unmould, and the pralin custard restores every bit of generosity.
• •A demi-sec Champagne works beautifully with the toasted almond and pistachio. Keep the wine less sweet than the sauce so the finish stays lively.

Advance Preparation

• •The Pralin (No. 2352) can be prepared several weeks ahead and kept in a tightly closed container in a dry cupboard. Measure it only when the custard is ready so humidity cannot make it clump.
• •The pistachios and macaroons can be chopped and crushed a day ahead, then stored separately in airtight containers.
• •The mould can be double-buttered, coated, covered, and refrigerated for several hours. Let it stand at room temperature while the panade is made.
• •The pralin custard can be prepared a day ahead, covered directly on its surface, and chilled. Reheat it over very low heat while stirring, never letting it boil.
• •Do not hold the finished soufflé preparation. Once the whites are folded in, layer it and begin the bain-marie poach promptly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 215g)