Saxon Pudding

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart heavy saucepan
• •Four 8-ounce (240 ml) ramekins or dariole moulds
• •Deep roasting pan for the bain-marie
• •Electric hand mixer or balloon whisk
• •Firm wooden spoon
• •Rubber spatula
• •Kettle

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the bain-marie

   Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) with a rack just below the middle. Brush four 8-ounce (240 ml) ramekins generously with the softened butter, carrying the strokes upward along the sides. Set them in a deep roasting pan on a folded kitchen towel so they cannot skate. Bring a kettle of water to the boil; this will become the bain-marie, a hot-water bath that cooks the puddings gently and evenly.

2. 2

   Make the pommade

   Work the softened butter directly in a cool, heavy saucepan until it reaches a pommade, a smooth and spreadable cream. Beat in the powdered sugar, then the sifted flour, until no dry pockets remain. Bring the milk to a full boil in a small pan or microwave-safe jug, then whisk it gradually into the butter mixture. If small lumps appear, remove the pan from the heat and whisk firmly while the mixture is still fluid; pass it through a sieve only if stubborn lumps remain.

3. 3

   Dry the panade

   Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir constantly with a firm wooden spoon. Let the mixture boil, then keep beating and turning it for 4 to 6 minutes as it changes from a thick cream into a cohesive panade that pulls from the sides and leaves a fine film across the pan floor. Dry it to the same standard used for Ordinary Pâte à Choux (No. 2373): the paste should hold its shape when pushed to one side, with only a faint buttery sheen at the edge. If it spreads or slumps, keep cooking. Ça se rattrape now; after the yolks go in, excess moisture cannot be removed without ruining the eggs.

4. 4

   Beat in yolks

   Take the pan from the heat and let the panade stand for 2 minutes, stirring twice so its strongest heat escapes. Beat in the yolks one at a time, fully incorporating each before adding the next. The paste may briefly look split and slick after a yolk enters; keep beating off the heat and it will become smooth again. If the first yolk forms a few cooked flecks, immediately scrape the paste into a cool bowl and press it through a medium sieve before continuing.

5. 5

   Fold in whites

   Beat the egg whites in a perfectly clean bowl until they form stiff, glossy peaks that stand upright without looking dry. Stir one-third of the whites firmly into the panade to loosen it, then fold in the remainder in two additions, cutting down through the center and lifting the heavier paste over the whites. Stop as soon as no broad white streaks remain. If the whites become slightly dry and clumpy, soften the first addition with more assertive stirring, then fold the rest gently; the rise may be a little lower, but the pudding is not lost.

6. 6

   Poach the puddings

   Divide the batter among the buttered ramekins, filling each about two-thirds full, and smooth the tops lightly without pressing out the air. Pour the boiling water into the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the ramekins, then transfer the pan carefully to the oven. Poach for 30 to 35 minutes without opening the door during the first 25 minutes. The puddings are ready when their crowns are risen and pale gold, the centers spring back gently, and a fine skewer emerges with moist crumbs rather than wet batter. The bain-marie should only tremble; if it begins boiling hard, lower the oven to 325°F (165°C) and add a small splash of cool water to the pan.

7. 7

   Unmould and sauce

   Lift the ramekins from the bain-marie and rest them for 4 to 5 minutes. Run a thin knife around each edge, invert onto warm dessert plates, and lift the ramekins away. If one pudding clings, do not maul it into submission; serve it proudly in its ramekin. Spoon warm English custard or freshly made Sabayon around each pudding and serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The equal weights of butter, powdered sugar, and flour are the architecture of this pudding. A scale makes the relationship plain and keeps the smaller batch faithful to the source.
• •The Ordinary Pâte à Choux (No. 2373) reference governs only how thoroughly the panade is dried. No prepared pâte à choux is added to the pudding.
• •Separate the eggs while cold, when the yolks are less likely to break, then let the whites lose their chill before whipping. A trace of yolk or grease in the bowl prevents them from reaching their proper volume.
• •English custard gives the pudding a calm, creamy finish and can wait for dinner. Sabayon is lighter and more exuberant, but it should be made close to serving. Choose one sauce, not both.
• •A small glass of demi-sec Vouvray suits the buttery pudding and custard without overwhelming their delicacy. Cooking well is not cooking fancy.

Advance Preparation

• •The panade can be prepared through the addition of the yolks up to 6 hours ahead. Press reusable wrap directly against its surface, chill it, then let it stand for about 30 minutes and beat it smooth before folding in freshly whipped whites.
• •English custard can be made up to 2 days ahead and chilled with its surface covered. Warm it gently before serving. Sabayon does not wait nearly so well and should be whisked shortly before the puddings are unmoulded.
• •The ramekins may be buttered earlier in the day and kept chilled. Fold in the whites and poach the puddings only when the table is nearly ready, because their finest rise belongs to the first serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)