
Chef Juliette
Almond Pudding
Six almond-lined moulds, gently poached until softly risen, with white-wine sabayon scented by orgeat. The lesson is simple and exact: the bain-marie must tremble, never boil.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2503, Rice and Chocolate Pudding, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Tender grains, dark chocolate, and a lifted crumb baked in one buttered dish, with chocolate custard softened by whipped cream alongside. The whole pouding rests on folding the whites without crushing the rice.
Pouding de riz au chocolat (rice and chocolate pudding) teaches restraint in folding. The rice grains must remain whole while the beaten whites lift everything around them, giving you a pudding that is tender and generous rather than heavy. Stir it vigorously and you lose both textures at once.
The original recipe assumed a brigade pantry with Rice Preparation for Entremets (No. 2404) already made in quantity and a separate crème anglaise au chocolat waiting for service. The honest home equivalent is one pound of that finished rice preparation, one shallow pie dish, and a small bowl of custard lightened just before serving. The large-batch base is brigade scaffolding and stays in its own entry. The two ounces of chocolate, three whites, and gentle oven are the dish itself, so none of those proportions move. One cook, one stove, one evening.
The finished pouding rises softly, settles a little as it rests, and reveals distinct rice grains held in an airy chocolate crumb. Fold the whites slowly and stop before every pale wisp disappears. That is the one step that decides the dish.
Pouding de riz au chocolat belongs to the French grand-kitchen entremets table rather than to any one province. In brigade practice, one vanilla- or citrus-scented rice base was prepared in quantity and branched into many sweets; this version took chocolate, egg whites, and a baked finish, a structure that passed naturally to the bourgeois home table. Its parboiled, untouched grains distinguish it from riz au lait, which is meant to soften into its milk rather than keep each grain whole.
Quantity
1 lb (454 g / about 2 cups) Rice Preparation for Entremets (No. 2404)
brought to lukewarm room temperature
Quantity
2 oz (57 g / about ⅓ cup finely chopped)
finely chopped
Quantity
3 (about ⅓ cup / 90 g)
at room temperature
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened, for the dish
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / about 190 g)
cooled
Quantity
6 tablespoons (90 ml / about 90 g)
cold
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Rice Preparation for Entremetsbrought to lukewarm room temperature | 1 lb (454 g / about 2 cups) Rice Preparation for Entremets (No. 2404) |
| dark chocolate, 60 to 70% cacaofinely chopped | 2 oz (57 g / about ⅓ cup finely chopped) |
| large egg whitesat room temperature | 3 (about ⅓ cup / 90 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened, for the dish | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| prepared crème anglaise au chocolat (chocolate custard)cooled | ¾ cup (180 ml / about 190 g) |
| heavy creamcold | 6 tablespoons (90 ml / about 90 g) |
Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C) with a rack in the middle. Butter a shallow 1½-quart (1.4-liter) ovenproof pie dish generously, carrying the butter right to the rim. If the Rice Preparation for Entremets (No. 2404) has been chilled, warm it very gently until it is supple and merely lukewarm. Cold rice makes the chocolate set into hard threads, while hot rice will weaken the egg-white foam.
Melt the chopped chocolate in a dry heatproof bowl set over barely simmering water, keeping the bowl clear of the water beneath. When the chocolate is smooth and glossy, remove it from the heat and fold it through the Rice Preparation for Entremets (No. 2404) with a fork or flexible spatula, lifting gently so the grains remain whole. If the chocolate begins setting into streaks before it disperses, set the bowl back over the warm water and continue folding slowly. Ça se rattrape. Do not add milk or beat the mixture.
Beat the egg whites in a perfectly clean bowl until they form a fairly stiff, glossy froth and a lifted peak bends only at its tip. Fold one-third into the chocolate rice to loosen it, then add the remainder in two portions, cutting down through the center and lifting the mixture over itself. Stop while a few fine white wisps remain. They will disappear in the oven, while continued mixing will crush the rice and drive out the air.
Spoon the mixture into the buttered dish and level it lightly without pressing. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the edges are set, the top looks dry and softly risen, and the center retains a gentle tremble when the dish is nudged. If the surface darkens before the center sets, lay a loose sheet of foil over it. Rest for 10 minutes before serving hot. The pouding will settle slightly, which is its nature, not a failure.
Whip the cold cream to soft peaks, making a crème fouettée (whipped cream) that holds its shape but remains supple. It should expand to approximately the same volume as the crème anglaise au chocolat. Fold the crème fouettée into the cooled custard in two additions until the sauce is airy and pourable. If the cream becomes grainy from overwhipping, fold in a spoonful of the measured custard to smooth it before combining the rest.
For hot service, spoon the rested pouding directly from its baking dish and pass the lightened chocolate custard separately. For cold service, cool the pouding completely, cover, and chill for at least 3 hours before serving with the cold custard alongside. Give each person enough sauce to pool around the pudding without drowning its texture. À table!
1 serving (about 210g)
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