Vermicelli Pudding

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1-quart (1-liter) straight-sided charlotte mould or metal pudding basin
• •2-quart (2-liter) ovenproof saucepan
• •Large heatproof mixing bowl
• •Deep roasting pan for the bain-marie
• •Electric hand mixer or balloon whisk
• •Kettle for the water bath

Instructions

1. 1

   Line the mould

   Heat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter a 1-quart (1-liter) straight-sided charlotte or pudding mould thoroughly, reaching every corner. Scatter the reserved vermicelli over the base and sides, pressing the strands lightly into the butter so they adhere. Leave them 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) long wherever the shape permits; crumbs cannot make the pattern this pudding promises. Chill the prepared mould while you make the base.

   Use fine wheat vermicelli, preferably an egg vermicelli. Rice noodles and transparent bean-thread noodles absorb milk differently and won't give the pudding its intended texture.
2. 2

   Cook the vermicelli

   Bring the milk, sugar, salt, and 3 tablespoons (43 g) butter to a boil in a 2-quart (2-liter) ovenproof saucepan. Add the main quantity of vermicelli in a loose rain, stirring gently so the strands separate. This follows the governing formula of Tapioca (No. 2493), with vermicelli as the source directs. Slide the uncovered pan into the oven for 20 minutes, stirring carefully after 10 minutes, until the strands are tender and the milk has thickened around them. If the vermicelli gathers into a knot, separate it with two forks. Don't whisk, which breaks the strands and turns the base pasty.

3. 3

   Enrich the base

   Scrape the vermicelli mixture into a wide heatproof bowl and let it cool for 5 to 8 minutes, until it remains hot but no longer bubbles, about 140°F (60°C). Stir a large spoonful into the yolks, then return that tempered mixture to the bowl and fold thoroughly through the vermicelli. Add the softened 2½ tablespoons (35 g) butter and stir until it melts into a glossy emulsion. If a few yellow threads begin to set, immediately stir in 1 tablespoon of cold milk and move the bowl onto a cool surface. Ça se rattrape when caught at once.

4. 4

   Fold the whites

   Beat the egg whites until they hold stiff, glossy peaks but still look supple. Fold one-third into the vermicelli base to loosen it, then fold in the remainder with broad strokes from the bottom of the bowl. Keep the air you worked to build. If the first addition disappears instantly, the base is still too hot; stop, wait another 5 minutes, and continue only when the next spoonful remains visibly light.

5. 5

   Poach it gently

   Spoon the mixture carefully into the lined mould so the exterior strands stay in place, then level the surface without pressing out the air. Set the mould in a deep roasting pan and pour in hot water to come halfway up its sides. Reduce the oven to 325°F (160°C) and poach for 45 to 55 minutes, until the top springs back gently and the centre feels resilient rather than liquid. The water should barely quiver. If it begins bubbling hard, lower the oven and add a cup of cool water to the roasting pan. Ça se rattrape; what matters is calming the bath before the pudding curdles at its edges.

6. 6

   Rest and unmould

   Lift the mould from the bain-marie and leave it untouched for 7 to 8 minutes, exactly as the source instructs. Loosen only the upper rim with a thin knife, cover the mould with a warm serving platter, and invert both together in one confident movement. If the pudding clings, wrap the mould briefly in a towel dipped in hot water, wait 20 seconds, and lift again. Never shake it; a warm mould releases more cleanly than a frightened cook.

7. 7

   Sauce and serve

   Serve the pouding de vermicelle warm or at room temperature, with English custard pooled lightly around its base. The source also permits sabayon or a smooth fruit sauce, both served separately so the long-strand pattern remains visible. Bring the whole pudding to the table before cutting it into generous wedges. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Fine wheat vermicelli is the ingredient here, not rice vermicelli or bean-thread noodles. Choose strands thin enough to soften fully in milk but substantial enough to remain visible on the turned pudding.
• •A straight-sided charlotte mould gives the clearest pattern, but a small metal pudding basin works. Avoid a deeply fluted mould; the strands settle into its crevices and the delicate pudding is harder to release.
• •English custard makes the richest accompaniment. Sabayon keeps the plate lighter and more aromatic, while a tart raspberry or apricot sauce cuts through the butter. All three belong to the source, so choose by the meal around it.
• •The pudding is done when it yields under a fingertip and springs slowly back. A firm, dry bounce means it has gone too far; rescue the plate with a generous warm sauce and serve it confidently. Never apologize at your own table.

Advance Preparation

• •The mould can be buttered, lined with long vermicelli strands, covered, and chilled up to a day ahead.
• •The milk-vermicelli base, including its first butter addition, can be cooked a day ahead. Press parchment directly onto its surface and chill it, then warm it gently with 1 tablespoon of milk until supple before adding the yolks, second butter, and freshly beaten whites.
• •For the cleanest make-ahead service, poach and chill the pudding in its mould for up to 24 hours. Unmould it cold, let it stand for 20 minutes, and serve with warm custard; the texture will be firmer than when freshly poached, but the exterior pattern will remain crisp and distinct.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)