
Chef Juliette
Allumettes
Allumettes make one demand before the tray reaches the oven: reduce the Gruyère Béchamel until it holds on a knife, so the puff paste rises into butter-gold layers instead of soaking flat.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2330, Tartelettes à la Florentine, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Twelve pale tartlet shells carrying Parmesan soufflé, black truffle, and sweet crayfish, baked for three breathless minutes and sent straight to the table while their golden caps still stand.
Tartelettes à la Florentine (small tartlets filled with Parmesan soufflé, truffle, and crayfish) teach the discipline of last-minute service. The one true thing to know before you touch a pan is this: a soufflé waits for no one. Have the oven fully hot, the shells ready, and your guests near the table before the filling meets the pastry.
The classical entry assumes colourlessly baked shells from the pastry station, Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a) waiting in another section, cooked crayfish dressed by hand, truffle close by, and a clear path from oven to dining room. It asks for neither a stockpot nor a saucier, and its brief oven finish is not a salamander trick. For one cook, I keep twelve small shells on one tray, use a fiercely preheated home oven, and fold the garniture into only enough prepared soufflé for four people. The brigade batch is scaffolding and can shrink; the pale shell, airy filling, truffle, crayfish, mignonette, and three-minute bake are the dish.
Done correctly, the crust stays pale and crisp while the filling lifts into a soft golden cap, smelling first of Parmesan, then truffle, with sweet crayfish underneath. Fold lightly, fill cleanly, and bake at once. The clean rim is the small step that decides the rise.
Tartelettes à la Florentine belong to the classical Parisian table of petits hors-d’œuvre chauds, small hot appetizers built in pastry cases and sent out the instant their filling rose. Although à la florentine usually signals spinach in French culinary grammar, this named formula is a striking exception: its garniture is Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a), truffle, crayfish tails, and mignonette, with no spinach at all. The dish moved naturally from brigade service to the home dinner party because the essential work is not equipment but timing, a small oven batch carried directly to waiting guests.
Quantity
12 (2-inch / 5-cm)
colourlessly blind-baked and fully cooled
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / 300 g) Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a)
prepared and ready to bake
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 100 g)
patted very dry and cut into ¼-inch / 6-mm dice
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g)
finely grated
Quantity
¾ teaspoon (3.75 ml / 1.5 g)
black peppercorns coarsely crushed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small tartlet shellscolourlessly blind-baked and fully cooled | 12 (2-inch / 5-cm) |
| Soufflé au Parmesanprepared and ready to bake | 1½ cups (360 ml / 300 g) Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a) |
| cooked crayfish tail meatpatted very dry and cut into ¼-inch / 6-mm dice | ½ cup (120 ml / 100 g) |
| black trufflefinely grated | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 8 g) |
| mignonetteblack peppercorns coarsely crushed | ¾ teaspoon (3.75 ml / 1.5 g) |
Heat the oven to 450°F / 230°C, or 425°F / 220°C with a fan, with a rack in the upper third. Arrange the pale tartlet shells on a light-coloured baking sheet and clear the path from oven to table. The filling will not wait while glasses are poured or guests are found; everything else must be ready first.
Blot the crayfish tails once more, then combine them gently with the grated truffle and mignonette. Mignonette means coarsely crushed pepper here, not the shallot-and-vinegar condiment. Taste a piece of crayfish: the pepper should be unmistakable because the soufflé will soften it. If packaged tails taste briny, rinse them quickly and press them thoroughly dry before continuing.
Place the Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a) in a broad bowl. Scatter the crayfish mixture over it in three additions, folding from the bottom over the top with a flexible spatula while turning the bowl. Stop as soon as the garniture is distributed. A few uneven flecks do less harm than repeated stirring, which drives out the air the tartlets need.
Spoon about 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of filling into each shell, mounding it slightly above the rim without pressing it down. Keep the pastry rims bare. If filling smears across one, ça se rattrape: wipe the rim clean with a damp fingertip so the soufflé has a clear path upward. Once all twelve are filled, put them into the oven immediately.
Bake for about three minutes without opening the door. The filling should lift into a tender golden cap, set around the edge, and retain a slight tremble at the centre; the pastry should remain pale rather than toasted brown. If a cap is still flat and visibly wet after three minutes, give it thirty seconds more, but do not chase deep colour. Transfer the tartlets straight to the platter and serve at once. À table!
1 serving (about 120g)
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