Fonds d’Artichauts Farcis

Fonds d’Artichauts Farcis (stuffed artichoke bottoms) teach restraint in two directions: the blanc protects their pale color, while an early exit from the pan protects their shape. The one true thing to know is this: cook the bottoms only until a knife enters with slight resistance. The oven finishes them.

The original assumed a saucier on staff, a stock never off the fire, and a salamander waiting for the final gratin. At home, the prepared Special Court-bouillon, or Blanc (No. 167), Duxelle for Stuffed Vegetables (Tomatoes, Mushrooms, &c.) (No. 224), and sauce Madère do the component work; a wide saucepan and an ordinary broiler handle the service. This version cuts the brigade quantity to eight bottoms for four people. Gallons of blanc and pans held for service are scaffolding and can go. The firm poach, concentrated duxelle, buttered crumb, and fierce final heat are the dish, and they stay.

Done properly, each pale artichoke cup carries a dark, savory mound beneath a butter-gold crust, with the Madeira sauce glossy beside it rather than soaking the crumb. Watch the texture in the blanc above everything else. Pull the bottoms while they still have backbone.