Chef Juliette
Ordinary or White Consommé
Beef shin, lean beef, and fowl begin in cold water and rise slowly toward a tremble. Skim before the boil, and you learn the quiet discipline that gives every clear French broth its backbone.
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Pistachio Butter
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 156, Pistachio Butter, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Beurre de pistache turns one disciplined act, pounding blanched nuts with drops of water before adding butter, into a satin-green seasoning that gives fine cold sauces their colour and quiet perfume.
Sauces & Condiments
French
Make Ahead
Dinner Party
35 min
Active Time
5 min cook•40 min total
YieldAbout 1/2 cup (140 g)
Beurre de pistache (pistachio butter) teaches a small but exact lesson: when nuts are pounded for a fine classical butter, moisture is a rein, not a liquid ingredient. A few drops of water keep the pistachio oil from running out before the paste forms; a spoonful would loosen the mixture and dull its perfume.
The source entry assumed a garde-manger, the cold kitchen, with a broad mortar, a tamis, and enough sauces waiting to use eight ounces of pistachios at once. For one cook, one stove, one evening, I have halved that service batch, replaced the large tamis with a 15 cm fine-mesh sieve, and used a mini processor as the honest equivalent of prolonged pounding. The four-to-one ratio of pistachio to butter has not moved. Neither have the blanching, peeling, damp grinding, or final sieving, because those steps are the dish; the brigade quantity and large equipment were scaffolding.
Finished beurre de pistache is dense, smooth, and softly green, with butter carrying the pistachio rather than covering it. Keep the peeled kernels damp and add any extra water only two or three drops at a time. That restraint is the step that decides everything.
In the classical kitchens of Paris, beurre de pistache belonged to the garde-manger repertoire of beurres composés, concentrated butters used to colour and perfume finished cold sauces without leaving coarse nut grit. Its blanching and pounding follow the same practice used for almond and pistachio pastes in French confectionery, but this savory preparation carries no sugar and uses butter as its final binder. The commercial spread sold under the same English name is ground nuts for the table; this is a strained seasoning butter, and the distinction lies in the technique.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
raw shelled unsalted pistachios
Quantity
scant 1 cup (225 ml / 113 g)
water
Quantity
4 cups (960 ml / 960 g)
brought to a boil for blanching
cold water
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / 480 g)
for cooling the blanched pistachios
cold water
Quantity
up to 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 2.5 g)
used only by drops while pounding
unsalted butter
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
softened but still cool
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw shelled unsalted pistachios | scant 1 cup (225 ml / 113 g) |
| waterbrought to a boil for blanching | 4 cups (960 ml / 960 g) |
| cold waterfor cooling the blanched pistachios | 2 cups (480 ml / 480 g) |
| cold waterused only by drops while pounding | up to 1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml / 2.5 g) |
| unsalted buttersoftened but still cool | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
Equipment Needed
- •1 litre saucepan
- •Mini food processor or large mortar and pestle
- •15 cm fine-mesh sieve
- •Flexible silicone scraper
Instructions
- 1
Blanch the pistachios
Bring the 4 cups of water to a full boil in a small saucepan. Add the pistachios and, as soon as the water returns to the boil, move the pan off the active burner. Leave them at the edge of the heat for 2 to 4 minutes, testing one after 2 minutes. The thin skin should slip away when pinched; the kernel underneath must remain firm, not cooked soft.
- 2
Cool and peel
Drain the pistachios and immediately drop them into the cold water. Peel each kernel while it is still wet, rubbing away every purple-brown skin that releases. If a few skins cling, cover those nuts with freshly boiled water for another minute, then cool and try again. Ça se rattrape. Keep the cleaned kernels damp beneath a clean cloth, because a dried surface encourages the oil to separate during pounding.
- 3
Pound to a paste
Transfer the damp pistachios to a mini food processor and work in short pulses, scraping the bowl often, until they pass from fine crumbs into a close, smooth paste. Add the measured cold water only two or three drops at a time when the mixture becomes dry or stops circulating. If oil begins filming the bowl, stop at once. Chill the paste for 10 minutes, then resume with two drops of cold water; ça se rattrape. A processor creates heat faster than a mortar, so patience and short pulses matter.
Water restrains the pistachio oil, but too much makes a loose butter that keeps poorly. You may not need the full 1/2 teaspoon. - 4
Work in butter
Add the softened butter in three small portions, working each completely into the pistachio paste before adding the next. The sequence matters: the nuts must become a paste before the butter enters, or the mixture stays coarse. When properly worked, the beurre de pistache will look satin-smooth and hold a soft ridge. If it turns glossy and loose because the butter became warm, chill it for 10 minutes and work it briefly again.
- 5
Pass through the sieve
Set a 15 cm fine-mesh sieve over a clean bowl and press the beurre de pistache through with a flexible scraper, working in small portions. Scrape the smooth paste from the underside and leave any coarse skin or grit behind. This final sieving is not ceremony; it gives the butter the fineness required to disappear cleanly into a cold sauce. Pack it into a small covered container and chill until needed, or work it into a finished cold sauce by small spoonfuls. À table!
Chef Tips
- •Use raw, unsalted pistachios. Roasted nuts produce a darker, heavier butter and salted nuts take control of the finished sauce away from you; neither follows the preparation set down here.
- •A mini processor must be small enough to catch this home-scale batch. If yours only flings the nuts beneath the blade, use a large mortar and pestle, pounding in two batches and combining them before the butter is added.
- •Beurre de pistache is a concentrated seasoning, not a sweet spread. Work it into a finished cold sauce a little at a time, allow the flavour to settle for several minutes, then taste again before adding more.
- •Keep it away from strong heat once finished. Cooking flattens the fresh pistachio perfume and muddies the clear green colour that the blanching and peeling worked to preserve.
Advance Preparation
- •Make the beurre de pistache up to 3 days ahead. Press parchment directly against its surface, cover tightly, and keep it refrigerated so it neither dries nor takes on neighbouring aromas.
- •For longer keeping, freeze it in tablespoon portions for up to 1 month. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then work it briefly with a cool spoon to restore its smooth texture.
- •The pistachios may be blanched and peeled several hours ahead. Keep them covered and damp in the refrigerator, then bring them out only when you are ready to pound them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 18g)
Calories
105 calories
Total Fat
9 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
6 g
Cholesterol
8 mg
Sodium
1 mg
Total Carbohydrates
4 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
1 g
Protein
3 g
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