
Chef Isabel
Aceitunas Aliñadas Andaluzas
Andalucía's green olives are cracked just enough to drink in garlic, cumin, oregano and sherry vinegar, then left two days until the brine turns fragrant and every bite carries the aliño.
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Cádiz gives boiled carrots their proper bite: thick coins marinated with a mortar-pounded aliño of garlic, cumin, oregano, sweet pimentón, and sherry vinegar, then left overnight until sharp and fragrant.
Zanahorias aliñadas belong to Cádiz, Andalucía: thick coins of boiled carrot steeped in a sharp, brick-red aliño, a dressing of garlic, cumin, oregano, sweet pimentón, and vinegar. They arrive cold or cool on a small plate, fragrant with cumin and firm enough for a fork. This isn't a long-keeping pickle. It's a short marinade, and it is better the next day.
The carrots decide the dish. Pull them from the water while a skewer still meets a little resistance, because they continue softening as they cool and rest in the dressing. Cook them until floppy and no mortar work can rescue them. Slice them thick, then add the aliño while they're still warm enough to take in its flavour.
Vinagre de Jerez, sherry vinegar, gives the clean acidity and rounded wine flavour that belong naturally in a Cádiz kitchen. If you can't find it, use the same amount of ordinary red or white wine vinegar, never balsamic. The result will be a little plainer and less nutty, but it will still be the right sort of dressing. Pound the spices, keep the carrots firm, and give them four hours at least. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Zanahorias aliñadas belong to the gaditano repertory of cold aliños, vinegar dressings served in Cádiz taverns and homes to sharpen inexpensive cooked vegetables before a meal. Cumin, oregano, garlic, and pimentón distinguish this preparation from plainer dressed carrots found elsewhere in Andalucía. Vinagre de Jerez comes from the wine country around Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María, placing the vinegar as firmly in Cádiz as the dish itself.
Quantity
750g
trimmed and peeled; choose carrots of similar thickness
Quantity
1.5L
Quantity
15g
Quantity
4 medium (about 14g)
peeled
Quantity
5g (2 teaspoons)
Quantity
2g (2 teaspoons)
Quantity
3g (1 teaspoon)
Quantity
5g (1 teaspoon)
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
90ml
Quantity
15ml (1 tablespoon)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium carrotstrimmed and peeled; choose carrots of similar thickness | 750g |
| water, for boiling | 1.5L |
| fine sea salt, for the boiling water | 15g |
| garlic clovespeeled | 4 medium (about 14g) |
| cumin seeds | 5g (2 teaspoons) |
| dried oregano | 2g (2 teaspoons) |
| pimentón dulce (sweet paprika) | 3g (1 teaspoon) |
| fine sea salt, for the aliño | 5g (1 teaspoon) |
| vinagre de Jerez (sherry vinegar) | 90ml |
| cool water | 90ml |
| extra virgin olive oil | 15ml (1 tablespoon) |
Bring the 1.5 litres of water and 15g salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the peeled carrots whole, return to a gentle boil, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on their thickness. Start checking at 10 minutes. A thin skewer should enter the thickest part but still meet definite resistance at the centre. Lift them out at once and leave them just until comfortable to handle.
While the carrots cool, pound the cumin seeds in a mortar until coarsely ground. Add the garlic and 5g salt, then work them into a smooth paste. Crush in the oregano, followed by the pimentón. Stir in the sherry vinegar and cool water until the paste loosens into a fragrant red-brown aliño. Add the olive oil last and mix well.
Cut the warm carrots across into coins 7 to 8mm thick and place them in a shallow glass or glazed ceramic container. Pour over every drop of the aliño and turn the carrots gently until the spices are evenly distributed. The liquid will collect around them rather than cover them, which is right. Let them cool for 20 minutes, turning once.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, though overnight is better. Turn the carrots once or twice if you remember, so the upper pieces meet the dressing. Take them from the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving, stir gently, and taste one. If the flavour needs lifting, add 5ml more sherry vinegar. Spoon the carrots into a small dish with enough aliño to leave a shallow red-brown pool beneath them.
1 serving (about 160g)
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