Tortilla del Sacromonte

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Two medium saucepans
• •Large bowl for cold water
• •Fine sieve
• •Non-stick or well-seasoned frying pan, 24cm
• •Flat plate larger than the frying pan
• •Flexible spatula
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Rinse the brains

   Set the brains in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes, changing the water once when it turns cloudy. Handle them gently. This draws away loose blood without breaking their delicate shape. Drain and rinse under a very light stream of cold water.

   Use only inspected lamb or calf brains from a licensed butcher. In places where their sale is restricted, do not replace them with brain from hunted or uninspected animals.
2. 2

   Blanch the offal

   Put the brains in one saucepan and the whole criadillas in another. Cover each with cold water. Add 15ml vinegar and 2g salt to each pan, then bring both slowly to a bare simmer. Cook the brains for 5 minutes and the criadillas for 10 minutes. Lift each into cold water as soon as its time is up. A hard boil makes both firm and rubbery, so keep the water quiet.

3. 3

   Trim and dice

   When cool enough to handle, pull the thin membrane and any visible vessels from the brains. Slit the tough outer covering of each criadilla lengthwise and peel it away. Pat everything very dry, then cut the brains and cleaned criadillas into even 1cm dice. Pésalo, no lo adivines, and keep the pieces small enough to sit neatly inside the egg.

4. 4

   Cook the potatoes

   Heat 150ml olive oil in a 24cm non-stick or well-seasoned frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the diced potatoes and 1g salt. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, turning gently, until completely tender and lightly golden at the edges. They should yield easily beneath a spoon, not become crisp. Lift them into a sieve and drain well, reserving the oil for another use.

5. 5

   Warm the filling

   Return the pan to medium-low heat with 5ml of the reserved oil. Add the diced criadillas and cook for 3 minutes. Fold in the brains, peas and jamón, then cook for 2 minutes more, turning carefully so the brain pieces remain whole. Take the pan off the heat and let the filling cool for 5 minutes.

6. 6

   Combine with egg

   Beat the eggs in a large bowl with the remaining 2g salt and the black pepper, just until the whites and yolks are joined. Fold in the drained potatoes and warm offal mixture. Leave it for 5 minutes so the egg settles around every small piece. Taste the cooked filling before adding any extra salt; jamón can carry quite enough.

7. 7

   Set the first side

   Wipe the pan clean and heat the remaining 10ml olive oil over medium heat. Pour in the egg mixture, spread the filling evenly and draw a spatula through the centre twice during the first 30 seconds. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the edge is firm and golden while the top remains softly unset.

8. 8

   Flip and finish

   Cover the pan with a flat plate larger than its rim. Hold both firmly, turn in one committed movement, then slide the tortilla back into the pan. Cook for another 4 to 5 minutes. The centre must reach at least 71°C and show no liquid egg when tested with a thin knife. This tortilla should be tender, but it is not served runny. Rest it for 8 minutes before cutting into wedges.

   If the first edge catches during the flip, loosen it with a flexible spatula and carry on. Nadie nace sabiendo. A small tear closes as the second side sets.

Chef Tips

• •Order the brains and criadillas from a licensed butcher several days ahead. Frozen inspected offal is perfectly useful here; thaw it overnight in the refrigerator, then rinse and blanch it as written.
• •Veal brain and calf criadillas are the proper alternative when lamb offal is unavailable. Their texture is firmer, so blanch each for two minutes longer and cut the cooled meat into 8mm dice.
• •Do not replace the brains with liver or the criadillas with sweetbreads and keep the same name. Those ingredients produce respectable omelettes, but the pairing of brains and criadillas is what identifies the Sacromonte dish.
• •Jamón varies greatly in salt. Measure the salt used in the blanching water and eggs, then taste the cooked filling before adding more. Precision here keeps a rich tortilla from becoming a thirsty one.
• •Serve the tortilla warm after its short rest, with bread and a young red wine from Granada. The rest lets the egg settle around the offal, giving you clean wedges without drying the centre.

Advance Preparation

• •The brains and criadillas can be blanched, cleaned and diced up to 24 hours ahead. Refrigerate them promptly in separate covered containers at 4°C or colder.
• •The potatoes and offal filling can be cooked up to 4 hours ahead and refrigerated once cool. Bring the filling near room temperature for 20 minutes before combining it with the eggs.
• •Beat the eggs and assemble the mixture only when you are ready to cook. Leftover tortilla should be refrigerated within 2 hours and eaten the following day, reheated until hot through.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 220g)