
Chef Graziella
Arista alla Fiorentina
The roast pork of Florence: bone-in loin studded with rosemary and garlic, nothing more. This is the dish that earned its name from a Byzantine bishop who declared it aristos, the best.
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Thin pork medallions seared golden, then bathed in a bright sauce of lemon, butter, capers, and white wine. The technique of veal piccata applied to the pig, with excellent results.
This is the dish that proves Italian home cooking is not about expensive ingredients. Pork tenderloin costs a fraction of veal. Pounded thin and cooked quickly, it becomes something elegant, something you would be proud to serve to guests, yet simple enough for a Tuesday.
The technique matters more than the protein. You pound the meat thin so it cooks in minutes. You dredge it lightly, not heavily, because thick flour coating becomes paste. You sear over proper heat so the surface browns before the interior overcooks. You build a pan sauce from the fond, the wine, the lemon. Every step serves the next.
Americans ruin this dish by adding garlic, by using cream, by drowning it in sauce. The lemon should be bright, not overwhelming. The capers provide salt and texture. The butter rounds everything into harmony. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
Scaloppine preparations appear in Italian cookbooks from the 18th century onward, when thin-sliced meat became fashionable among the urban middle class who wanted elegant food that cooked quickly. The lemon and caper combination, often called 'piccata,' became associated with Roman cooking, where the sharp flavors cut through the richness of butter-sautéed meat.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cut into 8 medallions
Quantity
1/2 cup
for dredging
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/3 cup (about 2 lemons)
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 tablespoons
drained and rinsed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork tenderloincut into 8 medallions | 1 1/2 pounds |
| all-purpose flourfor dredging | 1/2 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| extra virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 1/3 cup (about 2 lemons) |
| chicken broth | 1/2 cup |
| capersdrained and rinsed | 3 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf Italian parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
Place each pork medallion between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using the flat side of a meat mallet or a rolling pin, pound each piece to an even thickness of one-quarter inch. The meat should be uniformly thin. Uneven thickness means uneven cooking, and uneven cooking means failure. Season both sides generously with salt and pepper.
Spread the flour on a large plate. Dredge each pounded cutlet in flour, coating both sides completely. Shake off all excess flour. The coating should be whisper-thin, barely visible. Thick flour becomes gummy paste. Set the cutlets on a wire rack or clean plate. They should not touch or the coating becomes damp.
Heat the olive oil and two tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foam subsides and you see the first wisps of smoke, add half the cutlets in a single layer. Do not crowd the pan. Cook without moving until golden brown on the bottom, about two minutes. Turn and cook the second side another two minutes. The meat should be golden, not gray. Transfer to a warm plate. Repeat with remaining cutlets, adding a bit more oil if the pan looks dry.
Pour off any excess fat from the pan but keep all the brown bits on the bottom. These are flavor. Return the pan to medium-high heat. Add the white wine and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release all the fond. Let the wine bubble and reduce by half, about one minute. You should no longer smell raw alcohol.
Add the lemon juice and chicken broth to the pan. Bring to a vigorous simmer and let reduce until the liquid coats a spoon lightly, about three minutes. Add the capers. Remove the pan from heat and swirl in the remaining two tablespoons of cold butter, one piece at a time. The butter should emulsify into the sauce, making it glossy and slightly thickened. Do not let it boil after adding the butter or it will break.
Return the pork cutlets and any accumulated juices to the pan. Spoon the sauce over the meat and let it warm through for thirty seconds, no more. The meat is already cooked. Further cooking makes it tough. Transfer to a warm serving platter, spoon all the sauce over the top, scatter the parsley, and bring it to the table immediately. This is not a dish that waits.
1 serving (about 200g)
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