Melva de Andalucía en Aceite de Oliva

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide stainless-steel pot, about 4 litres
• •Instant-read food thermometer
• •Fine fish tweezers
• •Wire rack set over a tray
• •2 clean, completely dry 500ml jars
• •Clean skewer or narrow spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the melva

   Ask the fishmonger to remove the head and viscera, but leave the backbone in place. Weigh 1kg after cleaning, pésalo, no lo adivines. Cut the fish across the bone into sections about 5cm thick, rinse the cavity and cut surfaces briefly under cold water, then pat them dry.

   Fresh melva should have firm, glossy flesh and a clean sea smell. A properly frozen fish thawed overnight in the refrigerator is better than a tired one sold as fresh.
2. 2

   Make the salted water

   Put the 2 litres of water and 100g salt into a wide 4-litre pot. Bring it to a boil, stirring until the salt dissolves, then lower the heat until the surface holds a quiet simmer.

3. 3

   Poach without boiling

   Lower the melva sections into the salted water. Let the water return slowly to a bare simmer, then cook for 10 to 14 minutes, depending on thickness. Do not let it boil hard. The flesh should be opaque beside the backbone, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part must register 63°C. Lift the pieces onto a tray and leave them for 10 minutes, just until they can be handled.

4. 4

   Clean the warm fish

   While the fish is still warm, pull away the skin and fins. Separate the four loins from each section and remove the backbone, pin bones, loose scales, and the very dark central bloodline. Work gently so the loins remain in broad pieces. Run a fingertip over every surface to find the small bones that eyes miss.

   Clean melva warm, not refrigerator-cold. The skin and bones release easily while the natural oils are still soft, so the loins stay whole.
5. 5

   Drain and dry

   Set the cleaned loins in one layer on a rack over a tray. Blot them carefully with kitchen paper, refrigerate uncovered for 1 hour, then blot once more. This is the step that decides the jar: the surface must feel dry, with no cooking water caught between the flakes.

6. 6

   Pack under oil

   Wash two 500ml jars and their lids in hot soapy water, rinse them well, and dry them completely. Pack the cold melva loosely into the jars without crushing the flakes. Pour in the olive oil, slide a clean skewer around the sides to release trapped air, and add more oil until the fish is covered by at least 1cm. Leave about 1.5cm of empty space beneath each lid, close the jars, and refrigerate immediately.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Leave the melva under oil for at least 12 hours before serving so the flesh settles and takes on the oil. Take out only the amount you need and let it stand for 15 to 20 minutes, until the chilled oil clears and loosens. Serve the loins with a spoonful of their oil. Keep the remaining fish submerged, return it promptly to the refrigerator, and finish it within 3 days of packing.

Chef Tips

• •Look for melva in late summer and early autumn, when catches traditionally reach the Andalusian coast. Ask for Auxis rochei or Auxis thazard, since other small tunas are sometimes sold under loose market names.
• •Small skipjack tuna is the closest substitute for its firm, dark flesh. Albacore is easier to find in some places, but it gives a paler, softer, milder preserve. Both are good food, but neither jar should be sold to the table as melva.
• •Choose a mild olive oil that tastes clean rather than fiercely bitter. The fish is humble and quite lean, so an aggressive oil covers it instead of preserving its character. Any unused oil remains ordinary cooking oil.
• •Do not add raw garlic, herbs, peppers, or lemon peel to the jar. Traditional melva en aceite needs fish, salt, and oil, and fresh additions introduce moisture without improving the preserve. Add onion, roasted pepper, or vinegar only when serving.
• •This is a refrigerator conserva, not a shelf-stable canned fish. Oil does not make cooked fish safe in the pantry, and a boiling-water bath is not sufficient. For long-term pantry storage, use a tested pressure-canning method from a national food-safety authority.

Advance Preparation

• •Cook and pack the melva the day before it is needed. A rest of 12 to 24 hours under oil gives the best texture and a settled, clean flavour.
• •Keep the jars at 4°C or colder and use the fish within 3 days of packing. Always remove portions with a clean utensil and keep what remains fully covered with oil.
• •For longer meal preparation, freeze the cooled, cleaned loins with enough oil to coat them in small freezer-safe containers for up to 1 month. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, cover with fresh olive oil, and eat within 24 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 125g)