Gazpacho Manchego (Galianos)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide heavy casserole or Dutch oven, 6-litre capacity
• •Sturdy tongs
• •Slotted spoon
• •2-litre heatproof measuring jug
• •Instant-read thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the game

   Pat the rabbit and partridge dry. Season every piece with 12g of the salt and all the black pepper, working it into the joints. Leave the remaining 6g salt beside the stove so it goes into the pot in measured stages, not by guesswork. Pésalo, no lo adivines.

2. 2

   Brown the game

   Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Brown the rabbit and partridge in two batches so the pieces sit in one layer. Give them 4 to 5 minutes on each broad side, about 16 to 18 minutes altogether, until the surfaces are deep gold and the bottom of the pot carries a dark brown coating. Transfer the browned pieces to a tray.

3. 3

   Build the sofrito

   Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the onion, green pepper, and 4g of the remaining salt to the same oil. Cook for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring often and scraping up the browned meat juices, until the vegetables are soft, dark gold, and sweet. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Add the grated tomato and cook for another 12 to 15 minutes, until almost no watery liquid remains and the oil begins to show around the edges. Take the pot off the heat, stir in the pimentón for 20 seconds, and do not let it scorch.

4. 4

   Simmer the game

   Return the rabbit and partridge to the casserole with any juices from the tray. Add the bay leaves, thyme, and 2 litres of cold water. Bring slowly to a boil, skim away the grey foam, then lower the heat and hold the pot at a gentle simmer, partially covered, for 50 to 70 minutes. The game is ready when it has reached at least 74°C at the thickest joint and the leg meat pulls easily from the bone. Wild game may need another 20 to 30 minutes.

5. 5

   Pick and measure

   Lift the game onto a tray and discard the bay leaves. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull it from the bones in generous bite-sized pieces, keeping the rabbit and partridge distinct rather than shredding them finely. Check carefully for the partridge's small bones. Transfer the broth and softened vegetables to a heatproof measuring jug. You need exactly 1.4 litres. Simmer it down if there is more, or add boiling water if there is less. Return the measured broth and all the picked meat to the casserole.

   Don't skip the measuring. Torta cenceña absorbs fiercely, and the balance between 1.4 litres of broth and 350g of bread gives a thick stew whose pieces still keep their shape.
6. 6

   Add the torta

   Bring the broth back to a calm simmer. Scatter in one third of the torn torta cenceña and fold it through gently. Repeat twice, waiting about 1 minute between additions so every piece meets the broth. Simmer uncovered for 8 to 12 minutes, turning from the bottom every minute so nothing catches. Stop when the bread is flexible all the way through but still has clear, irregular edges, with a shallow gloss of broth gathering between the pieces. This is the point that decides the dish.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Take the casserole off the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes. The torta will drink the last loose broth and the stew will settle enough to mound softly on a spoon. Taste and add the final 2g salt only if it needs it. If the mixture has tightened too far, fold through 50 to 100ml boiling water. Carry the casserole straight to the table and serve at once.

Chef Tips

• •Torta cenceña is not soft flatbread. It is a thin, yeastless wheat bread baked until dry enough to travel. Soft tortillas, pita, and fresh lavash turn gummy in the pot, so don't use them.
• •If you can't buy torta cenceña, make it. Mix 350g plain flour, 175ml water, and 6g fine salt; knead for 5 minutes, rest for 20 minutes, then divide into four pieces and roll each one 2mm thick. Prick them all over and bake on preheated trays at 230°C for 8 to 12 minutes, until pale gold and completely dry. Cool them and weigh 350g for the stew.
• •Partridge can be replaced with 500g bone-in chicken thighs, the ordinary substitute used when game is scarce. The broth will be milder and fattier, so skim it carefully. Hare may replace the rabbit by weight, but its darker meat can need 90 to 120 minutes before it softens.
• •The tomato is cooked down here, so you needn't wait for the raw tomato season as you would for gazpacho Andaluz. When fresh tomatoes are pale and hard, use 250g drained canned whole tomatoes, crushed by hand. The sauce will be slightly deeper and sweeter, which is better than asking a winter tomato to do work it can't.

Advance Preparation

• •The rabbit and partridge may be seasoned up to 12 hours ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. Bring them out 30 minutes before browning.
• •Cook the game, sofrito, and broth through the measuring stage up to one day ahead. Cool quickly, refrigerate within two hours, and reheat at a gentle simmer before adding the torta. Never add the bread ahead, because it loses its distinct pieces as it sits.
• •Homemade torta cenceña can be baked up to two weeks ahead. Let it cool completely and keep it airtight in a dry cupboard.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 500g)