
Chef Juliette
Huîtres à la Favorite
Huîtres à la Favorite layers barely poached oysters, silken Béchamel, and black truffle in their shells, then flashes them beneath fierce heat until Parmesan freckles gold and butter gleams at the bubbling edge.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 985, Huîtres Grillées, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Huîtres Grillées prove that fierce heat can be delicate: oysters held level in salt, touched with lemon and mignonette pepper, poached swiftly from above, then glossed with Sauce Diable Escoffier.
Huîtres Grillées (oysters quickly poached from above in their shells) teach one precise lesson: fierce heat can be gentle when it is brief. The oyster must stay level in its own liquor and meet the hottest heat you can give it for only a few minutes. Let the liquor boil and the flesh tightens; catch it as the top turns pearly and the edge just begins to curl, and you have tenderness, brine, lemon, pepper, and the dark spark of Sauce Diable Escoffier.
The original recipe assumed a saucier on staff, a stock never off the fire behind the finished Sauce Diable Escoffier, and a salamander fierce enough to poach the exposed surface before the oyster beneath could toughen. A fully heated home broiler is the honest equivalent. The service tray becomes twelve oysters for four people, and the coffeespoon becomes one scant teaspoon; the sauce station is brigade scaffolding and can go, while the finished sauce remains intact in its own preparation. One cook, one stove, one evening.
What cannot change is the dish itself: oysters opened into their hollow shells, set very straight in salt, touched with one drop of lemon and mignonette pepper, poached from above, then sauced only after they leave the heat. Have the Sauce Diable Escoffier hot and the platter waiting before the oysters go under the broiler. Keep every shell dead level and use maximum heat for minimum time; that is the step that decides the dish.
Huîtres grillées belong to the French classical hors-d'œuvre table, where oysters arriving from Normandy, Brittany, and the Atlantic coast moved through Parisian kitchens as both raw shellfish and hot first courses. In this preparation, grillées does not mean charred on a grate: the oysters remain in their hollow shells and receive fierce heat from above so only the exposed surface is speedily poached. The peppered Sauce Diable Escoffier is applied after the heat, preserving the oyster's brine while giving the concise finish expected from the classical sauce station.
Quantity
12
scrubbed and kept well chilled
Quantity
4 cups (960 ml / 1.15 kg)
for stabilizing the shells
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.6 g)
strained
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g)
freshly crushed
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 45 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| live medium oystersscrubbed and kept well chilled | 12 |
| coarse sea saltfor stabilizing the shells | 4 cups (960 ml / 1.15 kg) |
| fresh lemon juicestrained | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.6 g) |
| mignonette pepper (coarsely crushed black pepper)freshly crushed | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.3 g) |
| finished Sauce Diable Escoffier | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 45 g) |
Set an oven rack about 4 inches (10 cm) below the broiler element and heat the broiler on its highest setting for a full 10 minutes. Spread the coarse salt across a heavy rimmed tray in a bed about ½ inch (1.5 cm) deep, making twelve shallow hollows. The salt is equipment, not seasoning; it cradles each irregular shell so the oyster liquor stays where it belongs.
Check the oysters before opening and discard any with broken shells or any gaping oyster that does not close when tapped. Hold one at a time in a folded towel or protected glove, cupped shell down and hinge exposed. Work the oyster knife into the hinge, twist to release it, then slide the blade beneath the flat lid to cut the upper muscle. Remove the lid and free the oyster from below without turning the cupped shell over. Preserve every drop of clear liquor. If one shell spills, borrow a teaspoon of liquor from a particularly generous neighbor; ça se rattrape. Lift out any shell splinters with the knife tip.
Press each hollow shell very straight into its salt hollow, adjusting until the rim is horizontal. Touch every oyster with one small drop of lemon juice and only a few grains of mignonette pepper. Do not squeeze lemon freely over the tray; the source asks for a drop because too much acid begins curing the tender surface before the heat reaches it.
Put the finished Sauce Diable Escoffier in the smallest saucepan you own and warm it over the lowest heat, stirring, just until fluid and glossy. Do not simmer, reduce, or rebuild it here; it is a complete preparation reached for at the moment of service. Cover the pan and take it off the heat. The small portion will stay warm while the oysters cook.
Slide the tray beneath the fierce broiler and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Watch the oysters, not the clock: the exposed surfaces should turn pearly, the liquor should quiver, and the outer edges should barely begin to curl. If the broiler heats unevenly, lift out the ready oysters individually with tongs, keeping them level, then rotate the slower shells for another 20 to 30 seconds. Ça se rattrape. If the liquor begins boiling hard or the flesh starts shrinking, remove the tray immediately; more heat cannot improve it.
Using tongs, lift the shells straight onto a clean napkin-lined platter. Spoon one scant teaspoon, about 4 ml and the useful home equivalent of a coffeespoonful, of hot Sauce Diable Escoffier over each oyster. The sauce goes on after the heat so its peppered edge stays distinct and the oyster does not stew beneath it. Carry the platter directly to the table. À table!
1 serving (about 50g)
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