
Chef Juliette
Bombe Aboukir
Bombe Aboukir sets a pale pistachio ice shell around pralined pâte à bombe, cool, nutty, and cleanly sliceable, with chopped pistachios held in a centre as light as frozen mousse.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2914, Bombe Zamora, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Coffee ice forms the bitter, fragrant shell; Curaçao pâte à bombe fills it with orange-scented richness. The lesson is temperature: freeze each layer firmly, then unmould with a warm cloth and confidence.
Bombe Zamora (coffee-ice bombe with Curaçao pâte à bombe) teaches one true thing before you touch a pan: a frozen dessert is built by controlling temperature, not by rushing cold ingredients together. The coffee shell must be firm and complete before it receives the pâte à bombe, a hot-syrup yolk foam folded with cream, or the two layers blur and the clean dark ring disappears.
The source kitchen assumed a sorbetière turning in salted ice, a metal bombe mould packed and repacked by spare hands, and enough freezer space for brigade portions. At home, a small ice-cream machine, a 1½-quart mould, and an ordinary deep freezer do the same work. The repeated packing in salted ice was brigade scaffolding and can go; clothing the mould with coffee ice and enclosing a distinct Curaçao centre are the dish itself, and they stay. The active work fits one cook, one stove, one evening; the freezer finishes it overnight.
Treat the coffee infusion with particular care. Infuse the grounds in the hot syrup, then strain until not one speck remains, because a few grounds will turn the entire shell gritty and harsh. Freeze that shell evenly, about ½ inch thick, and the rest is patient assembly.
The bombe glacée belongs to the classical Parisian pâtisserie and dining-room repertoire, where contrasting frozen preparations were layered inside rounded metal moulds resembling artillery shells. Zamora is a French menu title rather than a traditional dessert of the Spanish city: coffee provides the dark shell, while Curaçao orange liqueur perfumes the rich centre. The cross-reference to a sole aspic concerns only the classical practice of clothing a mould evenly; none of the savoury preparation enters the dessert.
Quantity
2½ cups (600 ml / 600 g)
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 200 g)
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 45 g)
freshly ground medium-coarse
Quantity
5
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 100 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 57 g)
Quantity
1½ cups (360 ml / 355 g)
Quantity
1 application (No. 916)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| water for the coffee ice | 2½ cups (600 ml / 600 g) |
| granulated sugar for the coffee ice | 1 cup (240 ml / 200 g) |
| dark-roast coffeefreshly ground medium-coarse | ½ cup (120 ml / 45 g) |
| large egg yolks | 5 |
| granulated sugar for the pâte à bombe | ½ cup (120 ml / 100 g) |
| water for the pâte à bombe | ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) |
| dry Curaçao orange liqueur | ¼ cup (60 ml / 57 g) |
| cold heavy cream | 1½ cups (360 ml / 355 g) |
| Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles, mould-clothing method applied to coffee ice only | 1 application (No. 916) |
Set a 1½-quart (1.4-liter) metal bombe mould or deep stainless-steel bowl in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Chill the ice-cream machine according to its instructions, along with an offset spatula and a small container for the coffee ice reserved to close the bombe. Cold tools give you time to form an even shell before its surface begins to soften.
Combine 2½ cups water and 1 cup sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a full boil, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then remove the pan from the heat and immediately stir in the ground coffee. Cover and infuse for 8 minutes. Pass the syrup first through a fine sieve and then through a damp paper coffee filter without pressing the grounds. Inspect the last spoonful against the light; if sediment has collected, filter the entire batch once more. Ça se rattrape. Chill the clear coffee syrup until thoroughly cold, about 2 hours.
Churn the cold coffee syrup until it becomes dense and finely frozen, with the consistency of firm soft ice, usually 20 to 30 minutes. It must hold against a spatula without running. If it remains loose, transfer it to a shallow metal pan and freeze for 10 minutes, stirring once, then test it again.
Clothe the mould using the principle named in Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916), here applied only to coffee ice: nothing from the savoury aspic belongs in this dessert. Spread the coffee ice over the bottom and sides of the frozen mould in two thin passes, rotating the mould as you work, until the shell is even and about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. Hold it toward the light and patch every thin place. Reserve about 1 cup (240 ml / 240 g) coffee ice for the base, then freeze both the clothed mould and the reserve for 45 minutes. If the sides slump while you work, stop and freeze everything for 10 minutes before continuing.
Place the yolks in the bowl of a mixer and begin whisking at medium speed. Boil the remaining ½ cup sugar with ¼ cup water without stirring until the syrup reaches 244°F (118°C). With the mixer running, pour the syrup in a narrow stream down the inside of the bowl, avoiding the whisk itself. Increase the speed and beat until the pâte à bombe is thick, pale, and cool enough that the bowl no longer feels warm, about 7 minutes. If syrup strikes the whisk and forms hard threads, stop pouring, set the bowl briefly over barely warm water, and whisk until they dissolve; then resume beating until cool.
Whisk the Curaçao into the cooled pâte à bombe. In a separate cold bowl, whip the cream to soft peaks, supple enough to fold without leaving lumps, then fold one-third into the pâte to lighten it. Fold in the remainder with broad strokes until no white streaks remain. If the yolk base is still warm, chill it for 10 minutes before adding the cream; warm pâte à bombe melts the shell, but a short chill rescues it. Spoon the filling into the frozen coffee shell, pressing gently into the curve so no air pockets remain, and stop ½ inch (1.25 cm) below the rim.
Let the reserved coffee ice soften for a few minutes, just until spreadable, then cover the Curaçao filling completely and level it with the rim. Press reusable freezer wrap directly against the surface and cover the mould tightly. Freeze on a level shelf for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight. The Curaçao keeps the centre softer than the coffee shell, which is exactly the contrast the bombe needs.
Chill the serving platter. Remove the covering, wipe the outside of the mould with a cloth dipped in hot water for 3 to 5 seconds, and invert it onto the platter. If it doesn't release, repeat with the warm cloth in short passes; don't soak the mould or the coffee shell will melt before the centre lets go. Should the surface soften, return the unmoulded bombe to the freezer for 10 minutes. Cut with a warm knife wiped dry between slices, revealing the dark coffee ring around the pale Curaçao centre. À table!
1 serving (about 165g)
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