Bombe Pompadour

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1-liter metal bombe mould or deep metal mixing bowl
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Blender or food processor
• •Electric hand mixer or stand mixer
• •Instant-read or sugar thermometer
• •Ice cream machine, optional
• •Small offset spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the mould

   Put a 1-liter metal bombe mould or deep metal bowl in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Chill a shallow metal tray and clear a level space large enough for the finished bombe. Metal takes the cold quickly and releases cleanly later, which makes it the honest home equivalent of the professional bombe mould packed in salted ice.

2. 2

   Cook and sieve asparagus

   Bring the ½ cup water and 125 g sugar just to a boil, stirring until clear, then cool the syrup completely. Meanwhile, boil the asparagus tips in unsalted water until crushingly tender, 6 to 9 minutes; al dente asparagus makes a fibrous ice. Refresh them in iced water, drain thoroughly, and blot dry. Blend the tips with all but 2 tablespoons of the syrup until perfectly smooth, then press the purée through a fine sieve. Chill a teaspoonful in the freezer for 5 minutes and taste it. It must register as sweet first and asparagus second, because freezing mutes sugar and aroma. If it still tastes like vegetable purée, blend in the reserved syrup before committing the whole batch.

   Do not skip the sieve. The asparagus shell must cut cleanly beside the soft filling, and one stubborn fiber is enough to spoil that contrast.
3. 3

   Freeze asparagus ice

   Churn the cold asparagus mixture in an ice cream machine until it holds a soft ridge, about 20 to 25 minutes. Without a machine, pour it into the chilled shallow tray, freeze for about 60 minutes, then beat it vigorously with a hand mixer; freeze for another 30 minutes and beat again. You want a smooth, pliable ice that can be spread, not a solid block. If it freezes too hard, leave it at room temperature for 5 minutes and process or beat it smooth again. Ça se rattrape.

4. 4

   Clothe the mould

   Use the clothing principle from Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916): rotate the icy mould as you press an even 6 mm layer of softened asparagus ice over the bottom and sides. Reserve about one-quarter of the ice to close the base later. Inspect the shell against the light for thin patches, smooth the rim, and freeze it for 45 minutes. If the ice slides or tears, return the mould to the freezer for 10 minutes, then patch it with more softened ice. Ça se rattrape.

5. 5

   Concentrate the pomegranate

   Pour the pomegranate juice into a wide saucepan and simmer steadily until reduced to ⅓ cup (80 ml / 80 g), about 12 to 18 minutes. It should taste intensely tart and fruity but remain pourable. If it crosses into a sticky syrup, whisk in a spoonful of hot water. Cool the reduction completely; warm fruit would flatten the pâte à bombe and melt the cream.

6. 6

   Whisk the pâte à bombe

   Begin whisking the yolks at medium speed until pale and slightly thickened. Put the 100 g sugar and 30 ml water in a small saucepan and cook without stirring to 118°C. With the mixer running, pour the syrup in a thin stream down the inside of the bowl, safely away from the moving whisk, then beat at high speed until the pâte à bombe has tripled in volume, holds a broad ribbon, and feels cool, 6 to 8 minutes. If the syrup crystallizes in the pan, add a teaspoon of water and return it to the heat; if a few hard threads form on the whisk, stop, lift them out, and resume more slowly. Ça se rattrape.

   A thermometer earns its place here. The syrup must be hot enough to stabilize the yolk foam, but pouring it directly onto the whisk throws hot sugar against the bowl and leaves the pâte uneven.
7. 7

   Fold the filling

   Fold the cold pomegranate reduction into the pâte à bombe in three additions, keeping as much volume as possible. Whip the cold cream to soft peaks, where it bends rather than stands, then fold one-third into the pomegranate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remainder with broad strokes until no white streaks remain. The filling should be pale garnet, airy, and thick enough to mound. If it runs, set the bowl over ice for 5 minutes and fold gently until it gains body; do not whisk it into submission.

8. 8

   Fill and freeze

   Spoon the pomegranate pâte à bombe into the frozen asparagus shell without scraping the sides. Tap the mould once against a folded towel to settle any large air pockets, then stop about 8 mm below the rim. Soften the reserved asparagus ice just enough to spread and use it to seal the base completely. Cover the surface and freeze on a level shelf for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.

9. 9

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter. Wrap the mould in a warm, damp towel for 5 to 8 seconds, invert it onto the platter, and lift straight upward. If it refuses, repeat with the towel for 3 seconds rather than applying prolonged heat. Should the shell soften, return the unmoulded bombe to the freezer for 15 minutes. Cut it into six wedges with a sharp knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between slices. Serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose tightly closed, tender green tips and use only the upper, succulent part of each spear. Woody asparagus remains fibrous however long the blender runs. Out of season, plain frozen tips are an honest alternative; thaw, drain, cook until fully tender, and sieve them just as carefully.
• •Judge the asparagus ice with a properly cold sample. Put a teaspoonful in the freezer for 5 minutes before tasting, because a warm purée lies about how sweet the frozen shell will seem.
• •Use unsweetened, full-strength pomegranate juice rather than a mixed fruit drink. Reduction concentrates everything in the bottle, including dull flavors and added perfume.
• •Freezing does not remove the food-safety risk carried by raw eggs. Use pasteurized yolks when serving pregnant guests, older adults, young children, or anyone with reduced immunity.
• •A demi-sec Champagne works beautifully here. The gentle sweetness meets the asparagus ice, while the acidity keeps pace with the pomegranate.

Advance Preparation

• •The asparagus ice can be made up to 3 days ahead. Keep it covered in the freezer, then soften it for 10 to 15 minutes before clothing the mould.
• •The pomegranate juice can be reduced a day ahead and chilled in a covered container.
• •The assembled bombe can be frozen up to 2 days ahead. Wrap the mould well once solid so the asparagus shell does not collect freezer aromas, then unmould shortly before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 155g)