
Chef Juliette
The Making of Ices
Freezing is the recipe: pack ice hard with salt, keep the canister moving, and scrape each frozen film into the base until the Glaces turn smooth, fine, and homogeneous.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2795, Glace Plombière, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Vanilla ice cream carries jewel-bright candied fruit steeped in kirsch, while thin apricot layers cut the richness. Freeze it in one mould, unmould it whole, and let every generous slice show the pattern.
Glace Plombière (moulded vanilla ice cream with kirsch-soaked candied fruit and apricot jam) teaches the discipline of temperature. Know one true thing before you warm the custard: the ice must be soft enough to spread, yet cold enough to hold each amber ribbon of jam. Melted ice cream and warm jam make a pleasant marble, but not Plombière.
The entry assumed a pâtisserie station with vanilla ice already churned, candied fruit soaking by the jar, and a lidded parfait mould packed in salted ice. At home, one ice-cream machine, an ordinary freezer, and a 1.25-litre metal loaf tin do the same work. The dedicated mould and ice packing are brigade scaffolding, so they can go; the kirsch maceration, vanilla custard, and alternating apricot layers are the dish, so they stay. One cook, one stove, one evening's work, then a patient freeze.
Unmoulded, the Glace Plombière should stand cleanly on its platter, ivory ice studded with candied fruit and crossed by clear amber seams. The one step that decides the pattern is chilling each layer until it can bear the next without smearing.
Glace Plombière is closely associated with Plombières-les-Bains, the Vosges spa town that claims the frozen dessert through its name and its tradition of welcoming well-fed visitors. The claim has never gone unchallenged: confectionery lore also connects plombière to the metal freezing mould supplied by tinsmiths. Whichever path gave the dish its name, the classical formula settled around vanilla ice, kirsch-macerated candied fruit, and apricot jam arranged in visible strata.
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 245 g)
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / 460 g)
Quantity
1
split lengthwise
Quantity
6 (about 110 g)
Quantity
3/4 cup (180 ml / 150 g)
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.8 g)
Quantity
3/4 cup (180 ml / 120 g)
finely diced
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g)
Quantity
1/2 cup (120 ml / 160 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole milk | 1 cup (240 ml / 245 g) |
| heavy cream | 2 cups (480 ml / 460 g) |
| vanilla beansplit lengthwise | 1 |
| large egg yolks | 6 (about 110 g) |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup (180 ml / 150 g) |
| fine sea salt | 1/8 teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.8 g) |
| mixed candied cherries, orange peel, and citronfinely diced | 3/4 cup (180 ml / 120 g) |
| dry kirsch | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 42 g) |
| smooth apricot jam | 1/2 cup (120 ml / 160 g) |
Combine the diced candied fruit and kirsch in a small bowl. Cover and leave for at least 1 hour, stirring once or twice, until the fruit is glossy, fragrant, and pleasantly sharp with cherry spirit. The fruit may macerate overnight in the cold, but bring it back to cool room temperature before folding it into the ice cream.
Put the milk, cream, vanilla bean, and scraped seeds in a saucepan. Warm gently until small bubbles gather at the edge, then remove from the heat and infuse for 15 minutes. Whisk the yolks, sugar, and salt just until smooth. Pour in the warm dairy gradually while whisking, return everything to the pan, and stir constantly over gentle heat until the custard reaches 82 to 84°C (180 to 183°F) and nappes the spoon, meaning it coats the back and holds a clean line drawn through it. Never let it boil. If a few fine curds appear, remove the pan at once, strain the custard into a cold bowl, and blend it briefly until smooth. Ça se rattrape.
Strain the custard into a clean bowl and discard the vanilla pod. Set the bowl over ice water and stir until thoroughly cold, then cover the surface directly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. A properly cold base freezes quickly into fine crystals; a merely cool one churns slowly and turns coarse.
Chill a 1.25-litre parfait mould or metal loaf tin in the freezer. Stir the apricot jam until smooth. If it is too stiff to spread, warm it only until loosened, press it through a fine sieve, and cool it completely before assembly. Warm jam melts the pattern before it has a chance to set.
Drain the candied fruit in a sieve for 10 minutes and blot away any liquid clinging to its surface. Do not pour the leftover kirsch into the custard, because excess alcohol prevents a clean freeze. Churn the vanilla base according to the machine's instructions until dense and softly mounded, then fold in the fruit quickly and evenly. If the mixture has become loose, place it in the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes, just until it holds the track of a spatula.
Spread one-third of the fruit-filled vanilla ice cream in the chilled mould, pushing it firmly into the corners, and freeze for 15 minutes until the surface feels set but slightly tacky. Spread half the cold apricot jam in a thin layer, stopping about 1 cm from the edges. Dot another third of the ice cream over the jam and join the dollops gently instead of dragging through them; freeze for another 15 minutes, then repeat with the remaining jam and ice cream. If a layer begins to streak, stop and freeze the mould for 10 minutes before continuing. The pause restores the structure without changing the flavour.
Cover the mould tightly and freeze for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. Chill the serving platter. Wrap the outside of the mould in a warm, damp towel for 5 to 10 seconds, invert it onto the platter, and lift carefully. If it refuses to release, warm the outside for another 5 seconds rather than forcing it. Rest the Glace Plombière for 5 minutes, then cut generous slices with a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between cuts. À table!
1 serving (about 155g)
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Chef Juliette
Freezing is the recipe: pack ice hard with salt, keep the canister moving, and scrape each frozen film into the base until the Glaces turn smooth, fine, and homogeneous.

Chef Juliette
Pack a prepared glace until no air remains, harden it under salted ice, and turn it out with one quick tepid dip: clean fluting, a close surface, and no hollow pockets.

Chef Juliette
One cream base, one fruit-syrup base, and the classical rule beneath both: sugar and yolks set the texture before the freezer does, so measure first and churn only when the balance is right.

Chef Juliette
The custard beneath every French cream ice: yolks and sugar drawn to the ribbon, hot milk added slowly, then gentle heat until the spoon wears a satin veil and never a bubble.