Glace Fleurette

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6-inch (15 cm) square metal mould or cake pan, at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep
• •Three shallow freezer-safe metal trays
• •7-cup or larger food processor
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Small offset spatula
• •Piping bag with a large star tip
• •Freezer-safe serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cold station

   Set the freezer to 0°F (-18°C) or colder. Chill a straight-sided 6-inch (15 cm) square metal mould, three shallow freezer trays, the food processor bowl, and a small offset spatula. Clear a perfectly level shelf for the mould; a tilted freezer shelf gives tilted layers before the fruit has any chance to object.

2. 2

   Make strawberry ice

   Combine the strawberry sugar and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then cook for 1 minute. Cool the syrup until barely warm. Blend it with the strawberries, lemon juice, and a small pinch of salt until completely smooth, then press through a fine sieve to remove the seeds. Pour the mixture into a shallow tray and chill it before freezing.

3. 3

   Make pineapple ice

   Rinse the saucepan, then combine the pineapple sugar and water. Bring to a simmer, dissolve the sugar, and cook for 1 minute. Cool until barely warm, then blend with the pineapple, lemon juice, and another small pinch of salt until no fibres remain visible. Pour into the second shallow tray. Pineapple carries more fibre than strawberry, so give it the full blending time; an uneven purée makes a rough layer.

4. 4

   Make lemon ice

   Combine the lemon-ice water, sugar, zest, and remaining salt in the rinsed saucepan. Simmer for 1 minute, cover, and leave the zest to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain, cool completely, and stir in the lemon juice. Pour into the third shallow tray. Adding the juice after cooling keeps its flavour bright rather than cooked.

5. 5

   Freeze and smooth

   Freeze all three trays until the mixtures are firm at the edges and solid enough to cut into chunks, about 2½ to 3½ hours. Process the strawberry ice until dense, smooth, and able to hold a soft peak, then repeat with the pineapple ice in the cleaned processor. Divide each flavour into three equal portions, about 215 g apiece, and keep them frozen in separate chilled containers. Leave the lemon ice in its tray for now. If either fruit ice crumbles instead of smoothing, let the chunks stand for 3 minutes and process again. If it turns slushy, return it to the freezer for 15 minutes. Ça se rattrape.

6. 6

   Build exact layers

   Spread one portion of strawberry ice across the bottom of the chilled mould, pushing it firmly into every corner and levelling it into an even layer with the chilled spatula. Freeze for 25 to 30 minutes, until the surface resists a light fingertip. Soften one portion of pineapple ice just until spreadable and level it over the strawberry. Continue alternating strawberry and pineapple until all six layers are built, finishing with pineapple. Do not add a new layer over a soft one. If the colours smear, stop, freeze the mould for 15 minutes, lift away the mixed patch, and fill it with the correct ice before levelling again. The even layers are the dish.

   Weighing the portions is the cleanest route to equal bands. If you work by eye, mark six equal intervals inside the mould before beginning.
7. 7

   Set the mould

   Smooth the final surface, press a square of parchment directly against it, and wrap the mould tightly. Freeze on the level shelf for at least 2 hours, until hard through the centre. This final set binds the layers firmly enough to survive turning out and slicing.

8. 8

   Turn out and decorate

   Process the lemon ice until smooth and firm enough to pipe, then place it in a chilled piping bag fitted with a large star tip. Remove the parchment from the mould, dip the outside in barely warm water for 5 seconds, dry it, and invert it onto a chilled platter. If it clings, repeat in 2-second intervals; holding it in the water until the edges run will blur the square. Pipe small lemon-ice rosettes around the top. If they slump, scrape them back into the bowl, freeze the lemon ice for 10 minutes, and pipe again. Return the decorated Glace Fleurette to the freezer for 20 minutes.

9. 9

   Temper and slice

   Let the Glace Fleurette stand at room temperature for 8 to 10 minutes, just until a knife enters without cracking the layers. Warm a heavy knife under hot water, dry it thoroughly, and cut straight down, cleaning and warming the blade between slices. Serve on chilled plates with the alternating bands fully visible. Nothing else belongs on it. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Sugar is structure in a fruit ice, not decoration. Reducing it sharply makes the mould freeze hard, icy, and difficult to slice; keep the measured quantities.
• •Fresh strawberries are splendid in season, but frozen berries thawed with all their juices are the honest choice when fresh ones smell of nothing. For pineapple, juice-packed canned fruit may replace a tired fresh one; drain it well, weigh 400 g, and avoid fruit packed in syrup.
• •Use a metal mould with truly straight sides. Glass releases reluctantly and warms too slowly, while a deep loaf tin gives you a rectangle rather than the square specified by the dish.
• •A demi-sec Champagne has enough fruit and sweetness to sit beside the strawberry and pineapple without making the lemon taste severe. Serve it well chilled, or let the Glace Fleurette stand alone.

Advance Preparation

• •The three fruit-ice bases can be prepared and frozen in their shallow trays up to 2 days before processing and layering. Cover them once firm so they do not collect freezer aromas.
• •The layered mould can be assembled up to 3 days ahead. Press parchment against the exposed surface and wrap the mould tightly after its final set.
• •Turn out and decorate up to 4 hours before serving, then keep the finished Glace Fleurette hard frozen. Temper it only once, immediately before slicing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 190g)