Glace Dora

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1.25-litre (5-cup) metal Madeleine-mould, fluted mould, or narrow metal loaf tin
• •Electric hand mixer or balloon whisk
• •Flexible spatula
• •Thin slicing knife
• •Chilled oval serving platter

Instructions

1. 1

   Chill mould and fruit

   Set a 1.25-litre Madeleine-mould, meaning one large narrow scallop-shell mould, or a similarly sized fluted metal mould in the freezer for 20 minutes. Drain the pineapple, spread the dice over a clean towel, and blot until their surfaces no longer shine. Water becomes hard ice inside the Chantilly, so dryness matters more than whether the pineapple is fresh or preserved. Stir the Bar-le-Duc jam gently to loosen it without crushing the currants.

2. 2

   Clothe the mould

   Reserve 1 cup (240 ml) of the vanilla ice cream in the freezer for sealing the base. Let the remaining 2 cups (480 ml) soften only until a spoon passes through with resistance, never until liquid. The book points to Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916) for the principle of clothing the mould: press an even 8 to 10 mm layer over the bottom and sides, following every ridge and carrying it fully to the rim. Freeze for 45 to 60 minutes, until hard. If you find a thin patch, don't add soft ice cream and continue. Ça se rattrape: freeze the shell first, patch the bare place with a little more softened ice cream, then freeze again.

3. 3

   Whip the Chantilly

   Pour 1 cup (240 ml) of the cream into a cold bowl and keep the remaining 2 tablespoons cold for rescue. Add the icing sugar and whisk until the cream forms soft peaks. Drizzle in the kirsch while whisking, then stop at medium peaks that hold their curve without looking dry. This Chantilly is the filling's structure. If it turns grainy from overwhipping, stop immediately. Ça se rattrape: fold in the reserved cold cream a teaspoon at a time until smooth. If the kirsch leaves it slack, chill the bowl for 10 minutes and finish whisking gently by hand.

4. 4

   Fold the filling

   Fold the cold, dry pineapple dice through the Chantilly with a broad spatula. Add the Bar-le-Duc jam and turn the mixture only three or four more times, distributing the preserve while leaving some garnet streaks and whole currants visible. Work lightly. Crushed pineapple releases juice, and heavy stirring knocks out the air that keeps the centre softer than the vanilla shell. If the filling begins to slump, return the entire bowl to the freezer for 10 minutes before continuing.

5. 5

   Fill and seal

   Spoon the filling into the frozen shell, pressing it carefully into the scalloped ends without flattening the Chantilly. Leave about 1 cm below the rim and freeze for 30 minutes, just until the surface is firm. Soften the reserved vanilla ice cream and spread it over the filling as a complete lid, meeting the frozen shell at every edge. Smooth the base level so the Glace Dora will stand without rocking.

6. 6

   Freeze until firm

   Cover the mould and freeze it level for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. The kirsch keeps the Chantilly centre a little softer than the vanilla clothing, which is precisely the contrast wanted. Don't compensate by adding more ice cream or reducing the kirsch; the firm outer shell carries the softer heart.

7. 7

   Unmould and serve

   Chill the serving platter for 15 minutes. Dip only the outside of the mould into lukewarm water for 5 seconds, dry it, invert it over the platter, and lift gently. If it holds, repeat for 2 seconds rather than forcing it. Should the ridges soften during release, return the unmoulded dessert to the freezer for 10 minutes. Cut with a thin knife warmed in water and wiped completely dry between slices. Serve at once. À table!

Chef Tips

• •A traditional Madeleine-mould is one large narrow scallop shell, not a tray of little cake hollows. A 1.25-litre fluted metal mould preserves the ridged effect and releases cleanly; a narrow metal loaf tin changes only the silhouette.
• •Bar-le-Duc preserve is worth the search. Its clear garnet syrup and carefully preserved currants give both acidity and texture. If it cannot be found, use a fine redcurrant preserve with visible fruit; raspberry changes the dish more than people suppose.
• •Ripe fresh pineapple and pineapple canned in juice both work, but either must be thoroughly dried. Syrup-heavy fruit makes the filling cloying, while wet fruit freezes into hard crystals.
• •Use kirsch, the dry cherry eau-de-vie, not a sweet cherry liqueur. It should perfume the cream without turning it sugary, and because it isn't cooked, tell guests plainly that the dessert contains alcohol.
• •Choose a dense vanilla ice cream made with real cream. Very airy ice cream melts before it can be pressed into a sound shell, while an ice cream with a clean dairy flavour lets the kirsch and currants remain distinct.

Advance Preparation

• •Assemble the Glace Dora the day before serving. Once completely firm, wrap the mould closely and keep it frozen for up to 48 hours; longer storage makes the pineapple increasingly icy.
• •The mould can be chilled and the pineapple diced, drained, and refrigerated several hours ahead. Whip the Chantilly only when the frozen vanilla shell is ready to receive it.
• •Chill the platter and dessert plates for 15 minutes before unmoulding. This buys you a calm few minutes for slicing without allowing the scalloped shell to soften.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 153g)