
Chef Juliette
Various Almond Preparations
Five almond preparations, one discipline: remove the skins cleanly, dry every kernel through, then cut, toast, or cloak it in pale caramel without letting its fragrant oils escape.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2780, Glace Coucher de Soleil, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Strawberry fruit ice, fragrant with Grand Marnier, folded through soft Chantilly until it turns the coral rose of an evening sky, then heaped in chilled crystal bowls for a generous, quietly splendid finish.
Glace Coucher de Soleil (Sunset Ice) teaches one exact thing: Chantilly must meet the strawberry ice when the fruit is set but still supple. Freeze the purée solid and the cream collapses against icy pebbles; leave it liquid and the finished glace freezes dense. You want a thick, smooth slush that mounds briefly from the spoon.
The original preparation assumed a silver timbale kept over ice and a hand-cranked freezer that could be repacked for service. A stainless-steel bowl, the refrigerator, and a shallow metal pan in a household freezer do the same work tonight. I have halved the brigade proportions for four generous bowls, but kept their ratio intact. The silver and the management of fresh ice were scaffolding and can go; the cold maceration, fine sieve, staged freezing, and Chantilly are the dish and must stay. One cook, one stove, one evening, and for once the stove can remain cold.
When it is right, the glace is coral rose, close-textured but soft on the spoon, with ripe strawberry first and the bitter-orange warmth of Grand Marnier underneath. Watch the fruit during its first freeze. Catch that supple, spoonable moment and the rest follows beautifully.
Glace Coucher de Soleil belongs to the Parisian grand-kitchen dessert repertoire, where fruit ices were churned in ice-and-salt freezers, held for the dining room, and presented in crystal bowls. Its name is a service description rather than a regional claim: strawberry purée becomes the colour of a clear western sky when pale Chantilly is folded through it. The sunset tint comes entirely from ripe fruit and cream, with no colouring or elaborate layered mould required.
Quantity
1 heaped pint (475 ml / 225 g)
hulled
Quantity
1¼ cups (300 ml / 142 g)
sifted
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g)
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 240 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 15 g)
sifted
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 2.5 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| very ripe strawberrieshulled | 1 heaped pint (475 ml / 225 g) |
| powdered sugarsifted | 1¼ cups (300 ml / 142 g) |
| Grand Marnier | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) |
| cold heavy whipping cream | 1 cup (240 ml / 240 g) |
| powdered sugar for the Chantillysifted | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 15 g) |
| pure vanilla extract | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 2.5 g) |
Put a shallow 20 cm metal pan, a mixing bowl, the mixer beaters, and four crystal or glass dessert bowls in the freezer for 15 minutes. Cold equipment keeps the fruit crystals fine and gives the Chantilly more time before it softens.
Put the hulled strawberries in a stainless-steel or glass bowl. Sprinkle over the 1¼ cups powdered sugar and the Grand Marnier, turn the berries gently until coated, then cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. This cold macération draws out the juice without dulling the perfume; the berries are ready when they sit in a pool of deep red syrup and yield easily beneath a spoon.
Rub the strawberries and every drop of their syrup through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing firmly with the back of a ladle or flexible spatula. Scrape the thick purée from beneath the sieve and discard the dry seeds. Do not replace the sieve with a quick blending alone: the smooth, seedless finish is part of the preparation, not brigade ceremony.
Pour the purée into the chilled shallow pan and freeze for 45 to 75 minutes, scraping the frozen edges into the centre and whisking thoroughly every 20 minutes. Stop when the fruit ice is evenly cold, thick, and softly set, like a smooth slush that holds a furrow for several seconds. Do not let it become a solid block. If it does, ça se rattrape: leave it in the refrigerator for 10 minutes, break it up, and whisk until supple before continuing.
Reserve 1 tablespoon of the measured cream, then whip the remainder with the 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and the vanilla until it forms soft-to-medium peaks. This is Chantilly, sweetened vanilla whipped cream. Stop while the cream still looks satiny and bends at the tip of the whisk; stiff, grainy cream will not fold cleanly. If it begins to roughen, work in the reserved cold cream by hand until smooth. If the rescue was unnecessary, stir that reserved spoonful into the fruit ice.
Stir one-quarter of the Chantilly into the supple strawberry ice to loosen it, then add the remainder in two portions, folding broadly from the bottom until no white streaks remain. Work with patience, not force. The mixture should be an even coral rose and thick enough to mound softly; if it becomes pourable, return the bowl to the freezer for 10 minutes before giving it two final folds.
Transfer the mixture to the chilled metal pan, cover it closely, and freeze for 35 to 40 minutes, until it holds a spooned shape while remaining creamy. Heap it carefully into the chilled crystal bowls in small pyramids, exactly as the dish intends, with no unnecessary garnish. If a longer stay in the freezer has made it firm, let it soften in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. À table!
1 serving (about 160g)
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