
Chef Juliette
Apricots (Abricots)
Apricots peeled clean and poached just to tenderness, their golden halves held in clear syrup for tarts and cold sweets: a small lesson in texture, restraint, and knowing when fruit is ready.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2573, Pêches à la Bourdaloue, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Pêches à la Bourdaloue hides vanilla-poached peach halves between macaroon-rich frangipane, then takes a swift buttered glaze: pale crust, tender fruit, and almond cream in one generous Parisian tart.
Pêches à la Bourdaloue (peaches enclosed in a frangipane tart) teaches a pastry lesson more valuable than decoration: poached fruit must be tender, cool, and thoroughly drained before it meets a cream expected to hold it. Leave syrup clinging to the peaches and even excellent frangipane loosens around them.
The original entry assumed a pastry station already holding the complete Apricots à la Bourdaloue (No. 2549) formula, trays of poached fruit, and a salamander waiting for the final flash of color. At home, one 9-inch flawn-crust, three peaches in a snug saucepan, and an ordinary oven broiler do the work. The brigade scale and specialized equipment are scaffolding, so they go. The pale pre-baked crust, crushed macaroons folded through the cream, fruit enclosed between two layers, and buttered macaroon finish stay, because they are the dish. One cook, one stove, one evening.
Cut into it and you find coral-gold peaches held inside almond cream, with a tender crust beneath and toasted macaroon crumbs above. Poach gently, peel while warm, then drain the halves longer than impatience finds reasonable. That is the step that decides the tart.
Bourdaloue belongs to Parisian pâtisserie and takes its name from the Paris street where pastry cooks made the almond-and-fruit preparation famous. Pear is now its best-known fruit, but the classical Bourdaloue family was never limited to pears; repertories also carried apricot and peach versions, as well as molded preparations built with rice, semolina, or Génoise. This peach form preserves the defining Parisian method: vanilla-poached fruit enclosed in frangipane and finished with a swiftly colored gratin.
Quantity
1 home-scale formula for Apricots à la Bourdaloue (No. 2549), scaled to one 9-inch (23 cm) tart
apricot halves withheld; all other components prepared as its entry directs
Quantity
3 medium (about 1 1/3 pounds / 600 g)
Quantity
2 cups (480 ml / 480 g)
Quantity
1 cup (240 ml / 200 g)
Quantity
1
split lengthwise
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Apricots à la Bourdaloueapricot halves withheld; all other components prepared as its entry directs | 1 home-scale formula for Apricots à la Bourdaloue (No. 2549), scaled to one 9-inch (23 cm) tart |
| ripe-firm freestone peaches | 3 medium (about 1 1/3 pounds / 600 g) |
| cold water | 2 cups (480 ml / 480 g) |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup (240 ml / 200 g) |
| vanilla beansplit lengthwise | 1 |
Prepare the nonfruit elements of Apricots à la Bourdaloue (No. 2549) exactly as its own entry directs, scaled to one 9-inch (23 cm) tart. Have its flawn-crust baked without coloration, its macaroon-enriched frangipane ready, and its finishing macaroons and melted butter measured. Withhold the apricots. That separate formula is the foundation, so keep it whole rather than rebuilding it here.
Run a small knife around each unpeeled peach from stem to tip, following the natural seam. Twist the halves apart and remove the stones. Leave the skins on for poaching: they protect the tender flesh, lend the syrup a delicate blush, and slip away far more cleanly afterward.
Combine the water and sugar in a snug, wide saucepan. Scrape in the vanilla seeds, add the pod, and bring the syrup gently to a simmer, stirring only until the sugar dissolves. Let it simmer for 2 minutes so the vanilla opens into the syrup, then lower the heat before the fruit goes in.
Set the peach halves in the syrup in one layer and cover them with a parchment circle to keep their surfaces wet. Hold the syrup at the barest tremble for 6 to 12 minutes, turning the fruit once, until a small knife enters with slight resistance. Never let it boil hard. If a peach softens too quickly, ça se rattrape: lift it onto a tray with a broad spoon and chill it before handling; any small crack will disappear beneath the upper frangipane.
Let the peaches cool in the syrup just until you can handle them. Pinch each skin near the cut edge and draw it away; it should slip off nearly whole. If a patch clings, return that half to the warm syrup for 1 minute instead of scraping the flesh. Drain the peeled halves cut-side down for at least 15 minutes, then blot them gently. This matters most: syrup carried into the tart loosens the cream.
Complete the assembly prescribed for Apricots à la Bourdaloue (No. 2549), substituting the six poached peach halves for its apricots and changing nothing else. Spread its thin lower layer of macaroon-enriched frangipane in the pale flawn-crust, settle the peaches rounded-side up without crowding, then cover them with the same cream. The fruit belongs between the two layers, not displayed on top.
Finish with the crushed macaroons and melted butter specified by the referenced preparation. Set the tart about 6 inches (15 cm) below a fully heated broiler and glaze it quickly, turning the pan as needed, until the top is butter-gold with darker toasted flecks. Watch without leaving the oven. If one patch catches first, ça se rattrape: shield it with a scrap of foil and let the paler side color.
Set the tart on a rack and leave it for at least 45 minutes. The frangipane settles around the fruit as it cools, giving you clean slices instead of a soft spill. Unmold and serve slightly warm or at room temperature, generous wedges rather than timid slivers. À table!
1 serving (about 180g)
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