Apricots à la Cussy

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide 2-quart (2-litre) saucepan
• •12-inch (30 cm) ovenproof round platter
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Small offset spatula
• •Oven thermometer

Instructions

1. 1

   Poach the apricots

   Combine the water and sugar in a wide saucepan and warm gently until the syrup is completely clear. Add the apricot halves in one layer, cut sides down, and hold the syrup at the barest tremble for 2 to 5 minutes, turning once. Lift each half as soon as a small knife enters with slight resistance; the fruit must be tender but still able to carry its own weight. Cool the halves in a shallow dish with enough syrup to cover them. If one or two soften too far, don't discard them. Choose the eight finest halves for the crowns and reserve the softer ones for the salpicon. Ça se rattrape.

   Apricots can pass from firm to collapsed in a minute. Remove each half when it is ready rather than waiting for the whole batch to agree.
2. 2

   Bind the salpicon

   Drain the two remaining poached apricot halves well and cut them with the pear into an even 1/8-inch (3 mm) dice. This is the salpicon: distinct, fine pieces held together by sauce. Fold in the 2 tablespoons of apricot purée, using only enough to cohere the fruit into a spoonable layer. If it runs or sheds liquid, drain it briefly through a fine sieve and return only the fruit to the bowl. A wet salpicon dissolves the macaroons; a bound one softens them just enough.

3. 3

   Finish the apricot sauce

   Measure 1/4 cup (60 ml / 60 g) of the poaching syrup into a small saucepan and add the 3/4 cup of apricot purée reserved for the sauce. Simmer gently for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the sauce flows in a glossy ribbon and lightly coats a spoon. Pass it through a fine sieve, let it cool until merely warm, then stir in the Kirsch so its clear cherry perfume remains. If the sauce is thin, reduce it before adding the Kirsch; if it tightens too far, loosen it with poaching syrup one teaspoon at a time. Set it aside in a small pitcher.

4. 4

   Build the crown

   Heat the oven to 300°F (150°C), or 275°F (135°C) with convection. Arrange the eight macaroons flat sides up in a crown on a 12-inch (30 cm) ovenproof platter. Spoon a neat layer of salpicon onto each, leaving a narrow rim so the fruit cannot escape. Drain the eight reserved apricot halves thoroughly, blot their cut sides, and set one half cut side down on every macaroon. Press only enough to seat it; crushed fruit will leak beneath the meringue.

5. 5

   Coat with meringue

   Bring the finished Meringue à l’Italienne (No. 2383) to the platter and spoon it generously over each apricot mound, coating the fruit and salpicon down to the edge of the macaroon. Smooth it into an even layer about 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick, with low, soft ridges rather than tall points, since points colour first. If the meringue drags or tears, dip the offset spatula in hot water, dry it completely, and smooth the surface again.

6. 6

   Dry without colour

   Place the platter on the centre rack and dry the meringue for 8 to 10 minutes, checking after 6. It is ready when the surface feels dry beneath a light fingertip and remains satin-white. If an edge begins to turn beige before the coating sets, remove the platter at once, switch off the oven, leave the door open for one minute, then return the dish to the falling heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Ça se rattrape. A moderate oven is part of the dish; a broiler would colour the meringue before its centre dried.

7. 7

   Pass the sauce

   Let the crown settle for 5 minutes, then carry the platter to the table while the macaroons remain lightly crisp beneath their fruit. Pass the Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately so each guest can spoon it around, not over, the white meringue. Serve two pieces per person. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use plain almond macaroons, meaning single almond biscuits with a crisp edge and tender centre. Coconut macaroons bring the wrong flavour, while filled sandwich macarons are too delicate and sweet for the poached fruit.
• •Out of apricot season, use ten excellent canned or jarred apricot halves packed in light syrup. Choose eight whole halves for the crowns and dice two for the salpicon; drain them very well and use their packing syrup in the sauce.
• •Choose unsweetened apricot purée. Sweetened purée combined with the poaching syrup and meringue makes the fruit taste dull rather than generous.
• •An oven thermometer earns its place here. Many home ovens run hot at the low end, and this dessert gives you a visible warning: beige meringue means the oven is stronger than its dial admits.
• •The finished crown waits poorly because the fruit gradually softens the macaroons. Dry it as guests finish the main course, then serve within half an hour.

Advance Preparation

• •Poach the apricots up to one day ahead and refrigerate them in their syrup. Drain and blot them carefully before assembly.
• •Prepare the apricot sauce up to two days ahead and keep it covered in the refrigerator. Warm it gently until fluid, then add the Kirsch if it was not added earlier.
• •The salpicon can be mixed up to four hours ahead and chilled, but drain away any liquid that gathers before placing it on the macaroons.
• •Prepare the Meringue à l’Italienne (No. 2383) when ready to coat the assembled fruit. It spreads most cleanly and dries with the best surface while fresh.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 245g)