Timbale à la d’Aremberg

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1½-quart (1.4-liter) metal Charlotte mould, about 6½ inches (16 cm) across the rim, or a 6-inch (15 cm) cake pan at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep
• •Stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, or a large bowl for hand-kneading
• •Rolling pin
• •Medium saucepan with a parchment round
• •Rimmed baking sheet
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Warm rimmed serving plate

Instructions

1. 1

   Mix the pâte à brioche

   Stir the lukewarm milk, yeast, and brioche sugar together in the mixer bowl. Add the eggs, 2½ cups bread flour, and salt, then mix with the dough hook on low until no dry flour remains. Knead on medium-low for 6 minutes, until the dough grows elastic. Add the soft butter one tablespoon at a time, waiting until each addition disappears before adding the next, then knead for another 6 to 8 minutes. The finished dough should be satin-smooth and tacky but strong enough to gather around the hook.

   If the dough turns greasy and smears around the bowl, the butter has become too warm. Stop and chill the whole bowl for 10 minutes, then continue kneading. Ça se rattrape.
2. 2

   Rise and chill

   Shape the dough into a ball, cover it, and let it rise until about half again its original size, 60 to 75 minutes. It needn't double. Press out the gas gently, flatten the dough into a thick disc, cover, and chill for 30 minutes. Chilling firms the butter and gives you a dough that can line the tall mould without sliding down its sides.

3. 3

   Poach pears firm

   While the dough rises, combine the 2½ cups water, poaching sugar, vanilla pod, and scraped seeds in a snug saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook for 3 minutes. Add the pear quarters and cover them with a parchment round so they stay beneath the syrup. Poach at the gentlest simmer for 8 to 12 minutes, turning once, until a knife enters but still meets clear resistance. Lift the pears onto a rack, reserve the syrup, and let the fruit cool completely. Drain for at least 20 minutes and blot every surface dry.

   Pears rarely soften together. Remove each quarter when it is ready rather than waiting for the firmest one. If a piece becomes too soft to hold its shape, mash it into the sauce and leave it out of the filling.
4. 4

   Line the mould

   Set a rack in the lower third of the oven and heat it to 350°F (180°C), or 340°F (170°C) with a fan. Butter the Charlotte mould generously, brushing upward along the sides. Divide the chilled dough into two-thirds for the lining and one-third for the lid. On a lightly floured surface, roll the larger piece into a 16-inch (40 cm) round about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Lower it into the mould without stretching, press it into the bottom and sides, and leave about ¾ inch (2 cm) overhanging the rim. Patch any thin place with a scrap of dough, pressing until no seam remains.

5. 5

   Layer the filling

   Stir the filling jam until spreadable. Arrange a close layer of cold, dry pear quarters in the lined mould, keeping them about ½ inch (1 cm) below the eventual lid. Spoon thin ribbons of apricot jam between and over the pears, then repeat the pear and jam layers until the mould is filled to ½ inch (1 cm) below its rim. Pack the fruit neatly but don't crush it. Any syrup carried into the mould will soak the brioche, so blot again if the pears still shine with liquid.

6. 6

   Seal and vent

   Roll the reserved dough into an 8-inch (20 cm) round. Brush the overhanging edge in the mould very lightly with the sealing water, lay the lid over the filling, and press firmly around the entire rim. Trim the excess to about ½ inch (1 cm), fold it inward, and press again to make one continuous seal. Cut a clean 1-inch (2.5 cm) slit through the centre of the lid for the escape of steam. Let the assembled timbale stand for 20 to 25 minutes, just until the lid looks gently puffed.

   If the seam opens while the timbale rests, cover the gap with a thin scrap of dough dabbed with water and press it smooth. Keep the central vent open; the seal contains the filling, while the vent prevents pressure from tearing that seal.
7. 7

   Bake the timbale

   Set the mould on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Rotate it once after 25 minutes. The exposed lid should become deep hazelnut-brown, and a thin skewer inserted into the brioche near the wall, avoiding the fruit, should emerge without raw dough. If the lid colours too quickly, cover it loosely with foil and continue baking; pale sides mean the timbale is not ready to leave its mould.

8. 8

   Finish the sauce

   While the timbale bakes, combine the sauce jam with ½ cup reserved vanilla pear-poaching syrup. Simmer for 4 to 6 minutes, whisking, until smooth and loose enough to pour while still coating the back of a spoon. Pass it through a fine sieve, remove it from the heat, and stir in the maraschino liqueur. If it tightens too far, loosen it with another spoonful of syrup; if it runs like water, return it to the pan and reduce briefly.

9. 9

   Unmould and serve

   Let the baked timbale settle for 5 minutes, no longer. Wearing oven mitts, loosen only the upper edge with a thin knife, place a warm rimmed serving plate over the mould, and invert both together. Lift the mould straight up. If it resists, wrap the outside in a hot damp towel for 30 seconds and try again. Rest the timbale for 10 minutes before cutting with a serrated knife. Bring the warm maraschino apricot sauce separately and spoon it generously around each slice. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose Bosc or Conference pears that smell faintly ripe but remain firm at the neck. A melting dessert pear becomes compote in the syrup, while canned halves are generally too soft to support this timbale.
• •A Charlotte mould gives the classical tapered drum shape, but a deep, seamless metal cake pan bakes and releases the brioche honestly. Avoid a springform pan, since hot apricot can escape through its join.
• •Maraschino here means clear cherry liqueur, not the syrup from cocktail cherries. Add it away from the heat so its almond-cherry perfume remains distinct against the apricot.
• •Use a smooth apricot jam with enough acidity to sharpen the sweet pears. If yours contains large pieces, warm it gently and pass it through a sieve before measuring.
• •Serve the timbale warm with a demi-sec Vouvray. Its pear notes belong beside the filling, while its acidity keeps the brioche and apricot generous rather than heavy.

Advance Preparation

• •The pâte à brioche can complete its first rise slowly in the refrigerator overnight. Let it stand for about 20 minutes before rolling, just until it bends without cracking while the butter remains firm.
• •The pears may be poached one day ahead and chilled in their syrup. Drain them for at least 30 minutes and blot them thoroughly before assembling the timbale.
• •The apricot sauce base can be prepared one day ahead. Reheat it gently and stir in the maraschino only after taking it off the heat.
• •Do not assemble the filled timbale more than 30 minutes before baking. The fruit and jam eventually soften the raw brioche lining.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 310g)