
Chef Juliette
Almond Pudding
Six almond-lined moulds, gently poached until softly risen, with white-wine sabayon scented by orgeat. The lesson is simple and exact: the bain-marie must tremble, never boil.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2534, Soufflé “à la d’Orléans”, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Peach liqueur and kirsch perfume tender Reims biscuit, cherry and angelica inside a cream soufflé that rises gold above its dish, proof that moisture control, not ceremony, gives this dessert its lift.
Soufflé à la d’Orléans (a light baked cream pudding with liqueur-soaked Reims biscuit and candied fruit) teaches the discipline of moisture. The biscuit must drink peach liqueur and kirsch, then surrender every loose drop before it meets the base. Saturated gives perfume and tenderness; wet gives weight. That is the one true thing to know before touching a pan.
The original entry assumed a pastry station with cream soufflé-preparation ready in quantity, Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits within reach, semi-candied fruit already diced, and an oven held for service. At home, one small crème pâtissière, four egg whites, a straight-sided dish, and a properly heated oven do the work. The brigade batch is scaffolding and goes; the thick cream base, liqueur-soaked biscuit, one ounce each of cherry and angelica, and last-minute folding are the dish and stay. Scarce Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits become biscuits roses de Reims, their honest modern kin. One cook, one stove, one evening.
When it is right, the crown is butter-gold, the centre creamy, and the fruit arrives in ruby and green dice between bites of perfumed biscuit. Bring the base to lukewarm, fold without crushing those pieces, and bake at once. Most of all, drain the biscuit completely before you fold.
Soufflé à la d’Orléans belongs to the named-dessert repertoire of France’s grand pastry kitchens, not to the household cooking of Orléans. Its geography is carried by the Jeanne-d’Arc biscuit, identified in the canon as a Reims biscuit from Champagne, whose name evokes the Maid of Orléans; peach liqueur, kirsch, semi-candied cherry, and angelica complete the confectioner’s garnish. The title is an allusion rather than proof of regional origin, while the Soufflé itself uses the national French grammar of a thick cream base lightened with egg white and baked at the last moment.
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened, for the dish
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 25 g)
for coating the dish
Quantity
4 biscuits (about 1½ oz / 40 g)
cut into ½-inch pieces
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
drained and cut into ¼-inch dice
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 28 g)
cut into ¼-inch dice
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / 185 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g)
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g)
for the crème pâtissière
Quantity
3 tablespoons (45 ml / 24 g)
Quantity
3
Quantity
⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.7 g)
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
for the crème pâtissière
Quantity
4
at room temperature
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| unsalted buttersoftened, for the dish | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| granulated sugarfor coating the dish | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 25 g) |
| Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits or biscuits roses de Reimscut into ½-inch pieces | 4 biscuits (about 1½ oz / 40 g) |
| peach liqueur | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| kirsch | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| semi-candied cherriesdrained and cut into ¼-inch dice | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| candied angelicacut into ¼-inch dice | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 28 g) |
| whole milk | ¾ cup (180 ml / 185 g) |
| heavy cream | ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) |
| granulated sugarfor the crème pâtissière | ¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g) |
| cornstarch | 3 tablespoons (45 ml / 24 g) |
| large egg yolks | 3 |
| fine sea salt | ⅛ teaspoon (0.6 ml / 0.7 g) |
| unsalted butterfor the crème pâtissière | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| large egg whitesat room temperature | 4 |
| superfine sugar | ¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g) |
Set a rack in the lower third of the oven, place a rimmed baking sheet on it, and heat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Brush the softened butter up the sides of a 1-quart (1-liter) straight-sided soufflé dish, coat the interior with granulated sugar, and tap out the excess. The butter and sugar give the rising mixture something to grip, while a clean, straight rim keeps its path open.
Put the biscuit pieces in a shallow bowl and sprinkle them evenly with the peach liqueur and kirsch. Turn them once and leave them for 3 minutes, just long enough to become saturated without dissolving. Tip them into a fine-mesh sieve and drain for 10 minutes. No loose liqueur should follow them into the soufflé. If they still drip, spread them on absorbent paper for 5 minutes. Ça se rattrape, but don't squeeze them into paste.
Bring the milk and cream just to a simmer in a heavy saucepan. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks with the granulated sugar, cornstarch, and salt until completely smooth. Pour in half the hot milk mixture gradually while whisking, then return everything to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking without pause, until the crème pâtissière, the thick pastry-cream base, bubbles and becomes dense enough to hold the whisk's tracks. Continue for 1 minute to cook the starch fully, then remove it from the heat and whisk in the butter. If it forms small lumps, pull it from the heat, whisk firmly, and pass it through the sieve while warm.
Scrape the crème pâtissière into a wide bowl and whisk it every few minutes until it is lukewarm, about 10 to 15 minutes. It should feel no warmer than your hand; a hot base collapses the whites, while a cold, rigid one makes folding clumsy. Fold in the diced semi-candied cherries and angelica, keeping the pieces evenly distributed.
Whip the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the superfine sugar a spoonful at a time and continue whipping only until the meringue is glossy and holds a medium-firm peak whose tip bends slightly. Dry, grainy whites have lost the elasticity a soufflé needs. Stir one-quarter of the meringue into the crème pâtissière to loosen it, then fold in the remainder in two additions. Add the drained biscuit with the final addition and fold only until distributed. A few pale streaks are better than a mixture worked flat.
Spoon the mixture into the prepared dish and level the top without pressing. Run a clean thumb around the inside edge to make a shallow channel between the mixture and the rim. Set the dish on the heated baking sheet and immediately lower the oven to 375°F (190°C). Bake without opening the door for 20 minutes, then check. After 25 to 30 minutes, the soufflé should stand 1½ to 2 inches above the rim, with a deep golden crown, a gentle quiver at the centre, and no liquid batter on a thin skewer. If the crown colours before the centre sets, lay a loose sheet of foil over it after the first 20 minutes, without touching the top.
Carry the Soufflé à la d’Orléans directly to the table and spoon it into four dessert plates. The centre should be creamy and light, with ruby cherry, green angelica, and tender liqueur-soaked biscuit through every portion. It will settle when the first spoon enters. That is the nature of a soufflé, not a failure. Never apologize at your own table. À table!
1 serving (about 165g)
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