Mousseline Pudding

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •6-cup (1.4 L) deep heatproof ring mould or straight-sided pudding basin
• •Deep roasting pan, at least 2 inches (5 cm) deep
• •2-quart (1.9 L) heavy saucepan
• •Electric hand mixer
• •Flexible spatula
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Instant-read thermometer, optional

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare mould and oven

   Heat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Butter every hollow of a 6-cup (1.4 L) deep heatproof ring mould, including the centre tube and upper sides, because this pudding climbs. Set the mould inside a deep roasting pan and put a kettle of water on to heat, but leave the roasting pan dry for now.

   A straight-sided heatproof pudding basin of the same capacity is the honest substitute for a border mould. The shape changes, but the gentle poach and the half-filled vessel do not.
2. 2

   Make the yolk base

   Work the butter and powdered sugar together in a 2-quart heavy saucepan until they reach pommade, a perfectly smooth, ointment-soft consistency. Add the yolks one by one, stirring each in completely before the next. Keep the mixture smooth rather than whipping it fluffy; the beaten whites will provide the expansion.

3. 3

   Whip the whites

   Beat the measured whites in a spotless, dry bowl until they form stiff, glossy peaks. They should stand when the beaters lift but still look supple, not dry or clotted. Set them beside the stove so they can go into the warm base immediately. If a little liquid gathers beneath them while the base heats, whisk for a few seconds to restore the foam.

4. 4

   Warm to nappé

   Set the yolk mixture over medium-low heat and stir constantly with a flexible spatula, sweeping the bottom and corners. It will loosen as the butter melts, then gain a slight body after 4 to 6 minutes. Stop at nappé, the coating stage: a withdrawn spoon should wear a thin veil, and a finger drawn through it should leave a clean path. About 160°F (71°C) is a useful guide, but the spoon decides. Do not push for custard thickness. If the butter streaks out, pull the pan from the heat and whisk in 1 teaspoon (5 ml) cold water. Ça se rattrape. If a few cooked-yolk flecks appear, strain the mixture immediately into a cool bowl before folding.

5. 5

   Fold and half-fill

   Remove the base from the heat and immediately fold in one-third of the whites rather briskly to lighten it. Add the remaining whites in two portions, cutting down through the centre and lifting the warm base over them until no large white pockets remain. Pour into the buttered mould, filling it no more than halfway. This empty space is not caution for caution's sake; the expansion belongs to the pudding, and a full mould overflows.

6. 6

   Poach in bain-marie

   Set the filled mould in the roasting pan and pour very hot water around it to reach halfway up its sides. This bain-marie, a hot-water bath, protects the eggs from fierce heat and gives the pudding its tender set. Transfer carefully to the oven and poach for about 30 minutes. It is ready when well risen, softly springy at the centre, and a fine skewer emerges moist but without liquid batter. If the bath begins bubbling hard, lower the oven to 300°F (150°C) and add a little cool water; boiling water toughens the outer edge.

   Do not wait for a dark crust. A bain-marie keeps the pudding pale, and its spring and set centre are better guides than colour.
7. 7

   Rest and turn out

   Lift the mould from the bath and let the pudding stand exactly 10 minutes. Run a thin knife gently around the outer edge and centre tube, cover with a warm serving platter, and invert in one confident motion. If it resists, lay a hot damp towel over the mould for 20 seconds, then lift again. A little settling is natural. Spoon the prepared light Sabayon or fruit sauce into the centre and around each serving. À table!

Chef Tips

• •The source formula contains no vanilla, citrus, or spice. Keep it that way. Butter, sugar, yolks, and whites make the flavour as well as the structure, and the chosen sauce supplies the accent.
• •Weigh the whites if you can. The awkward half white is the price of halving the ten-yolk formula without changing its ratio: whisk one white briefly, then measure the portion you need.
• •Use a mould with at least twice the volume of the folded batter and fill it no more than halfway. If a little batter remains, poach it separately in a buttered ramekin rather than crowding the main mould.
• •A tart raspberry or apricot sauce gives the rich pudding a bright edge. Light Sabayon makes the more sumptuous plate, but it should remain airy and pourable, not thick enough to bury the mousseline.
• •With raspberry sauce, pour a demi-sec Champagne. With Sabayon, choose a fresh, lightly sweet white wine; the pudding is rich enough without a heavy glass beside it.

Advance Preparation

• •Butter the mould and measure the butter and sugar up to 4 hours ahead. Separate the eggs, cover the yolks and whites individually, and refrigerate them; let the measured whites stand at cool room temperature for about 20 minutes before beating.
• •A fruit sauce may be prepared up to 2 days ahead and gently brought to serving temperature. If choosing light Sabayon, prepare it during the final part of the poach and hold it only briefly.
• •Do not bake the pudding ahead. Its rise and tender texture are best within 15 minutes of unmoulding, although the sauce and every piece of equipment can be ready before dinner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 120g)