Carcasse de Volaille (Chicken Carcasses)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy rimmed half-sheet pan, about 13 by 18 inches (33 by 46 cm)
• •Broiler-safe stainless-steel wire rack
• •Poultry shears, pastry brush, and long metal tongs

Instructions

1. 1

   Trim the carcasses

   Set an oven rack about 6 inches (15 cm) below the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Line a heavy rimmed sheet pan with foil and set a broiler-safe wire rack on it. Pull or snip away dangling fat, loose skin with no meat beneath it, and any small detached bone fragments, but leave sound skin and every tender strip along the backbone and joints. Do not chop through the cooked frames. Pat them thoroughly dry so the mustard will cling.

   Trimming does not mean polishing the frame bare. If the carcass has already been stripped clean for stock, there is no dish left to make.
2. 2

   Make the sharp coating

   Stir the Dijon mustard and cayenne together until the pepper is evenly dispersed. Brush a thin, continuous layer over both sides of each carcass, reaching the skin and every pocket of meat without leaving thick mounds in the hollows. The mustard supplies the seasoning, so no extra salt is needed. A heavy coat burns before the frame heats; thin and even is the principle that decides the dish.

3. 3

   Grill the cavity side

   Arrange the carcasses cavity-side up on the rack with space between them. Broil for 2 to 3 minutes, watching continuously, until the coating has dried, blistered, and taken scattered chestnut spots. Rotate the pan if one end colors faster. Fierce radiant heat replaces the classical salamander, and it works quickly.

4. 4

   Bronze the meaty side

   Turn the carcasses with long tongs so the meaty, skin-covered sides face the element. Broil for another 3 to 5 minutes, until the mustard is deep ochre, the skin edges are crisp and bronze, and the scraps of meat are hot throughout. An instant-read thermometer inserted into a thick piece without touching bone should register 165°F (74°C). If the mustard blackens before the meat is hot, ça se rattrape: move the pan about 10 inches (25 cm) below the element, set the oven to 450°F (230°C), and heat for 3 to 5 minutes before giving it a final 20 seconds beneath the broiler. A few dark freckles are welcome; an entirely black crust is bitter.

5. 5

   Rest and share

   Let the carcasses rest for 2 minutes, then transfer them whole to a warm platter with plenty of napkins and a side plate for the bones. This is finger food: pull away the crisp skin and tender scraps, but never chew or swallow the cooked bones. Serve immediately while the mustard crust still crackles beneath the teeth. À table!

Chef Tips

• •This recipe begins where another ends, with carcasses from chickens gently poached without browning. A rotisserie carcass brings roasted flavors the source did not intend, while a frame stripped bare for stock has too little left to reward the trouble.
• •Use smooth, assertive Dijon mustard. Whole-grain mustard falls away from the irregular bones, and sweet mustard burns before the meat is properly heated.
• •Keep the broiler door closed unless your oven specifically requires it open, and never leave the pan unattended. Mustard moves from bronze to burnt with very little ceremony.
• •Serve the carcasses immediately with napkins and a cold, dry white wine. Refrigerated leftovers lose their crisp surface, though the picked meat remains useful in an omelette the next day.

Advance Preparation

• •Cooked chicken carcasses may be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen, tightly wrapped, for up to 1 month. Thaw frozen frames completely in the refrigerator before trimming.
• •The carcasses can be trimmed and arranged on the rack up to 6 hours ahead, then covered and refrigerated. Brush them with mustard and cayenne only when the broiler is hot, because this dish should move directly from coating to fire to table.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 165g)