Croquettes de Pommes de Terre

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Digital kitchen scale
• •Three 8-inch shallow dishes
• •Rimmed sheet pan with wire rack
• •5-quart (4.7 L) heavy saucepan or Dutch oven
• •Clip-on deep-frying thermometer
• •Wire spider or long-handled slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Shape the corks

   Line a tray with parchment and dust the work surface very lightly with flour. Divide the prepared Potato Croquettes (No. 219) paste into eight 2-ounce (57 g) portions, preserving the book’s service size, then roll each into a compact cork about 2½ inches long and 1¼ inches thick. Keep the ends flat and the surface free of cracks. If the paste smears or slumps, stop and chill it for 15 minutes rather than kneading in more flour. Ça se rattrape: cold firms the butter and yolks without making the center heavy.

2. 2

   Coat à l’anglaise

   Arrange three shallow dishes in order: flour, the prepared Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), and fine breadcrumbs. Roll each cork lightly in flour and shake off the excess, immerse it completely in the Anglaise, then roll it through the crumbs. Pat the crumbs firmly onto every side while restoring the cork shape. Inspect the ends and seams closely; a bare pinhole is enough for the purée to escape, so dab any exposed place with more Anglaise and crumbs.

3. 3

   Set the coating

   Place the coated croquettes on the lined tray without letting them touch and chill them uncovered for 20 minutes. This brief rest firms the filling and bonds the crumbs to the egg coat. The croquettes should feel dry and secure under your fingers, not tacky or loose.

4. 4

   Heat the fat

   Pour the frying oil into a deep, heavy pot, keeping the vessel less than half full, and heat it to 355°F (180°C). Very hot fat means controlled heat, not smoking fat. A thermometer is the honest home equivalent of the brigade fryer, and it matters here because cooler oil delays the setting of the egg coat.

5. 5

   Fry until golden

   Lower one croquette gently into the oil as a test. It should bubble briskly at once and begin taking color within 30 seconds. Fry, turning once or twice, until evenly golden, about 3 minutes, then drain it on a wire rack. If it splits, lift it out promptly, return the oil to 355°F (180°C), coat the remaining croquettes once more with Anglaise and crumbs, and chill them for another 10 minutes. Ça se rattrape. Fry the rest in two small batches, allowing the oil to recover between them; crowding cools the fat and gives you a greasy, fragile crust.

6. 6

   Serve at once

   Transfer the croquettes to a warmed platter as soon as the excess oil has drained. Serve them within five or six minutes, while the crumb coat is crisp and the buttered potato center remains tender. They need no garnish and no sauce of their own; they belong beside the roast or braise they were made to accompany. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Use fine, dry breadcrumbs and sieve out large flakes. A close, even crumb makes a stronger coat; coarse crumbs leave little channels where the filling can find the fat.
• •Weigh the portions. Eight equal 2-ounce corks cook at the same rate, which matters far more than making them geometrically perfect. Cooking well is not cooking fancy.
• •Keep the oil near 355°F (180°C). If the croquettes darken before three minutes, reduce the heat slightly; if they sit pale and drink fat, let the oil recover before adding another.
• •Drain on a wire rack rather than laying the croquettes flat on paper. Air beneath the crust keeps the underside crisp instead of trapping oil and moisture.
• •Let the main dish choose the wine. With roast poultry, pour a dry white Burgundy; beside beef, a light red with good acidity keeps the fried crust lively.

Advance Preparation

• •The Potato Croquettes (No. 219) paste can be prepared and cooled up to 24 hours ahead. Keep it covered against drying, then shape it while cold.
• •The croquettes may be shaped, coated with Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), and refrigerated for up to 8 hours before frying. Hold them in a single layer and cover loosely once the coating feels dry.
• •Fry only at serving time. The brigade could hold a fryer and a cook for the final minutes; the home table gets the better answer, guests seated first and croquettes fried last.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 175g)