Pommes de Terre Berny

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Digital kitchen scale accurate to 1 gram
• •4-quart (4-liter) heavy, high-sided saucepan
• •Clip-on deep-fry thermometer
• •Metal spider or slotted spoon
• •Wire rack set over a sheet pan

Instructions

1. 1

   Fold in truffle

   Put the cold croquette paste from Potato Croquettes (No. 219) in a wide bowl. Scatter over the chopped truffle and fold with a flexible spatula just until the black flecks are evenly distributed; overworking potatoes makes them gluey. The paste should hold a sharp ridge without slumping. If it has softened, spread it about ¾ inch (2 cm) deep on a cold plate and refrigerate it for 15 minutes. Ça se rattrape. Do not knead in flour, which would make the croquettes heavy; if the chilled paste still slumps, its drying must be corrected in its own preparation before you continue.

   The truffle proportion is exact: 25 grams for 200 grams of paste preserves the source formula's ratio of two ounces per pound.
2. 2

   Shape four apricots

   Weigh the truffled paste and divide it into four portions of about 2 ounces (56 g) each. With cool, dry hands, roll each portion into a seamless ball, then make it slightly plump and oval with a shallow dimple at one end, like a small apricot. Close every crack with your fingertips, because a fissure can open in the oil. Set the shapes on parchment and chill them for 10 minutes if your hands have warmed the paste.

3. 3

   Build almond crust

   Spread the almond splinters in a shallow tray and pour the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) into a second shallow dish. Dip one croquette into the Anglaise, turn it until completely coated, then lift it with a fork and let the excess fall away for several seconds. Roll it in the almonds and cup it gently between your palms, pressing the splinters into a complete, even shell without flattening the apricot shape. Repeat with the remaining croquettes, then chill them uncovered for 15 minutes so the coating settles. If the almonds slide, the egg layer is too heavy; drain the croquette again, return it to the almond tray, and patch any bare places. Ça se rattrape.

   Do not add breadcrumbs. In Berny, the almond splinters replace them and form the resisting crust that holds the potato together in the fat.
4. 4

   Heat frying fat

   Set a wire rack over a sheet pan. Pour the oil into a heavy 4-quart (4-liter) saucepan, where it should stand about 1¾ inches (4.5 cm) deep while leaving the pot well under half full. Heat it steadily to 350°F (175°C). A thermometer is the honest home equivalent of the brigade fryer: properly hot fat sets the egg coating immediately, while lukewarm fat soaks into the potatoes. Keep the pot handle turned inward, never move the pot once the oil is hot, and keep water far away.

   If the oil begins to smoke, turn off the heat and leave the pot untouched until the temperature falls. Smoking oil is too hot for both the almonds and the cook.
5. 5

   Fry at service

   Begin frying five or six minutes before serving, exactly as the formula directs. Lower the four croquettes into the oil one at a time with a spider, keeping them apart until the crust sets. Hold the oil between 340°F and 350°F (170°C and 175°C), and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, turning gently, until the almond shell is crisp and evenly hazelnut-gold. The five or six minutes are a service cue, not an instruction to leave the croquettes in the fat for six full minutes. If the almonds race past gold during the first minute, lower the heat immediately; if necessary, lift the croquettes briefly to the rack while the oil settles, then return them.

6. 6

   Drain and serve

   Lift the Pommes de Terre Berny onto the wire rack and let them drain for 60 to 90 seconds. A rack keeps the whole almond shell crisp; paper traps oil against the underside. Arrange them on a warm serving platter and bring them straight to the table. If they accompany a roast, keep its juices beside them rather than pouring the liquid over their crust. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Fresh black truffle gives the full earthy perfume intended here. If it cannot be had, a good whole preserved black truffle, thoroughly drained and weighed, is the classical pantry's honest answer, though its aroma will be softer. Truffle oil replaces neither its texture nor its perfume.
• •Commercial slivered almonds are often too thick. Choose the finest blanched slivers you can find and split any broad pieces lengthwise with a small knife; thin splinters follow the apricot shape and brown before the potato dries.
• •Use a scale for the four 2-ounce portions. Equal size is practical, not fussy: all four croquettes warm through in the same time, so no almond shell burns while another centre remains cold.
• •Pommes de Terre Berny suit roast beef, veal, or chicken at a special-occasion table. Give each guest one large croquette and let its truffle and almond crust provide the ceremony. Cooking well is not cooking fancy.

Advance Preparation

• •The cold croquette paste from Potato Croquettes (No. 219) can be prepared a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. The stated recipe time begins with that finished component ready.
• •Prepare the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174) on the day of serving, keep it covered and cold, and whisk it smooth before coating the croquettes.
• •The truffled apricot shapes can be formed up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerated under a cover. Apply the Anglaise and almonds 15 to 30 minutes before frying so the shell has time to settle without becoming damp.
• •Frying remains a last-minute job. Have the platter warm and the rest of dinner ready before the croquettes enter the oil.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 95g)