
Chef Juliette
Stuffed Onions
Oignons farcis teach the discipline of the shell: mild onions hollowed without weakness, filled with their own flesh and Duxelle, braised in butter and stock, then glazed until the tops bronze.
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Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2198, Pimentos Farcis, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Small green peppers, skinned and half-filled with buttery pilaff rice, then carefully braised in good stock until tender and glossy. The empty space is not thrift, it is room for the rice to finish cooking.
Pimentos Farcis (braised rice-stuffed green peppers) teach proportion before seasoning: half-fill them, no more. The rice must have room to swell while the pepper softens around it; crowd the shell and the filling bursts out before either is properly tender. This is the one true thing to know before touching a pan.
The entry assumes a salamander to skin a tray of peppers, a stock never off the fire, and a saucier free to watch the braise while another hand tends the pilaff. At home, a broiler, one small saucepan, and a lidded 30 cm sauté pan do the same work. Brigade quantity becomes twelve peppers because they fit one pan in a snug layer and cook evenly, one cook, one stove, one evening.
The separate rice station and perpetual stockpot are scaffolding and can go. Skinning the peppers, stopping the pilaff halfway, and braising in good stock must stay. When the peppers are supple and olive-glossy and the rice is tender to its center, spoon the reduced stock over them and bring the whole dish warm to the table. When you fill them, stop at halfway and leave the grains loose. That empty space is the dish.
Stuffed peppers sit naturally in the Mediterranean larder of Provence and the Comté de Nice, where the family of petits farcis uses small vegetables as edible vessels. The version codified here belongs to a plainer vegetable register, with half-cooked pilaff rice in place of the meat-and-bread farce often associated with Nice, and stock supplying the whole foundation. Its restraint is deliberate: this is a carefully braised pepper with rice, not a baked pepper hidden under cheese.
Quantity
12
washed and dried
Quantity
2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g)
divided
Quantity
¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g)
finely diced
Quantity
⅔ cup (160 ml / 120 g)
Quantity
2¾ cups (660 ml / 660 g)
divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon (5 ml / 6 g)
divided
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small, slender, carrot-shaped green frying pepperswashed and dried | 12 |
| unsalted butterdivided | 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) |
| yellow onionfinely diced | ¼ cup (60 ml / 50 g) |
| long-grain white rice | ⅔ cup (160 ml / 120 g) |
| good unsalted light chicken stockdivided | 2¾ cups (660 ml / 660 g) |
| fine saltdivided | 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 6 g) |
Set an oven rack about 10 cm (4 inches) below the broiler and heat it fully. Lay the whole peppers on a rimmed baking sheet and broil for 6 to 9 minutes, turning them as each side blisters and blackens in patches. The skins should loosen while the flesh remains firm enough to hold its shape. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover for 5 minutes, then rub away the skins with your fingers. If a patch clings, don't gouge the flesh; expose that patch to the broiler for another 30 seconds and try again.
Once the peppers are cool enough to handle, cut neatly around each stem and pull it free. Use a narrow spoon or the blunt end of a skewer to loosen the seeds and pale ribs, then shake them out without slitting the pepper walls. Keep the openings small and the shells whole; they must hold the rice through the braise.
Melt 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for 3 to 4 minutes without coloring. Stir in the rice and cook for another minute, until every grain gleams with butter and turns slightly translucent at its edges. This is pilaff, rice coated in fat before stock is added. Pour in ¾ cup (180 ml / 180 g) of the stock, add ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) of the salt, cover, and cook over the lowest heat for 6 minutes. Bite a grain: the outside should be yielding, with a firm white core inside. Spread the rice on a plate to stop the cooking. If it has gone nearly tender, ça se rattrape: cool it immediately, fill the peppers a little below halfway, and begin checking the braise after 15 minutes.
Lower the oven to 325°F (165°C). Rub the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) of butter across the base of a heavy 30 cm (12-inch) sauté pan. Spoon the pilaff loosely into each pepper, filling it to exactly half its internal height. Don't pack the grains. The empty upper half will look severe. It is exactly right. If you have overfilled a pepper, remove the excess now, while the remedy is still a teaspoon rather than a split shell. Arrange the peppers snugly in one layer with their openings tilted slightly upward.
Warm the remaining 2 cups (480 ml / 480 g) of stock in the rice saucepan and season it with the remaining ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) of salt. Pour enough around the peppers to come roughly one-third of the way up their sides, taking care not to flood the openings. Cover the sauté pan and braise in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, basting a little stock into each opening halfway through. The liquid should barely tremble. If it boils hard, lower the oven to 300°F (150°C) and add a small splash of hot stock or water. If a pepper splits, turn the tear upward and brace it against its neighbors; the filling will remain where it belongs.
The peppers are ready when a knife tip slips easily into the flesh and the rice is tender but still holds separate grains. Lift them carefully onto a warm shallow serving dish. Set the sauté pan over medium-high heat and reduce the braising stock for 3 to 5 minutes, until it lightly coats a spoon and gleams rather than runs like water. If it becomes salty before it gains body, stop reducing and loosen it with a spoonful of hot water. Spoon the stock over and around the peppers, allowing three per person. À table!
1 serving (about 200g)
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