Feuilles de Vigne Farcies ou Dolmas (Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide pan for parboiling
• •10-inch (25 cm) lidded ovenproof sauté pan
• •Slotted spoon
• •Small heatproof plate that fits inside the sauté pan

Instructions

1. 1

   Parboil the leaves

   Bring a wide pan of water to a gentle boil. Cut each stalk away flush with the leaf without piercing the blade. Parboil fresh leaves in small batches for 60 to 90 seconds, just until their green softens to olive and the thick centre vein bends easily; well-rinsed brined leaves need only 15 to 30 seconds. Lift them into cold water, then drain thoroughly and spread vein-side up on clean towels. Test one by folding it around a finger. If it cracks, reserve it for patching and choose another wrapper. Ça se rattrape. A leathery leaf that remains rigid must be discarded, because longer cooking cannot give youth back to it.

   Choose small, fine-veined leaves without papery edges. Large does not mean generous here; it usually means old.
2. 2

   Enrich the pilaff

   Fold the foie-gras purée gently through the cooled pilaff rice until every grain is lightly coated but still distinct. Do not mash it into a paste. Divide the filling into twelve level tablespoon portions. If it becomes oily or too loose to hold a mound, chill it for ten minutes so the foie-gras fat firms again.

3. 3

   Shape equal parcels

   For each dolma, arrange three leaves vein-side up with their stem ends meeting in the centre and their broad ends fanning outward, overlapping them to form a circular tray without gaps. Use four leaves when they are especially small. Set one portion of filling in the centre, then draw the leaves over it one after another, enclosing the rice completely and shaping a compact ball. Keep the parcels equal so they braise at the same rate. If filling shows through a split, place a spare leaf over the opening and fold again; never discard a parcel for one small tear.

   Firm pressure closes the parcel, but squeezing forces rice through the veins. Shape it as you would hold a ripe peach: securely, without crushing.
4. 4

   Pack with bacon

   Heat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Line the bottom of a 10-inch (25 cm) lidded ovenproof sauté pan with half the bacon, trimming the slices only as needed to cover the base. Arrange the dolmas seam-side down in one tight layer, pressed shoulder to shoulder so they support one another. Cover them with the remaining bacon, then pour in enough hot consommé to cover them completely. If the measured consommé does not cover them, move everything to a smaller pan rather than diluting the broth. If the bacon floats, hold it in place with a small heatproof plate.

5. 5

   Braise very gently

   Set the covered pan over medium heat and bring the consommé just to its first full boil. Immediately cover and transfer it to the oven. Braise for 35 to 45 minutes, until a parcel yields easily to the edge of a spoon and its leaves are supple through the centre. The liquid should barely move. If it churns, lower the oven by 25°F (15°C); hard boiling loosens the seams and makes the rice swell unevenly. Add a little reserved hot consommé if evaporation exposes the parcels.

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Let the dolmas rest, covered and in their consommé, for ten minutes. Lift away the upper bacon and transfer the parcels carefully with a slotted spoon to a warm shallow serving dish. Spoon over only enough clear braising liquor to leave them glossy, not swimming. Serve three per person while warm. The bacon has done its work in the pan; it is not the garnish. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Have the cooked pilaff rice, foie-gras purée, and consommé ready before assembly. They are finished preparations in the classical kitchen; making all three while the leaves wait would turn a small appetizer into a brigade exercise.
• •Fresh leaves must come from a culinary grapevine known to be unsprayed. Never identify an ornamental lookalike by guess. Outside the fresh season, choose the smallest supple brined leaves, rinse them well, and taste one for salt before using it.
• •Use unsmoked streaky bacon. Heavy smoke overwhelms the foie gras and muddies the clear consommé, while unsmoked bacon gives the gentle pork richness the source intends.
• •A smooth foie-gras purée belongs here. Coarse pâté remains in lumps among the rice, while an airy mousse brings cream and a texture the dish was not built to carry.
• •Serve these with a small glass of chilled Sauternes or a brisk brut Champagne. The first meets the foie gras with generosity; the second cuts neatly through bacon and rice.

Advance Preparation

• •The pilaff and foie-gras filling can be combined one day ahead and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator. Let it soften for a few minutes before portioning if the foie-gras fat becomes very firm.
• •The dolmas may be shaped and braised one day ahead. Cool them promptly in their consommé, cover, and refrigerate; reheat them gently, still covered with liquid, at 300°F (150°C) for 20 to 25 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 240g)