Chef Juliette
Suet Dumpling
Boulettes au suif, poached beside salt beef, turn equal weights of flour and finely chopped suet into tender, rich dumplings. Keep the beef liquor at a bare tremble and the old garnish works beautifully at home.
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Cœurs d’Artichauts à la Clamart
Created by Chef Juliette
Based on No. 2029, Cœurs d’Artichauts à la Clamart, from Le Guide Culinaire (1907) by Auguste Escoffier
Artichoke hearts, spring peas, and carrot settle into one buttered cocotte, cooking gently until tender before Manied Butter (No. 151) gives their clear vegetable liquor the lightest gloss.
Side Dishes
French
Easter
Dinner Party
One Pot
25 min
Active Time
35 min cook•1 hr total
Yield4 servings
Cœurs d’Artichauts à la Clamart (artichoke hearts with peas) teaches cuisson à l’étuvée, gentle covered cooking in very little liquid. The one true thing to know before you touch the pan is this: the pot must only murmur. A boil knocks the tender hearts about, dulls the peas, and spends the small clear liquor that must become the sauce.
The original kitchen assumed a steamer large enough to hold the cocotte and beurre manié (kneaded butter), preserved as Manied Butter (No. 151), ready for a last-minute liaison. Your home equivalent is a heavy lidded cocotte on the lowest burner and one small measured portion of that finished butter. The large steamer and brigade batch are scaffolding. The covered cuisson and off-boil liaison are the dish, so those stay. One cook, one stove, one evening.
The original uses water, not stock, and that restraint is deliberate: the artichokes, peas, and carrot make their own liquor. At the finish, stop every bubble before you bind it. The liaison must leave a light buttered gloss, not a floury sauce; that is the step that decides the dish.
In classical French nomenclature, à la Clamart signals green peas and takes its name from Clamart, the market-gardening commune southwest of Paris that supplied the capital’s tables for generations. The name does not mean any green vegetable garnish: peas are the defining ingredient, often married with artichoke bottoms because their mild hollows hold the sweet peas neatly. This entry carries that pairing into a cocotte side dish, where artichokes, carrot, and peas cook together in their own buttered liquor.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
very tender small globe artichokes
Quantity
4
unsalted butter
Quantity
1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g)
softened
small carrot
Quantity
1
peeled and quartered lengthwise
freshly shelled peas
Quantity
¾ cup (180 ml / 110 g)
measured as 3 tablespoons per artichoke
water
Quantity
½ cup (120 ml / 120 g), plus up to 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) if needed
bouquet garni
Quantity
1 large
4 parsley stems, 2 thyme sprigs, and 1 bay leaf, tied
fine salt
Quantity
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| very tender small globe artichokes | 4 |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 14 g) |
| small carrotpeeled and quartered lengthwise | 1 |
| freshly shelled peasmeasured as 3 tablespoons per artichoke | ¾ cup (180 ml / 110 g) |
| water | ½ cup (120 ml / 120 g), plus up to 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) if needed |
| bouquet garni4 parsley stems, 2 thyme sprigs, and 1 bay leaf, tied | 1 large |
| fine salt | ½ teaspoon (2.5 ml / 3 g) |
| Manied Buttercool-soft | 2 teaspoons (10 ml / 10 g) Manied Butter (No. 151) |
Equipment Needed
- •3-quart (2.8-liter) heavy cocotte with a tight-fitting lid
- •Sharp paring knife and sturdy teaspoon for trimming the artichokes
- •Wooden spoon
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the cocotte
Rub the softened butter generously over the bottom and lower sides of a 3-quart cocotte. Pour in the water and keep the lid beside you. The trimmed artichokes will go directly into this shallow liquid, which limits browning without introducing lemon or another flavour the preparation does not call for.
- 2
Trim the artichokes
Work on one artichoke at a time. Pull away the tough dark outer leaves until the tender pale leaves appear, shorten the stem to about 1 inch, and pare away its fibrous skin and any dark green flesh around the base. Slice off the upper third. If you find a developed fuzzy choke, scoop it out carefully with a teaspoon; very young artichokes may have none. Put each compact heart straight into the cocotte, cut side down, and replace the lid while you trim the next.
Choose artichokes of equal size, tight-leaved and heavy in the hand. One oversized heart delays the whole pot while the peas surrender around it. - 3
Arrange the Clamart
Set the artichoke hearts upright and tuck the carrot quarters between them. Distribute the peas evenly, keeping the book’s ratio of 3 tablespoons around each artichoke, then add the bouquet garni and sprinkle over the salt. Cover tightly. Do not add stock. Water allows the clean taste of the vegetables and butter to remain the whole foundation.
- 4
Cook à l’étuvée
Set the covered cocotte over medium-low heat only until the liquor begins to shiver at the edge, then reduce the burner to its lowest setting. Cook without stirring for 25 to 35 minutes, turning the cocotte a quarter turn occasionally if your burner heats unevenly. The hearts are ready when a paring knife enters their thick bases with little resistance, the carrot is tender, and the peas remain whole. If the pot threatens to dry before the artichokes are tender, add 1 tablespoon (15 ml / 15 g) hot water and cover again. If it boils hard, pull it off the burner at once and add the same spoonful of water to calm it. Ça se rattrape.
- 5
Bind off the boil
Remove and discard the bouquet garni, then take the cocotte completely off the heat and wait until every bubble stops. Tilt the pot slightly so the liquor gathers at one side. Work in 1 teaspoon (5 ml / 5 g) of the Manied Butter (No. 151), pressing it against the warm wall of the cocotte with a wooden spoon until it disperses, then add the second teaspoon only if the liquor still runs like water. It should barely coat the vegetables. Do not let it boil after this liaison, or an unpleasant raw-flour taste can appear. If little knots form, press them against the side and work a spoonful of liquor through them; if the sauce becomes too thick, loosen it with hot water a teaspoon at a time.
- 6
Serve from the cocotte
Settle the artichokes upright, spoon the peas, carrot, and glossy liquor around them, and taste the liquor for salt. Bring the cocotte directly to the table while the vegetables are tender and the liaison still gleams. Cooking well is not cooking fancy. À table!
Chef Tips
- •Small, truly tender artichokes are essential because the peas cook beside them from the beginning. Large mature globes require too much time and may carry a heavy choke; save those for a preparation cooked separately.
- •Freshly shelled peas are the book’s choice. Outside their short season, frozen peas are the honest equivalent, but they have already been blanched, so add them for only the final 8 to 10 minutes. The timing changes, never the ratio.
- •Have the Manied Butter (No. 151) cool-soft and ready before you lift the lid. The vegetables wait poorly while you search the kitchen, and this liaison must be made quickly, gently, and away from the boil.
- •Serve this beside Easter lamb, roast chicken, or plainly cooked fish. Leftovers keep for 2 days when promptly chilled; reheat them covered over the lowest heat with a spoonful of water, never allowing the liaison to boil.
Advance Preparation
- •Up to 6 hours ahead, shell the peas, peel and quarter the carrot, tie the bouquet garni, and measure the remaining ingredients. Keep the vegetables covered and chilled, but trim the artichokes only when the buttered cocotte is ready for them.
- •The vegetables may be cooked up to 20 minutes before serving and held covered off the heat. Rewarm them over the lowest burner only until the liquor is hot, then complete the liaison with the Manied Butter (No. 151) at the last moment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 130g)
Calories
95 calories
Total Fat
4 g
Saturated Fat
2 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
1 g
Cholesterol
10 mg
Sodium
360 mg
Total Carbohydrates
12 g
Dietary Fiber
5 g
Sugars
3 g
Protein
4 g
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