Salade Parisienne

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •1-quart (1 L) smooth-sided Charlotte mould
• •Two nesting bowls, including one large enough for an ice-water bath
• •Balloon whisk
• •Chilled oval serving platter
• •Clean white linen napkin

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cold station

   Set a smooth 1-quart (1 L) Charlotte mould in a bowl of ice water, keeping the water outside the mould. Hold the fluid aspic jelly in a second bowl nearby. Arrange the langouste collops and truffle lozenges on a cold plate, then measure exactly ⅝ cup (150 ml / 100 g) of diced langouste. Spread the freshly prepared Salade de Légumes (No. 2011) in a shallow dish and chill it only until no warmth remains; its own entry calls for freshly cooked vegetables, while this mould requires them cool enough not to melt the mayonnaise collée.

2. 2

   Clothe the mould

   Use the mould-clothing operation from Another Method of Preparing Aspics de Filets de Soles (No. 916). Pour about ¼ cup (60 ml / 60 g) of the cool, fluid aspic jelly into the chilled Charlotte mould, then rotate and tilt it over the ice water until every part of the bottom and sides wears a thin, even film. Pour the excess jelly back into its bowl and chill the mould until the coating is firm. If the jelly runs straight off, the mould or jelly is too warm; drain it, chill both for several minutes, and begin again. If the jelly catches in ridges, warm its bowl briefly in lukewarm water and stir until fluid.

3. 3

   Set the decoration

   Arrange the langouste collops against the bottom and sides of the coated mould, placing a truffle lozenge neatly upon each. Fix every piece with a few drops of aspic jelly and chill until held fast, then spoon over another very thin veil of jelly to seal the decoration. Do not flood the mould. If a collop begins to float, drain away the loose jelly, chill the decoration until firm, and continue a teaspoon at a time.

4. 4

   Make mayonnaise collée

   Whisk the pasteurized yolk with the vinegar, salt, and white pepper until smooth. Add the oil drop by drop until the emulsion takes, then in a slender thread, whisking without pause until the mayonnaise stands in soft peaks. If it splits, stop. Ça se rattrape: place a teaspoon of cold water in a clean bowl and whisk in the broken mayonnaise one spoonful at a time. Measure 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 30 g) of cool but still liquid aspic jelly and whisk it gradually into the finished mayonnaise. This is the mayonnaise collée that will hold the filling without making it heavy.

5. 5

   Bind the filling

   Place the 2½ cups (600 ml / 425 g) Salade de Légumes (No. 2011) in a chilled bowl and fold in the measured ⅝ cup (150 ml / 100 g) of diced langouste, exactly one quarter of the vegetable salad by volume. Fold in three quarters of the mayonnaise collée, then add only enough of the remainder for the mixture to hold together when lifted on a spoon. It should cohere, not swim. If liquid collects beneath it, drain the filling in a sieve for two minutes, chill it again, and finish binding it with the reserved mayonnaise.

6. 6

   Pack the Charlotte

   Spoon the filling into the decorated mould in three additions. Press each layer gently against the sides with the back of a spoon so no air pockets remain, taking care not to disturb the langouste lining or crush the vegetables. Tap the mould once or twice against a folded towel, fill it to the rim, and level the top. Gentle pressure, not force. The vegetables should still look like themselves when the Charlotte is cut.

7. 7

   Chill it through

   Cover the mould without letting the cover touch the filling and refrigerate at 4°C (40°F) or colder for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight. The walls and centre must feel equally firm before unmoulding; a set exterior can hide a soft middle. If the centre still yields near serving time, leave it in the mould and give it another hour. Freezing makes the jelly weep when it thaws, so patience is the only proper finish.

8. 8

   Turn out cleanly

   Spread a clean, lightly dampened white linen napkin over a chilled oval platter. Dip the mould up to its rim in warm water for 3 to 5 seconds, dry the outside, invert it squarely onto the napkin, and lift straight upward. If it refuses to release, wrap the sides in a warm towel for another 5 seconds and try again; if the jelly begins to soften, return the mould to the refrigerator for 15 minutes before repeating. Bring the Salade Parisienne to the table cold and cut it into generous wedges. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Test the aspic before clothing the mould. Chill a spoonful for ten minutes: it should set clear and tender enough to cut cleanly, never rubbery. Cloudy or weak jelly cannot hide once it covers the langouste.
• •A good preserved black truffle is an honest classical-pantry choice when fresh truffle is not in season. Drain it and slice it finely. Truffle-flavoured oil cannot supply the dark, visible decoration the dish requires.
• •Spiny lobster gives the proper broad, coral-toned collops. If it cannot be found, cooked lobster tail is the source-approved replacement for the diced remains and a reasonable home substitute for the lining; shrimp changes both the structure and the dish.
• •Serve the Charlotte directly from the cold with a dry Chablis or another restrained, mineral white wine. It needs no loose leaves or extra sauce around it. The transparent jelly, langouste, and truffle have already done the decorating.

Advance Preparation

• •Prepare Salade de Légumes (No. 2011) no more than 4 hours before assembly. Drain it thoroughly, spread it in a shallow dish, and refrigerate until completely cool.
• •The clear fish aspic jelly can be prepared up to 2 days ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. Melt it gently and cool it back to a fluid, lightly syrupy consistency before clothing the mould.
• •Assemble the entire Charlotte the evening before serving and refrigerate it in its mould for 6 to 24 hours. Unmould shortly before dinner and keep it cold; do not freeze it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 305g)