Escalopes de Veau

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet
• •Flat-sided meat mallet or rolling pin
• •Three wide shallow dishes
• •Wire rack set over a tray
• •Wide flexible spatula

Instructions

1. 1

   Trim and shape

   Inspect each collop before you begin. Slice away every strip of silver skin, membrane, and connective tissue without gouging the meat; a thread left behind contracts in the pan and twists an otherwise even escalope. Shape the pieces into broad ovals or softly curved triangles, trimming only what is necessary. Exact geometry is brigade scaffolding. Even thickness is the useful part.

2. 2

   Beat evenly thin

   Lay one collop between two sheets of parchment and lightly dampen the upper sheet, the home equivalent of the moistened beater. Using the smooth face of a meat mallet or a rolling pin, strike from the center outward until the veal is an even scant ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Do not hammer holes through it. If an edge tears, overlap the torn section and tap it once to join it, then continue. Pat both surfaces completely dry after pounding because moisture would loosen the coating.

3. 3

   Set the panure

   Arrange three wide shallow dishes in order: the flour, the prepared Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), and the fine breadcrumbs. This is the panure à l’anglaise, the three-part coating sequence. The flour is not filler; it gives the egg preparation a dry surface to grip. Set a wire rack beside the station so the finished pieces remain dry underneath.

4. 4

   Coat à l’anglaise

   Pass each escalope lightly through the flour and shake off every loose patch. Dip it into the Anglaise (for Egg-and-bread-crumbing) (No. 174), coating both faces and the edges, then let the excess drain back into the dish. Lay it in the breadcrumbs, turn it once, and press gently with a flat palm so the crumbs adhere without becoming a heavy shell. Transfer it to the rack and let the coating settle for 5 minutes.

5. 5

   Cook without lingering

   Heat ¼ cup (60 ml / 55 g) of the clarified butter in a 12-inch (30 cm) heavy skillet over medium-high heat. It is ready when the surface shimmers and a dropped breadcrumb begins bubbling immediately, but the fat must not smoke. Lay in two escalopes without overlapping and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, until the underside is an even deep gold. Turn once with a wide spatula and cook the second side for another 45 to 75 seconds. If the crust colors too quickly, lift the skillet from the heat for several seconds and lower the flame. If the coating tries to slip, stop moving the escalope and let the first side set before turning. Ça se rattrape. Remove loose crumbs from the skillet, replenish the clarified butter, restore the heat, and cook the remaining pair.

   Very hot fat sets the egg-and-crumb coat on contact. Crowding lowers that heat, so two pieces per batch is discipline, not fuss.
6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Lift the escalopes to the wire rack and leave them unstacked. The crust should be crisp and butter-gold, while the veal beneath remains tender and may retain a faint blush. If checking with a thermometer, the thickest point should reach 145°F (63°C); rest the meat for 3 minutes. Transfer to warm plates immediately. If you offer a garnish or sauce, bring it in a separate warmed vessel and let each person add it beside the meat, never over the coating. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Ask for hindquarter cushion cut across the grain into collops weighing 3 to 4 oz (85 to 115 g) each. Fillet or saddle can be used, as the source allows, but the cushion is the customary and more economical cut. The butcher must remove the connective seams before slicing.
• •Use fine, dry breadcrumbs or fine raspings. Large fresh crumbs make a thick, uneven coat that drinks butter before it becomes crisp; the classical coating should be close and delicate enough to protect the meat without hiding it.
• •Clarified butter is not decoration. To prepare it at home, melt ⅔ cup (160 ml / 150 g) unsalted butter gently, skim the foam, and pour the clear golden fat away from the milky solids. Whole butter scorches at the heat this dish requires, and margarine has no place in the pan.
• •Keep every moist accompaniment separate until the fork reaches the plate. A dry garnish may sit beside the escalope, but a sauce poured over the crust undoes the technique in seconds.
• •A light Gamay or a dry Mâconnais white suits the buttery crust without overpowering the mild veal. Cooking well is not cooking fancy.

Advance Preparation

• •The veal may be trimmed, shaped, and beaten up to 4 hours ahead. Layer the pieces between parchment, cover, and refrigerate them flat; pat them thoroughly dry before coating.
• •Clarified butter may be prepared up to 1 week ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. Melt it gently before cooking.
• •The escalopes may be coated and refrigerated uncovered on a rack for up to 15 minutes before cooking. Do not cook them ahead, since reheating firms the veal and steals the crust.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 190g)