Filet de Bœuf Japonaise

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy covered casserole just large enough for the fillet
• •Larding needle or slim boning knife and clean chopstick
• •Instant-read thermometer
• •Potato ricer or sturdy masher
• •Eight 2½-inch (6 cm) grooved brioche or tartlet moulds for Croûtes et Croustades (No. 2393)
• •Deep 3-quart saucepan and frying thermometer
• •18 to 20-inch (46 to 51 cm) long serving platter
• •Fine strainer and fat separator
• •Pastry brush and sauceboat

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare linked components

   Complete the eight small grooved cases from Croûtes et Croustades (No. 2393) as their own linked preparation, then hold them uncovered in a dry place. Set out everything required for the home-scale Poëlings (No. 250), measured for the 2 lb (900 g) fillet. These linked preparations stay whole here because each carries its own method; the work of this dish is timing them together.

   The croustades may be baked ahead, but never refrigerate them. Cold storage introduces moisture, and moisture takes away their crispness.
2. 2

   Shape the croquettes

   Cover the potatoes with cold water, season with some of the fine salt, and simmer until completely tender, about 15 to 18 minutes. Drain well, return them to the dry pan over low heat for a minute, then pass them through a ricer or mash until smooth. Beat in 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter, the yolks, nutmeg, a pinch of white pepper, and enough salt to taste. Cool until manageable, divide into eight equal portions, and mould each into the shape of a small egg. If the mixture slumps, don't bury it in flour. Spread it on a tray and chill for 15 minutes; ça se rattrape. Chill the shaped croquettes for at least 30 minutes.

3. 3

   Clean the crosnes

   Put the crosnes in a clean towel with the coarse salt and rub them firmly so the thin outer skin loosens from their ridges. Rinse under cold water, then hold them in a bowl of cold water acidulated with the lemon juice. Simmer them in fresh salted water for 6 to 8 minutes, just until a knife enters with slight resistance. Drain immediately. They must remain themselves beneath the velouté, tender but not collapsing.

4. 4

   Lard and poële

   Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Use a larding needle, or make six narrow lengthwise channels through the beef with a slim boning knife and guide each chilled fatback baton through with a clean chopstick. Tie the fillet at even intervals, then season it with fine salt and black pepper. Carry out Poëlings (No. 250) in a snug covered casserole, scaled to this fillet. Begin checking the center after 22 minutes and follow the linked preparation through its uncovered coloring stage. Remove the beef when its center reaches 138 to 140°F (59 to 60°C), then rest it loosely covered for 12 to 15 minutes; the rest and final glazing should bring the larded meat to 145°F (63°C).

5. 5

   Build the velouté

   While the beef cooks, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 28 g) butter in a small saucepan. Stir in the 2 tablespoons (30 ml / 16 g) flour and cook this roux gently for 2 minutes without letting it color. Whisk in ¾ cup (180 ml / 180 g) stock a little at a time, then simmer for 6 to 8 minutes until the velouté coats the back of a spoon. Season with fine salt and white pepper. If it forms lumps, whisk firmly and strain it before adding the crosnes. Ça se rattrape. Fold in the drained crosnes and warm them at the barest simmer for 2 minutes; they should be cohered by the sauce, not drowned in it.

6. 6

   Clear the gravy

   When Poëlings (No. 250) is complete and the beef is resting, finish the gravy produced by that preparation. Strain it finely, let it settle briefly, and remove every visible trace of fat with a spoon or fat separator. If the gravy is thin, simmer it gently until its flavor concentrates and it lightly coats a spoon. If it tightens too far, loosen it with a spoonful of the reserved unsalted stock. Set aside 3 tablespoons (45 ml / about 45 g) and reduce those separately to a light syrup for glazing; keep the remaining gravy warm for the sauceboat.

7. 7

   Fry and fill

   Warm the finished Croûtes et Croustades (No. 2393) in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the frying oil to 350°F (175°C) in a deep, heavy saucepan no more than half full. Roll each chilled croquette in flour, then beaten egg, then breadcrumbs. Fry two or three at a time until evenly deep gold, about 3 minutes, and drain on a rack without covering. If the first croquette splits, lift it out, bring the oil fully back to temperature, press extra crumbs over any weak seams, and chill the remaining croquettes for 10 minutes. Fill the warm croustades with the crosnes and enough velouté to bind them, keeping their fluted rims clean.

8. 8

   Glaze and arrange

   Heat the broiler fully. Brush the rested fillet with the syrupy reserved gravy and set it about 6 inches (15 cm) below the broiler for 30 to 60 seconds, only until the glaze catches the light. This ordinary broiler is the home salamander. If the glaze slides away instead of clinging, return it to the saucepan and boil for another 30 seconds, then brush again. Transfer the whole fillet to a warmed long platter and arrange the filled croustades and egg-shaped croquettes alternately around it. Send the strained, completely degreased gravy to the table in a warm sauceboat. À table!

Chef Tips

• •Choose a center-cut fillet of even thickness. A tapered roast forces the narrow end to overcook before the center is ready; tie a thin flap underneath if necessary so the whole piece cooks at one pace.
• •Fresh crosnes should be firm, ivory-colored, and free of dark soft patches. Properly preserved crosnes in brine are an honest pantry answer when fresh ones are unavailable; rinse them well and warm them directly in the velouté because they're already cooked.
• •A narrow boning knife and clean chopstick replace the old larding needle. Keep the fatback very cold, because soft fat smears instead of passing cleanly through the channels.
• •The recipe clock assumes the Croûtes et Croustades (No. 2393) are already baked or prepared first from their linked entry. Their exact grooved silhouette is handsome, but small fluted tartlet moulds are the honest home equivalent if brioche moulds aren't in your cupboard.
• •Pour a red Bordeaux with freshness and moderate tannin. The beef can carry it, while the velouté and delicate crosnes ask for a wine that doesn't bully the garnish.

Advance Preparation

• •The Croûtes et Croustades (No. 2393) may be baked a day ahead and kept airtight at room temperature once completely cool. Refresh them briefly in the oven before filling.
• •The potato mixture may be shaped, breaded, and chilled for up to one day. Keep the croquettes in a single layer and fry them only when the beef is resting.
• •The crosnes may be cleaned and blanched up to 4 hours ahead. Dry and chill them, then warm them in the freshly finished velouté.
• •The fillet may be larded and tied up to 6 hours ahead. Keep it chilled, then remove it from the cold about 30 minutes before beginning Poëlings (No. 250).
• •The finished dish doesn't hold well as an assembled platter. Prepare every component ahead of its final moment, then fry, fill, glaze, and serve in that order.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 630g)