11 collections / 249 recipes
Central Mexico is the highland table where market antojitos, pulque, cemitas, maguey cookery, and the great poblano moles meet. These collections trace Mexico City, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo, Morelos, and the State of Mexico through breakfast stalls, fondas, bakeries, and feast kitchens.
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22 recipes
The antojito table of the highland valleys. Tlacoyos of blue corn, chalupas poblanas dressed in salsa verde, esquites under chile piquín, gusanos de maguey crisped in lard, and the small bites that open every comida from Puebla to Pachuca. The grammar of CDMX, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Morelos, and Hidalgo, expressed in masa, manteca, chile, and the pre-Hispanic pantry of the maguey belt.
26 recipes
The bebida tradition of Mexico's central highlands: pulque and curados from the Tlaxcala-Hidalgo maguey belt, the corn-built atole and champurrado, café de olla brewed in clay, and the aguas frescas of every CDMX table. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
13 recipes
The bread shelf of the central highlands, from CDMX and the State of Mexico to Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo and Morelos. The daily bolillo and telera, the pulque-leavened breads of Tlaxcala and the wood-fired pan de burro of Tehuacán, the hand-pressed corn tortillas of native Cónico and Chalqueño landraces, the highland wheat tortilla of the Hidalgo Sierra, and the great enriched showpieces: conchas, pan de muerto and rosca de reyes. The nixtamal grammar of the milpa highlands and the wheat that the Franciscans planted beside their convents, on one shelf.
30 recipes
The almuerzo table of the central highlands. Chilaquiles in salsa verde or roja, huevos divorciados over refried frijol, enmoladas drowned in Puebla mole, huevos en salsa de pulque from Tlaxcala, escamoles a la mantequilla from the maguey belt, barbacoa de borrego with consomé on Sunday morning in Hidalgo, cecina de Yecapixtla with crema in Morelos, crepas de cajeta from the Porfiriato fonda, and atole de amaranto from the chinampas of Tulyehualco. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
24 recipes
The dulcería of the convento poblano and the postre table of the Valley of Mexico. Camote poblano and jamoncillo de pepita from Santa Clara, alegrías de amaranto from Tulyehualco, capirotada de agua for Cuaresma, calabaza en tacha for Día de Muertos, the garibaldi born at El Globo, and the nieves de garrafa of Tepoztlán and Xochimilco. From Puebla, CDMX, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo, Morelos, and the Estado de México.
27 recipes
The plato fuerte of the central highlands, where Mexico's most baroque cooking lives. Puebla's banquet moles, the maguey-pit lamb of Hidalgo and the Estado de México, Tlaxcala's ritual mole prieto, the pre-Hispanic lake fish of the Valle de México, and the conventual dishes that built the Puebla baroque. From CDMX, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo, Morelos and the Estado de México. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
18 recipes
The pastry counter of the central Mexican panadería, from CDMX to Puebla, Hidalgo, and Tlaxcala. The French-rooted laminated pastries (orejas, campechanas, banderillas), the convent cookies (tortitas de Santa Clara, polvorones, cochinitos), the holiday fried pastries (buñuelos de rodilla, churros, hojuelas), the Cornish-descended bisquets and pastes of the Hidalgo mining towns, and the Porfiriato choux of El Globo. The enriched sweet breads (conchas, pan de muerto, rosca de reyes) live in the breads collection; this is the pastry case, not the bread basket.
14 recipes
The highland salad is nopal, not lettuce. Ensaladas from CDMX, Puebla and Tlaxcala: cactus and quelites greens, the fonda's seven-bean and potato salads, the crema-bound coditos and pollo of every fiesta, and the jewel-toned ensalada de nochebuena that anchors the Christmas table.
21 recipes
The everyday acompanamientos of the highland comida: frijoles de la olla with epazote, Morelos white rice, nopales asados, calabacitas con elote y rajas, ayocotes en adobo, and the gratins and stuffings of the convent table. Sides from CDMX, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo, and Morelos.
26 recipes
The caldo grammar of the central Mexican highlands. Tomato-pasilla sopa azteca, the chipotle caldo tlalpeño of CDMX, mole de olla with xoconostle, pozole verde poblano thickened with pepitas, wild- mushroom sopa de hongos from Tlaxcala, consomé de barbacoa from a Hidalgo pit, and the forgotten tlatlapas, sopa de médula and sopa de guías de calabaza that anchor this repertoire deeper than any tourist menu admits.
28 recipes
The street grammar of the Altiplano: the spinning trompo of CDMX and Puebla, the concave comal of suadero, the basket of tacos sudados, the weekend barbacoa pit of Hidalgo, and the torta and cemita roll-sandwiches that feed Mexico City and Puebla every day. Each handheld pinned to its state.
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