
Chef Makoa
Baked ʻUlu Coconut Pudding (Hawaiian Ripe Breadfruit Custard)
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.
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Firm Sāmoan ʻulu grated coarse, squeezed dry, and fried in coconut oil until the edges crisp and the middle turns soft, breakfast food from the canoe crop, easy enough for Tuesday.
The canoe didn't carry pantry items. It carried relatives. In Sāmoa, ʻulu, breadfruit, grows over the fanua, the land, and feeds the ʻāiga, the family, from the yard and the umu, the above-ground hot-stone oven. This hash brown is Sāmoa's everyday hand on that old tree: grate the firm fruit, salt it, press it flat, fry it until the edges talk back under your teeth.
A Sāmoan auntie once put a grater in my hands before she put a lecture in my ear, which is the better order, yeah? The lesson was simple. Don't treat ʻulu like a novelty. Treat it like food that has carried people. It can sit beside eggs on a weekday, beside tinned fish or corned beef and rice, beside palusami when the table is bigger. Deep food and everyday food are not enemies. That's how the islands actually eat.
Across the Triangle the names shift and the kinship stays. Hawaiʻi keeps ʻulu too, Tahiti says ʻuru, Tonga and the Marquesas say mei, and the Cook Islands say kuru, where the tree will bear and the people know its shade. One ocean, one canoe, one root. For Sāmoa's deeper umu work and the keeping traditions like masi, fermented breadfruit, go sit with Sāmoan elders and aunties who carry that line. This skillet version is the fresh-and-cooked table, warm, crisp, unfussy, and still tied to the tree.
Breadfruit, Artocarpus altilis, was one of the great canoe crops moved by Polynesian voyagers long before European ships made it famous through the 1789 Bounty story. In Sāmoa, ʻulu fed homes from the umu, the pot, and the preserving pit, with masi keeping breadfruit edible through lean seasons. Grated skillet hash browns are a newer house-kitchen face of the same crop, shaped by iron pans, weekday breakfasts, and the living habit of making old food fit the day in front of you.
Quantity
1 medium, 2 to 2 1/2 pounds
peeled, cored, and coarsely grated
Quantity
1/2 small
finely grated or minced
Quantity
2
thinly sliced, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1 teaspoon
plus more to finish
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/4 cup
for pan-frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mature-firm green breadfruit (ʻulu)peeled, cored, and coarsely grated | 1 medium, 2 to 2 1/2 pounds |
| onionfinely grated or minced | 1/2 small |
| green onionsthinly sliced, plus more for finishing | 2 |
| fine sea saltplus more to finish | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cornstarch or all-purpose flour (optional) | 2 tablespoons |
| coconut oil or neutral oilfor pan-frying | 1/4 cup |
Use mature-firm green ʻulu, breadfruit, with skin that has filled out but flesh that is still starchy, not soft and sweet. Oil your knife lightly if the latex is sticky, then quarter the fruit, cut away the spongy core, and peel off the skin. If the fruit is dripping milk, rinse the pieces and pat them dry. Eat what you have, but the ripe soft one belongs in dessert, not hash browns.
Coarsely grate the peeled ʻulu on the big holes of a box grater or with a food processor shredding disk. Gather it in a clean towel and squeeze hard until the shreds feel damp but not wet. This is where the crisp edge starts, before the pan ever sees it.
Toss the grated ʻulu with the onion, green onions, salt, and pepper. Pick up a handful and squeeze it. If it holds together, leave it alone. If it crumbles dry, sprinkle in the cornstarch or flour a tablespoon at a time, just enough to help the patties hold. No need make it precious.
Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and film it with coconut oil. Drop in loose 1/3-cup mounds of the ʻulu mixture and press them into patties about 1/2 inch thick. Cook without fussing for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottom is deep golden and the edges look crisp and lacy. Flip, lower the heat a touch, and cook 4 to 5 minutes more, until the center turns tender and creamy, with no chalky bite.
Move the hash browns to a rack or banana-leaf-lined platter and salt them while their surface still has that oil sheen. Scatter a little green onion over the top if you like. Serve them beside eggs, grilled fish, tinned fish, corned beef and rice, or whatever the morning table has. Sāmoa's hand, today's kitchen.
1 serving (about 170g)
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Chef Makoa
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.

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