
Chef Makoa
Baked ʻUlu Coconut Pudding (Hawaiian Ripe Breadfruit Custard)
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.
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Cook Islands kuru, breadfruit boiled tender, cooled, and tossed with crisp vegetables and a clean lime dressing. The canoe crop comes to the picnic table, unfussy and still full of mana.
The canoe carried this food before it carried any one of us by name. In the Cook Islands, kuru is breadfruit, that great canoe crop with green skin and a starchy heart, and when a family boils it, cools it, and tosses it into salad, the old food walks right into the modern potluck without making a speech.
I learned this one open-handed, sitting with Cook Islands cousins who treated kuru the way my own people treat ʻulu in Hawaiʻi, not as a fancy thing, but as food that knows how to feed a crowd. Tahiti calls its cousin ʻuru, the Marquesas know mei, Sāmoa and Tonga say ʻulu too. One ocean, one canoe, one root, and every island keeps its own hand.
The trick is simple, but no rush it. Boil the kuru until a knife slides through clean, then cool it enough that the cubes hold their shape. Toss it gently with cucumber, tomato, onion, and a bright dressing close to serving, so it stays fresh and not heavy. Eat what you have: beside grilled fish, next to chicken, with a plate lunch, under a tree, at the beach, anywhere the bowl can get passed from hand to hand.
Breadfruit was one of the major canoe crops carried through central and eastern Polynesia, planted from island to island for its reliable starch and its ability to feed many people from one tree. In the Cook Islands, fresh kuru belongs to the everyday table as much as to feast food, boiled, roasted, baked, or cooled into salads that sit naturally beside contemporary grilled meats and picnic spreads. Fermented breadfruit traditions such as popoi and masi are older keeping-foods across parts of Polynesia, but this salad belongs to the fresh-cooked table.
Quantity
1 medium, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for boiling water, plus more to taste
Quantity
1
seeded and diced
Quantity
2
seeded and diced
Quantity
1 small
thinly sliced
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely diced
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm-mature breadfruit (kuru) | 1 medium, about 2 1/2 to 3 pounds |
| sea saltfor boiling water, plus more to taste | 1 tablespoon |
| cucumberseeded and diced | 1 |
| ripe tomatoesseeded and diced | 2 |
| red onionthinly sliced | 1 small |
| green onionsthinly sliced | 2 |
| red bell pepperfinely diced | 1/2 cup |
| fresh lime juice | 1/3 cup |
| neutral oil or light coconut oil | 1/4 cup |
| honey or raw sugar (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| thick coconut cream (optional) | 1/2 cup |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
Cut the breadfruit into quarters, trim away the stem, and cut out the pale center core. Peel off the green skin with a sturdy knife, then cut the flesh into big chunks. Work clean and steady; the sap can be sticky, so oil your knife lightly if it wants to grab.
Put the chunks in a pot, cover with water, add the tablespoon of sea salt, and bring to a steady boil. Cook 25 to 35 minutes, until a knife slides through the kuru clean but the pieces are not falling apart. This is where you respect the crop: soft enough to eat, firm enough to hold the bowl.
Drain the kuru well and spread it on a tray until it cools to room temperature. Cut it into bite-size cubes, about one inch. If you dress it while it is too hot, it drinks everything too fast and turns heavy. Let it breathe first.
Whisk the lime juice, oil, honey or sugar if using, a good pinch of salt, and black pepper until glossy. For a richer bowl, whisk in the coconut cream too. Fresh coconut cream is beautiful here, but a good thick can does the job on a weeknight.
Put the cooled kuru in a wide bowl with the cucumber, tomato, red onion, green onion, and bell pepper. Pour over the dressing and fold gently with your hands or a broad spoon, so the breadfruit stays in clean pieces and the vegetables stay crisp.
Let the salad sit 10 to 15 minutes, just long enough for the lime and salt to settle into the kuru. Taste again before serving. It should be bright, lightly glossy, and clean, with the breadfruit still tasting like itself. Lay it out family-style beside grilled fish, chicken, or whatever the table has that day.
1 serving (about 250g)
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Chef Makoa
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.

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Tender slices of Tahitian ʻuru, breadfruit, baked in coconut milk until the edges go gold, with just enough cheese from the French island pantry to brown the top.

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Tonga's mei, firm breadfruit from the canoe-crop family, sliced thin and fried crisp for the picnic table: golden chips, salted hot, easy to share, kin to Hawaiʻi's ʻulu.