ʻUlu Croquettes (Hawaiian Breadfruit Patties)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 10-inch cast-iron skillet or wide Dutch oven
• •Instant-read thermometer for frying oil
• •Potato masher or sturdy fork
• •Wire rack set over a rimmed sheet pan

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the ʻulu

   Trim the stem end, quarter the ʻulu, and cut out the spongy core. Leave the skin on for now if it is easier to handle. Put the pieces in a pot, cover with water, add the tablespoon of salt, and simmer 30 to 40 minutes, until a fork slides through the flesh with no argument. Eat what you have: if the fruit is a little softer and sweeter, it still works, just mash it gently and use a little more breadcrumb.

   A mature firm ʻulu is best here, green to yellow-green outside and starchy inside. Very ripe soft ʻulu turns sweet and sticky, good for dessert, not ideal for croquettes.
2. 2

   Peel and mash

   Drain the cooked ʻulu and let it cool just until your hands can handle it. Pull off the skin, then mash the warm flesh in a wide bowl until mostly smooth with a few small pieces left. You want a dough that holds together when pressed, not a wet paste. No blame the ʻulu if it feels loose. It is telling you it needs more binder.

3. 3

   Soften the onion

   Warm the butter or oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Cook the sweet onion 4 to 5 minutes, until glossy and soft but not browned, then stir in the garlic for the last 30 seconds. Scrape that into the mashed ʻulu with the green onion, herbs, pepper, smoked paprika if using, the beaten egg, and 1/2 cup breadcrumbs.

4. 4

   Shape the patties

   Mix with your hands until the ʻulu comes together, then taste a small pinch and season with more salt if it needs it. Shape into 18 to 20 small patties, about 2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Set them on a tray and chill 15 minutes so they firm up. That little rest keeps them from falling apart in the oil.

5. 5

   Bread the croquettes

   Set up three shallow bowls: flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs. Dip each patty lightly in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs, pressing so the coating holds. Keep one hand for wet, one hand for dry if you can. If not, no worry, just rinse when your fingers turn into little breadfruit clubs.

6. 6

   Fry until golden

   Pour 1/2 inch oil into a heavy skillet and heat to 350F, or until a breadcrumb dropped in sizzles right away. Fry the croquettes in batches, 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown, crisp at the edges, and warm through. Don't crowd the pan. Crowding drops the heat and makes the coating drink oil instead of crisping.

7. 7

   Drain and serve

   Move the croquettes to a rack or paper towel and salt them while the surface is still glossy from the oil. Serve warm with lime wedges, chili pepper water, or a simple garlic aioli. Lay them out family-style, enough for the cousin who said they weren't hungry and still takes three.

Chef Tips

• •Source first. If you can buy ʻulu from a local grower or a cooperative in Hawaiʻi, do that before you worry about fancy technique. Food grown pono, in a pono place, already tastes better.
• •Frozen cooked ʻulu works well for a weeknight. Thaw it fully, squeeze off extra moisture, then mash and bind the same way.
• •For a dairy-free version, use neutral oil instead of butter. For a gluten-free version, use rice flour for dredging and gluten-free panko or crushed rice crackers for the coating.
• •These sit well at a potluck for a little while, but they are best within the first hour, when the outside is crisp and the inside still tender.
• •Don't call this an old ceremonial dish. The ʻulu is old. The croquette is the contemporary table doing its job, keeping the crop wanted by the next generation.

Advance Preparation

• •Cook and mash the ʻulu up to 2 days ahead; refrigerate it covered, then bring it close to room temperature before mixing.
• •Shape and bread the croquettes up to 8 hours ahead. Hold them uncovered on a tray in the refrigerator so the coating dries slightly and fries cleaner.
• •Fried croquettes can be reheated on a rack in a 375F oven for 10 to 12 minutes, until the coating is crisp again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 70g)