
Chef Makoa
Baked ʻUlu Coconut Pudding (Hawaiian Ripe Breadfruit Custard)
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.
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Hawaiʻi's local beef stew, tomato-rich and slow-simmered, with chunks of ʻulu taking the potato's place and thickening the pot like the canoe crop knows what it's doing.
My kumu used to say, eat what you have, and he meant more than clearing the icebox. He meant listen to the ʻāina, the land, and let the ground tell you what belongs in the pot. This is Hawaiian ʻulu beef stew, born from that kind of listening: local-style beef stew from Hawaiʻi, the tomato-rich pot so many families know, with ʻulu, breadfruit, standing where potato usually stands.
ʻUlu is not a decoration in this bowl. It is a canoe crop, carried across the ocean with kalo, ʻuala, niu, and the other relatives that kept the people alive. Tahiti knows it as ʻuru, Sāmoa and Tonga know the breadfruit too by their own tongues, and the old keeping ways like fermented popoi and masi remind us that this tree fed whole islands when the sea was rough and the store was empty. One ocean, one canoe, one root, and one tree throwing food from the sky when it is ready.
The beef and tomato, that's the newer table, the everyday Hawaiʻi table shaped by ranching, plantation kitchens, school lunch, plate lunch, and somebody's auntie stretching one pot for a room full of people. No shame in that. Keeper, not gatekeeper. The deep food and the everyday food sit together here, the ʻulu softening into the gravy, thickening it without needing to announce itself.
Cut the ʻulu big enough that it doesn't disappear too soon. Let the beef go slow until it gives. When the breadfruit edges round off and the stew turns glossy and thick, that's the bowl. Eat it with rice if that's how your house does it, or with poi if the table is leaning older. Either way, feed the people first.
Breadfruit is one of the great Polynesian canoe crops, carried and cultivated across the Triangle as ʻulu in Hawaiʻi, ʻuru in Tahiti, and by cousin names across Sāmoa, Tonga, the Cook Islands, and beyond. In Hawaiʻi, fresh ʻulu has come forward again through growers and groups like the Hawaiʻi ʻUlu Cooperative, not as a museum food but as a sovereignty staple that can stand in for imported starches. Beef stew itself is a post-contact local dish, shaped by ranching and plantation-era home cooking, so this pot shows the honest Hawaiian table: deep food and everyday food feeding the same family.
Quantity
2 1/2 pounds
cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
Quantity
2 teaspoons
or coarse sea salt, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/3 cup
for dusting
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (14.5 ounces)
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
3
cut into thick chunks
Quantity
2
sliced thick
Quantity
1 1/2 to 2 pounds
peeled, cored, and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
Quantity
1 cup
as needed
Quantity
2
thinly sliced
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef chuckcut into 1 1/2-inch pieces | 2 1/2 pounds |
| paʻakai ʻalaea (Hawaiian red sea salt)or coarse sea salt, plus more to taste | 2 teaspoons |
| black pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| all-purpose flourfor dusting | 1/3 cup |
| neutral oil | 3 tablespoons |
| onionchopped | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce | 1 can (14.5 ounces) |
| beef stock | 4 cups |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| carrotscut into thick chunks | 3 |
| celery ribssliced thick | 2 |
| firm mature ʻulu (breadfruit)peeled, cored, and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks | 1 1/2 to 2 pounds |
| water or additional stockas needed | 1 cup |
| green onions (optional)thinly sliced | 2 |
Pat the beef dry, then season it with paʻakai ʻalaea, the Hawaiian red sea salt, and black pepper. Dust lightly with flour and shake off the extra. The flour is not there to make a crust like fancy restaurant work; it helps the gravy catch and cling later.
Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the beef in batches, giving each piece space so it darkens instead of sweating in the pot. You want deep brown spots on the meat and a sticky dark fond on the bottom, because that is where the stew starts talking.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the onion and cook until it softens and picks up the browned bits, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic for 30 seconds, then the tomato paste, and cook until the paste darkens a shade and smells sweet, not raw.
Return the beef and its juices to the pot. Add the crushed tomatoes, beef stock, Worcestershire, and bay leaves, scraping the bottom clean. Bring it to a gentle boil, then drop it to a low simmer, cover partly, and cook 1 1/2 hours, until the beef is starting to give but is not falling apart yet.
Add the carrots, celery, and chunks of ʻulu. Keep the breadfruit pieces big, because the edges will soften and thicken the stew while the centers stay tender. Add a little water or stock if the pot looks tight; the liquid should come most of the way up the meat and ʻulu, not drown them.
Cover partly and simmer 45 to 60 minutes more, stirring gently now and then, until the beef pulls apart with a spoon and the ʻulu is creamy all the way through. If a few pieces break down into the gravy, let them. That's the canoe crop doing its work. No blame the ʻulu.
Pull out the bay leaves, taste for salt, and let the stew rest off the heat for 10 minutes so the gravy settles glossy and thick. Scatter green onion if you like, then serve in deep bowls with rice, poi, or just more ʻulu. This is comfort food, so feed heavy and send somebody home with a container.
1 serving (about 500g)
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Chef Makoa
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