
Chef Makoa
Baked ʻUlu Coconut Pudding (Hawaiian Ripe Breadfruit Custard)
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.
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Cooked ʻulu pounded soft and folded with fresh peʻepeʻe, the coconut cream that gives Sāmoan taufolo its shine. A western-islands canoe crop, humble and rich.
The canoe carried more than people. It carried relatives. In Sāmoa, ʻulu, the breadfruit, is one of those old relatives, a canoe crop that fed the aiga, the family, from the yard tree before rice and flour ever became everyday. Taufolo belongs to Sāmoa: cooked ʻulu pounded soft, then folded with peʻepeʻe, fresh coconut cream, until it turns rich and silky in the bowl.
This is my cousins' dish, not mine from home, so I cook it open-handed. Back in Hawaiʻi we know ʻulu too, and Tahiti has ʻuru, the Marquesas and the Cooks keep their own breadfruit names and ways, and the atoll people know how to preserve breadfruit when the soil is only coral and the season is thin. One ocean, one canoe, one root stock, but not one nameless plate. This one is Sāmoan.
The pounding matters because it changes the food under your hands. At first the breadfruit breaks rough and dry, then the warm coconut cream loosens it, and all at once the mash starts to shine. That's when you stop forcing it. Eat what you have, yeah? If fresh coconut is there, squeeze it. If a good can is what your kitchen has today, use it and feed the people. The point is not to make the food precious. The point is to keep the relationship alive.
Breadfruit was one of the great Polynesian canoe crops, carried and replanted across the Triangle from Sāmoa and Tonga east toward Tahiti, the Cook Islands, Hawaiʻi, and Rapa Nui, where each island developed its own names, preservation methods, and table uses. In Sāmoa, fresh cooked ʻulu sits beside the umu and the Sunday toʻonaʻi, while dishes like taufolo show the western islands' deep grammar of pounding starch and enriching it with coconut cream. Fermented breadfruit traditions such as popoi and masi belong to the keeping-foods side of the old knowledge; this taufolo is the fresh cooked table, immediate, soft, and shared.
Quantity
1 large (3 to 4 pounds)
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
plus more as needed
Quantity
1/2 to 1 teaspoon
to taste
Quantity
1 to 2 tablespoons
for a lightly sweet table style
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mature green breadfruit (ʻulu) | 1 large (3 to 4 pounds) |
| fresh coconut cream (peʻepeʻe)plus more as needed | 1 1/2 cups |
| sea saltto taste | 1/2 to 1 teaspoon |
| raw sugar (optional)for a lightly sweet table style | 1 to 2 tablespoons |
Pick a mature green ʻulu, the breadfruit, with firm skin and no sour smell. A few brown sap marks are fine. The flesh should be starchy, not sweet and custardy yet, because taufolo wants a root-like body that can take the pounding and drink the coconut cream.
Cut the breadfruit into quarters, trim out the core, and steam or simmer it with the skin on for 35 to 45 minutes, until a knife slides through without a fight. Don't rush this. If the center is still tight, the mash will stay lumpy and dry. No blame the ʻulu. Give it the time.
When it is cool enough to handle, pull off the skin and any hard bits near the core. Put the hot breadfruit in a heavy bowl or on a clean board and pound or mash it while it is still warm, working slow, until it gathers into a thick, smooth mass with only small soft flecks left.
Warm the peʻepeʻe, the coconut cream, just until loose, then fold it into the pounded ʻulu a little at a time. The mash should turn pale cream-gold, glossy, and heavy, soft enough to spoon but thick enough to hold its shape. Add salt, and add the sugar only if that is the table you are feeding.
Spoon the taufolo into a wooden bowl or onto banana leaf and smooth the top with the back of the spoon. Finish with a small gloss of coconut cream if it wants it. Serve warm or room temperature beside umu food, palusami, grilled fish, or the everyday plate with rice and pisupo. Deep food can sit right next to today's food. That's how the islands actually eat.
1 serving (about 255g)
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Chef Makoa
Very ripe Hawaiian ʻulu, the canoe-crop breadfruit, mashed soft with coconut milk and sugar, then baked until the middle sets like a quiet custard.

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