
Chef Takumi
Akadashi (赤だし, Nagoya red-miso soup)
Akadashi asks you to trust the dark miso. Build a clear dashi, loosen the Hatchō mame-miso gently, and the soup turns coffee-dark, savory, and clean.
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Kyoto white miso makes a pale, sweet soup that asks for restraint: clear dashi, tender new potato, and the discipline to stir the miso in off the heat.
White miso looks too gentle to make a proper soup. That is its strength. Saikyō miso is pale, sweet, and low in salt, fermented with more rice koji than the darker misos, so it doesn't bully the bowl. It carries new potatoes in early summer or kabocha when the cold comes, letting the season speak without asking a sauce to do the talking.
The first secret is not the miso, oddly enough. It's the dashi beneath it. Steep konbu slowly and lift it before the water boils, because boiled kelp gives bitterness and a slick edge. Let katsuobushi fall through hot water off the heat, then strain without squeezing, because squeezing presses out the heavy, oily taste. A clear stock makes the sweet miso taste round instead of sugary.
Then take the pot off the heat. Dissolve the miso in a ladle or small bowl and ease it back into the soup. Boil it and the fragrance flattens, the gentle rice sweetness goes dull, and you wonder why Kyoto made such a fuss. Don't let the soup roar at you. It should only quiver, pale and calm, with tender vegetables underneath. This is honmono made in a weeknight pot: one good stock, one good miso, nothing hidden.
Saikyō miso is the sweet white miso associated with Kyoto; the name took hold after the imperial court moved east in the Meiji era and Kyoto was called Saikyō, the western capital. Its low salt and high rice koji ratio fit Kyoto cooking especially well in shiro miso ozōni, the New Year soup in which a white miso broth holds round mochi. Unlike long-aged red miso, it is fermented briefly and prized for pale color, sweetness, and fragrance rather than sharpness.
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1 piece (about 10g)
Quantity
20g
Quantity
450g
scrubbed and halved or quartered
Quantity
1 small
cut into thin half-moons
Quantity
1/2 cup (about 130g)
Quantity
4 small
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cold water | 4 cups |
| konbu (dried kelp) | 1 piece (about 10g) |
| katsuobushi (bonito flakes) | 20g |
| small new potatoesscrubbed and halved or quartered | 450g |
| carrotcut into thin half-moons | 1 small |
| Saikyō white miso | 1/2 cup (about 130g) |
| mitsuba sprigs or kinome leaves (optional) | 4 small |
Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth, but don't wash it. The pale dust on the surface is not dirt, it's flavor. Put the konbu in the cold water and warm it slowly over low heat, about ten minutes, until the water trembles and small bubbles climb the sides. Lift the konbu out before the water boils, because boiling pulls out bitterness and a slippery edge you don't want in this gentle soup.
Bring the water just to a gentle boil after the konbu is out. Add the katsuobushi all at once, take the pot off the heat, and leave it alone for two to three minutes. The flakes will darken and sink as they give up their flavor. Don't stir. Stirring roughs up the stock and pulls out a stronger taste than this soup needs.
Strain the dashi through a fine-mesh strainer lined with a clean cloth. Let it drip by itself. Don't squeeze the flakes, tempting as it is, because squeezing presses out oily, heavy flavors and clouds the stock. You want a clear base so the white miso can stay soft and clean.
Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water, then drain them well. This washes away loose surface starch so the soup doesn't turn gluey. Cut the carrot thinly so it cooks quickly and gives a little color without taking over the bowl.
Return the dashi to the pot and add the potatoes. Simmer gently, not hard, until a skewer slips in with only slight resistance, about ten to twelve minutes. Add the carrot for the last four minutes. A quiet simmer keeps the potatoes whole and lets the dashi stay clear enough to support the miso.
Turn off the heat. Put the Saikyō miso in a small bowl, ladle in a little hot dashi, and stir until smooth, then ease it back into the pot. A miso-koshi does the same work neatly. White miso is gentle but dense, and if you drop it straight into the pot it hides in little lumps. Boil it and its fragrance fades.
Set the pot over low heat only until the surface quivers. Do not let it boil. Taste once: Saikyō miso should be round and sweet, with enough salt to carry the potatoes but no sharpness. Ladle into warmed bowls, setting the potatoes slightly to one side, and finish each bowl with mitsuba or kinome. Serve at once, while the miso is still lively.
1 serving (about 365g)
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