
Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.
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Lapis means layers, and here the word does honest work: thin beef tucked through sweet ketjap, nutmeg, clove, and tamarind, the Indo-Dutch rice table reduced to one patient braadpan.
The first time I understood how Dutch a pot of ketjap beef could be, I was in the Leiden stacks, not in a kitchen. There, between schoolbook recipes for hachee and brown-speckled Indies cookbooks, the Netherlands stopped pretending its table ended at the North Sea. Nutmeg, clove, coriander, ketjap manis, beef sliced thin because tenderness costs less when patience does the work: exuberant cookery in a frugal country, again, only the route ran through Java.
But let me tell you a secret. Lapis daging is a dish that corrects the map. In Indonesian, lapis means layer and daging means meat, and the name is almost an instruction: slice, stack, coat, wait. This is not the Latin lapis, stone, though a bad braise can become one, for obvious reasons. It belongs to the Indo-Dutch rijsttafel, the rice table, where Dutch service met Indonesian kitchens under the complicated roof of empire.
What I want from you is restraint. Brown nothing heroically, scorch no bumbu, the spice paste, and don't drown the beef. Fry the paste until it smells cooked and sweet, then let thin slices surrender slowly in ketjap, tamarind, nutmeg, and clove until the sauce clings like lacquer. Hou het altijd simpel. Serve it with plain rice and something sharp at the side, because the dish has already done the speaking.
Lapis daging belongs to the Indo-Dutch rijsttafel tradition that grew in nineteenth and early twentieth-century colonial households, hotels, and official kitchens in the Dutch East Indies. Bogor, then Buitenzorg, was the governor-general's country seat from the eighteenth century, and its kitchens helped shape the style of rice-table dishes Dutch families later carried back to the Netherlands after Indonesian independence. Early twentieth-century Dutch-Indies cookbooks, including Catenius-van der Meijden's Groot Nieuw Volledig Oost-Indisch Kookboek of 1902, record this household language of sliced meat, spice paste, ketjap, and patient braising.
Quantity
1kg
cut across the grain into 5mm slices
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
30g
Quantity
8
roughly chopped
Quantity
4
roughly chopped
Quantity
4
toasted
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
3cm piece
bruised
Quantity
2 salam leaves or 1 bay leaf
Quantity
1
bruised
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
2 teaspoons
dissolved in 3 tablespoons warm water
Quantity
300ml
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef runderlappen, topside, or silversidecut across the grain into 5mm slices | 1kg |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| butter | 30g |
| shallotsroughly chopped | 8 |
| garlic clovesroughly chopped | 4 |
| candlenuts or unsalted macadamia nutstoasted | 4 |
| ground coriander | 1 tablespoon |
| ground white pepper | 1 teaspoon |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground cloves | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh galangalbruised | 3cm piece |
| Indonesian salam leaves or bay leaf | 2 salam leaves or 1 bay leaf |
| lemongrass stalkbruised | 1 |
| ketjap manis | 150ml |
| tamarind pastedissolved in 3 tablespoons warm water | 2 teaspoons |
| water or light beef stock | 300ml |
| palm sugar (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| bawang goreng (fried shallots) (optional) | to serve |
| plain steamed rice, cucumber, and sambal | to serve |
Cut the beef across the grain into slices about 5mm thick, then flatten any thick edges with a rolling pin or meat mallet. Salt the slices lightly and let them sit while you make the bumbu. Lapis means layer; if the meat is cut into hunks, the name has already lost its argument.
Grind the shallots, garlic, candlenuts, coriander, white pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and 2 tablespoons of water to a thick paste. A mortar gives you the best texture, but a small food processor is no sin. The paste can be a little rough; raw chunks of shallot and garlic are what you must avoid.
Heat the oil and butter in a heavy braadpan, a Dutch casserole, over medium heat. Add the bumbu and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the raw onion smell has gone sweet and the fat shines at the edges. Add the galangal, salam leaves, and lemongrass for the last minute. Hurry this and the sauce will taste dusty behind the ketjap.
Add the beef slices a few at a time, turning them through the cooked paste so every surface is coated, then settle them into loose layers in the pan. Pour in the ketjap manis, tamarind water, and water or stock down the side of the pan. The liquid should come about halfway up the meat, not cover it like soup. Bring it only to a quiet bubble.
Cover the pan and cook over low heat for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, turning the slices gently every half hour. Add a splash of water if the bottom threatens to dry. The beef is ready when a slice bends over a spoon and parts at the edge with a fork. If the pan is boiling hard, turn it down; tough meat is often impatience wearing an apron.
Uncover the pan and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes until the sauce is dark, glossy, and clings to the beef in a thin coat. Remove the galangal, salam leaves, and lemongrass. Taste for salt, sweetness, and sourness; add the palm sugar only if your ketjap is thin or sharp. Rest the beef for 15 minutes before serving with rice, cucumber, sambal, and a little bawang goreng.
1 serving (about 460g)
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Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.

Chef Joost
The old Dutch spelling says ajam, the city says Batavia, and the pot says exactly what the rijsttafel always was: memory, trade, and dinner in one dish.

Chef Joost
The name means simply fried chicken, but the Dutch spelling carries a whole Indies kitchen: turmeric, coriander, garlic, and a golden crust that remembers the boemboe.

Chef Joost
Ajam is the old Dutch spelling of ayam, chicken, and opor is the pale coconut braise that lets a rijsttafel breathe between its darker, hotter dishes.