
Chef Klaus
Aachener Printen
Aachen's Advent biscuit is dark, hard, and spiced, with beet syrup doing the deep work and a closed tin finishing what the oven only starts.
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Frankfurt's Advent marzipan ball is small, pale gold, and exacting: real almond paste, rosewater, three almond halves pressed on firmly, then a short bake for gloss.
Bethmännchen belong to Frankfurt and to Advent, the season when the German sweet table fills its tins with Plätzchen, Christmas cookies, and almond things that keep. This is Hesse, not Bavaria. Das ist kein Bierzelt. In the north, marzipan leans toward Lübeck blocks and potatoes dusted with cocoa; in Saxony and Swabia the tin may argue for Stollen, Springerle, or Zimtsterne. Frankfurt sets down these little marzipan balls with three almond halves like a signature.
I make them from good marzipan, ground almonds, icing sugar, egg white, and rosewater. Nicht aus dem Glas, and not a cheap almond-flavoured paste that tastes of perfume and regret. The larder logic is simple: almonds, sugar, and a little rosewater keep well, so Advent baking could start before the house was full and still taste fresh when the tin opened.
The technique is the almond halves. Press them deep enough that they bite into the marzipan, then chill the shaped balls before the yolk goes on. Warm marzipan slumps in the oven and throws the almonds off; cold marzipan holds the shape while the outside sets. Brush with egg yolk thinned with milk, not a wet wash, because you want a lacquered pale-gold skin, not scrambled yellow patches.
Bake them gently and pull them while they're still soft at the centre. They firm as they cool. Overbake a Bethmännchen and you've made an expensive almond pebble. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Bethmännchen are tied to the Frankfurt banking family Bethmann and are commonly dated to 1838, when the family's French pastry cook Jean Jacques Gautenier is said to have made them for Simon Moritz von Bethmann's household. The three almond halves carry the best-known story: the sweets once had four, one for each Bethmann son, and after Heinrich Bethmann died in 1845 the fourth almond was left off. Whatever the legend smooths over, the pastry remains a Frankfurt Advent marker, distinct from the northern marzipan centers of Lübeck and Königsberg.
Quantity
400g
at least 50% almonds
Quantity
120g
Quantity
90g
sifted
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
96
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| good marzipan pasteat least 50% almonds | 400g |
| ground blanched almonds | 120g |
| icing sugarsifted | 90g |
| egg white | 1 |
| rosewater | 1 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| blanched almond halves | 96 |
| egg yolk | 1 |
| milk | 1 teaspoon |
Tear the marzipan into small pieces, then knead it with the ground almonds, sifted icing sugar, egg white, rosewater, and salt until the dough is smooth and only lightly sticky. The extra ground almonds stiffen the paste so it bakes as a ball, not a puddle; the salt keeps all that almond and sugar from tasting flat.
Wrap the almond dough and chill it for 20 minutes. Cold marzipan rolls cleanly and takes the almond halves without smearing; warm marzipan sticks to your hands, and then you add more sugar than the dough needs. Das braucht seine Zeit, even here.
Line a baking sheet with parchment and heat the oven to 160C. Roll the chilled paste into 32 balls, about 18 to 20g each, and set them apart on the sheet. Keep them even so the small ones don't dry out before the larger ones have coloured.
Press three blanched almond halves upright around each ball, curved side out, pushing them deep enough to grip the paste. This is the step that decides the pastry. If the almonds only sit on the surface, the oven loosens them and they fall away; pressed in properly, they anchor the Bethmännchen and give the old Frankfurt shape.
Beat the egg yolk with the milk and brush the tops and almond edges thinly. Thinly means thinly. A heavy glaze runs into the base and bakes blotchy, while a light coat gives the pale-gold shine without hiding the almond.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the tops are glossy pale gold and the almond edges just begin to colour. Do not chase brown. Bethmännchen should stay soft in the centre, and they firm as they cool on the tray.
Leave the Bethmännchen on the tray for 10 minutes, then move them to a rack until fully cool. Pack them in a tin with parchment between layers; the almond paste settles after a day and the rosewater rounds out. Weggeworfen wird nichts: broken ones go into the cook's coffee saucer.
1 serving (about 23g)
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