
Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.
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Babi pangang means roasted pork, but in the Netherlands it also means the Chinees-Indisch table: crisp-edged pork, red sweet-sour sauce, and colonial history served in a white takeaway tray.
The name already tells you the first truth, if you let it speak in the right language. Babi is pork in Malay and Indonesian, panggang is roasted or grilled, and there you have the plain grammar of the dish before the Dutch got involved. Plain grammar, never plain history.
But let me tell you a secret. The babi pangang most Dutch people know is not simply an Indonesian dish copied into Dutch kitchens. It is a Chinees-Indisch restaurant dish, born from migration, colonial memory, and practical restaurant genius: pork roasted until the edges catch, sliced, and served with a glossy red sweet-sour sauce that no Batak grandmother in Sumatra needed but every Dutch child learned to recognise from the takeaway counter. History and cookery, they cannot be separated, even when they arrive in a foil tray with kroepoek tucked beside them.
So we cook it honestly. The pork needs salt, five-spice, garlic, and time; the sauce needs tomato, vinegar, sugar, ginger, and restraint. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple. Roast the meat ahead, let it cool enough to slice cleanly, then crisp it hard and fast before serving. The sauce goes alongside or over, depending on the household argument. I put it partly over and partly beside, for obvious reasons: peace at the table.
Babi pangang takes its name from Indonesian and Malay, where babi means pig or pork and panggang means roasted or grilled, and related pork dishes are especially associated with non-Muslim communities in Indonesia, including Batak, Balinese, and Chinese-Indonesian cooks. The Dutch version developed after the Second World War in the Chinees-Indisch restaurants that spread across the Netherlands, run largely by Chinese restaurateurs who adapted Indonesian and Cantonese cooking to Dutch expectations. Its bright sweet-sour tomato sauce is part of that Dutch restaurant evolution, making the dish less a direct import than a record of colonial return, migration, and the Dutch habit of adopting a taste until it feels like home.
Quantity
900g
in one piece
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2
grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1
finely grated
Quantity
2
minced
Quantity
2 teaspoons
grated
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
75ml
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
to serve
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork shoulder or pork belly, skin removedin one piece | 900g |
| fine sea salt | 2 teaspoons |
| light soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| sunflower oil | 1 tablespoon |
| garlic clovesgrated | 2 |
| Chinese five-spice powder | 1 teaspoon |
| ground coriander | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| sunflower oil for crisping | 2 tablespoons |
| small onionfinely grated | 1 |
| garlic clovesminced | 2 |
| fresh gingergrated | 2 teaspoons |
| passata or smooth tomato purée | 200ml |
| water | 75ml |
| rice vinegar or mild white vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| sugar | 3 tablespoons |
| light soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| ketjap manis | 1 tablespoon |
| sambal oelek (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| potato starch or cornstarch | 1 teaspoon |
| cold water | 1 tablespoon |
| cooked white rice | to serve |
| atjar tjampoer (optional) | to serve |
Pat the pork very dry. Mix the salt, soy sauce, oil, grated garlic, five-spice, coriander, and white pepper into a paste, then rub it all over the meat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight if you can. Time is doing quiet work here: salt seasons the centre, and the surface dries enough to brown properly.
Heat the oven to 180C. Set the pork on a rack over a roasting tin and roast for 55 to 70 minutes, until the centre reaches 72C and the outside is deep brown in patches. Rest it for 20 minutes. If you slice too soon, the juices run onto the board instead of staying where you paid for them.
While the pork rests, put a small saucepan over medium heat with the grated onion, garlic, ginger, passata, water, vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, ketjap manis, and sambal. Simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the raw onion smell is gone and the sauce tastes bright rather than sharp.
Stir the potato starch with the cold water, then whisk it into the simmering sauce. Let it bubble for 1 minute until glossy and just thick enough to coat a spoon. Don't make pudding of it; the sauce should run around the pork, not sit on it like paint.
Slice the rested pork into pieces about 1cm thick. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat and fry the slices in a single layer until the edges are crisp and browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side. This last pan is where the Dutch takeaway memory happens: roasted meat becoming something sharper, darker, and more eager under the teeth.
Spoon a little sauce onto a warm serving plate, lay the crisp pork over it, and pour more sauce across the centre, leaving some edges bare. Serve with white rice and atjar tjampoer, the sweet-sour pickled vegetables that keep the richness in line. Put extra sauce on the table, because somebody will ask, and they will be right.
1 serving (about 470g)
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Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.

Chef Joost
The old Dutch spelling says ajam, the city says Batavia, and the pot says exactly what the rijsttafel always was: memory, trade, and dinner in one dish.

Chef Joost
The name means simply fried chicken, but the Dutch spelling carries a whole Indies kitchen: turmeric, coriander, garlic, and a golden crust that remembers the boemboe.

Chef Joost
Ajam is the old Dutch spelling of ayam, chicken, and opor is the pale coconut braise that lets a rijsttafel breathe between its darker, hotter dishes.